New 120G AGA Build (Rock is in, ready to stock !)

S

sublime-1

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So,

In true DFWMAS fashion I am starting my own lil build thread.

Seems like anyone who's ANYone has a build thread from 90G all the way up to 400+.

So, here are the first few shots of me getting my 120G into place. I am waiting on delivery of my Loc-Line from MarineDepot so I can put the returns in place, and voila, I'll be ready to put my transition from my 90 into action.

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not sure if you have the space for it but I recommend using drain fittings on your drain lines. the larger sweeps and lateral connections will allow water to flow faster and quieter.

looking good - keep the pics coming
 
Psteele.


You mean drain fittings as in P-Trap type piping for under-sinks ?

I didn't know if the threads would match up on the bulkheads so I just cemented 1" thin wall into the bulkheads and dry fitted everything together.

I have to go by the home depot tonight for an additional 1" Ball valve, and some 45' PVC fittings so maybe I'll pick up a few parts and try some stuff out before I settle on a final design and glue it all up.
 
The elbows have longer bends to allow the water to flow smoother. they are usually kept seperate from the normal PVC fittings that are designed for pressure pipe (or supply lines). The drain fittings may start at 1 1/2".

I'm including a picture of my plumbing taken from a tour last year - the line on top is my main drain - it slopes right to left. on the right you will see a lateral fitting that supplies my fuge, flow is controled by a ball valve. On the far left where the two drains tie, you can see a lateral cross designed to drain two feeds into a single drop.
 
I C, said the blind man.


Interesting possiblities.

So no running water sounds ? Seems like it would gush like a sewer drain all the time.


I know just where those type fittings are in HD. They're on the same aisle, further down. And I think you're right, they do start at about 2".

So does your tank have 1" bulkheads for drains ? Did you just reduce the 2" to 1" where it connects to the tank ?


BD
 
my drain is 1 1/2" all the way from the durso's, bulkheads and into the sump / fuge

if you have 1" bulkheads and if you have the space you may want to run the 1 1/2" drain piping just to help on flow and cut back on the gurgling

the only place my tank makes noise is where the drian enters the sump under water. I plan on revising this by adding a plastic box or large piece of pipe filled with live rock rubble to help break up the flow
 
Brad,

You probably have done this already but in case it slipped your mind, don't forget the anti-siphon holes. Some incorporate them in the durso's, others choose the return line. I chose to extend my return line plumbing a few inches beyond the overflow box and drill one in my return so that I can have a cheap way of getting flow back behind my rockwork. :lol:

Cheers,
 
Thanks Bimmerz.

I had not drilled the anti-siphons in the Durso's yet. I was going to wait a little longer for the cement to cure.

I planned on putting 2 AS holes in each durso elbow. I was still considering swapping out the elbows, for street-ells but I figured what the hell, I already had them dry fitted and I still had space for the returns so I just left the elbows in place.

I am going to drill the caps and the siphon holes at the same time. I figured I wouldn't get it to "final" as I wanna do a wet test of the whole system with tap water before I get too far along. Need to check flow, etc and probably will be better to do it without waiting 4 days for my RO to pump out enough new water.


Wellp, headed to the depot to pick up a few last minute things and then I'll be lifting the tank, installing my pink foam board underneath, cutting out holes for the plumbing and cementing all the plumbing in place tonight.


LOL. I can't wait for my LocLine to get here this week from MarineDepot so I can fire this sucker up.



So far the setup is going to look like this.


120G AGA ReefReady (48" x 24" x 24")
Mag 9.5 Return Pump (external)
ETSS Reef Devil w/ Mag 7
40G Ecosystem sump
48" Outer orbit 2 x 150W DE Metal Halide and 2 x 130W Actinic PC
Aquacontroller Jr. w/ PH and Temp (w/ DC8 for power distribution)
2x SEIO 620 Powerheads and MJ1200 for supplemental flow.

From my 90 DAS:
140+ lbs. of Tongan and Fijian Live Rock
120 lbs. of Live Sand (mix of white caribsea and pink arag.)
One big carpet of GSP
baby feather dusters
40+ reef hermits (red and blue legged)
10 black turbos
2 giant turbos
2 x Peppermint Shrimp
1 x Cleaner Shrimp

Soon to be evicted:
2 x 1-1/2" Angry little yellow tail damsels
(named them Ike and Tina, cuz they always fight.)

Still needed.

a better skimmer
phosban reactor for active carbon
replacement carts for my RO.

Brad
 
Okay,


So I am getting REALLY anxious now.

I got my shipment of loc-line, and my PH probe yesterday so now my AC jr. is all ready to rock, and my plumbing is completely dry-fit and ready to glue up permanently.

I have chosen to stay with the original plumbing dimensions after much conversation, I decided the flow will be more than adequate from a drain/return perspective.


I am dealing with one tiny issue, I am hoping someone can offer some insight.

LOC LINE INSTALLED
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DURSOS AND RETURN INSTALLED
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FINAL DRY FIT OF PLUMBING

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RETURN PUMP PLUMBING EXTERNALLY

Ok, this is where my little issue is. I found that I have barely enough space (down to 1/4") to fit my return pump next to my sump, and still make it line up with my return piping. I decided to use a small 2" clear vinyl connection from the pump to the sump, just for maintainability sake. I have the main return output adapted to the pump with a 3/4" female adapter, and into a run of PVC into the ball valve.

However, in order to have space between the pump inlet, and the sump output, I have had to trim the threads and the barbs, so that there would be enough space in between for a short section of vinyl, and stainless clamps.

Can anyone think of a better way that doesn't involve me going out and hunting for a different type of bulkhead, or running my pump internally ?

I know that the heat contribution from the pump will be reduced to some degree by running it externally, and this is what I am hoping to obtain by running it externally. Also, it just seems a cleaner install if I hook it up external, as it's one less thing inside the sump to potentially torch my tank with voltage leak, or otherwise hard failure that may crash it.

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Again, any advice is welcome. As soon as I put in the pink foam under the tank, and get it shoved back against the wall, I am going to solvent up the PVC, and let it sit while I pump RO into the tank from my RODI system.


Brad
 
What IF!
On your return pump you came out of the fuge with a elbow or two 45's that way your return pump will be sideways right next to fuge. For your water change valve senario on my 115gl tank a 15 gallon water change is at least 2" below the over flow so draining from the overflow the fuge pump would have to return quite a bit to keep the overflow overflowing.
 
@Hankzilla wrote:
What IF! For your water change valve senario on my 115gl tank a 15 gallon water change is at least 2" below the over flow so draining from the overflow the fuge pump would have to return quite a bit to keep the overflow overflowing. said:
I thought of the same thing...
Would it be better to T off the return, so you remove water coming from the sump instead!?

Just a thought...
Click to expand...
 
I have a feeling you're not going to be happy with that plumbing configuration. Those hosebarb connections reduce the ID (smaller hole) thus restricting what the pump can suck in. Is that a Mag 12?

What size plumbing is going up from the pump? 3/4" or 1"?

My personal preference is to connect the union right at the pump instead of up higher as is in your pictures.

The water change system works only if you are pulling out a small amount of water. If it is coming from the return plumbing, it will only pump what is in the return (or final) section of the sump.
 
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