Hoopsdaddy's 8 foot built-in w/tank room

I'd say bigger is better. 75g as a hospital / qt tank would be awesome, allowing more stability with the increased water volume. Water changes and hyposalinity would be a bit more difficult in a 75 (more volume again), but less chances of toxic ammonia and nitrites building up before your test kits reflect it. And you could QT more fish at a time, or larger fish.
 
@hoopsdaddy wrote:
I see that most people that have tanks my size use a 40g-55g tank as a hospital. What are your thoughts? Need some help here. I could use the 75g for the sump said:
I am OCD about QT and currently run a BC14 for coral/invert QT and a 26b for fish QT. I would recommend multiple smaller QTs over one big one. The reason for going smaller is having a smaller water volume to medicate. Medicating a 75g tank for a single fish would get REALLY expensive. Having 2 separate fish QT sections keeps you from having to wait for QT to be available, or re-start the clock. I can't tell you how many times there has been a fish in the classifieds that i wanted to buy but my QT was in use. My ideal long term solution will be a custom tank with 2 separate 20g sections for fish and 2 10g sections for inverts/corals, each drilled for a drain in the bottom. I'm not sure if you plan on it being just for hospital use and not QT, but I think the principles still apply.

Another thing to think about is water volume as it compares to the common medication dosages. I am currently treating a fish with Maracyn-Two. It has powder packets, and calls for 2 packets per 20g on day one and 1 packet per 20g on days 2-5. I dropped the level of my 26g down to 20 to make it work. If I was trying to treat a 10g tank, I would be adding half a packet on days 2-5 which would be a PITA to measure and divide the medications.
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I agree with Ashlar but do see a point with what Titus has to say. One thing that you have to look at is what are your fish plans? With a tank this size I would think that you will at least have a couple of tangs and a tang in a 20 gallon breeder QT would probably hurt it more than help. Also, from my experiences the tangs are always the first to get sick!! If you are not planning on having big fish or fish that need a bunch of "leg" room then I think the two tank method would be better. Heck maybe even a big and small QT??

And I agree with you about the sheetrock work it sux..esp the sanding part!!
 
Hey. Looks like everything's looking pretty good. I like your tank with the one overflow. Lots of room. Subscribing.
 
Man I went through this decision process not too long ago. I think everyone has some good points, so my suggestion is do it all [smilie=lol.gif]

A larger QT would be great for larger sized fish and tangs. My QT is only a 40B so I limited myself to only picking up smaller sized tangs. It is also only a QT, as in if I had to move a full size tang over, that wouldn't work because of the fish size compared to the tank. A true hospital tank for me would be closer to a long 75g or 120g but I just can't do that from a practical standpoint with the way the house is right now. If you can have a larger QT/Hospital tank, I'd go for it.

On the other hand, I don't plan on adding many more fish so I won't need the QT for other fish once the current batch is released and once I get one more fish through there. I'll just be using it for corals and inverts from that point forward. In a way, slowing down acquisitions has been a good thing so my main tank has time to mature and adjust to new bioloads. On other other hand, it would have been nice to be able to get all the fish I wanted at once and let everyone go through QT at the same time to minimize chances of fighting in the display tank.

The smaller 40B or 55, however, would be easier on hypo treatments, medications, and large water changes needed for many treatments. I've just recently completed hypo treatment in a 40B but did not go the bare-bottom route and have had good success with maintaining water parameters and just posted something on this yesterday over at Reef Addicts which Marc has now archived as an article:

http://www.reefaddicts.com/content.php/372-My-Reef-Friendly-Quarantine-System

If I had my druthers and could do whatever I wanted, I'd have a dedicated 120g QT/hospital tank dedicated to fish and another 40B setup just for QT of corals and other inverts.
 
This tread prompted me to calculate out the cost of a complete cycle of treatments for each of the various meds I keep on my shelf.
Each price listed is for a complete recommended treatment cycle, per 20 gallons of water.

Mardel QuICK Cure- $0.10
Seachem Cupramine- $0.40
PraziPro- $0.65
Mardel Maracyn-One- $5.00
Mardel Maracyn-Two- $5.00

So. it looks like the things you would use for prophylactic treatments in a QT tank are not even as expensive as the salt used to fill the tank, but when it comes to treating an infection, the price would rise quickly for a large tank.
 
[smilie=shake.gif] WOW, I you all have given me some great things to think about and mull over in my head.

Ashlar, I was kind of thinking along the same lines as you when I posted this question. A large QT so that I could monitor and treat fish before I place them in the display and less variables in parameters within this tank. My primary though for going with this size of a tank honestly was for three reasons.
ONE, I already got it. I have had this tank for a long time and it is currently empty. No reason not to do this when i have the space.
TWO, My plan is for this(display)to be a tank with tons of activity. I plan on numerous small fish for this tank with only 4-5 fish that get in the 6-8" range and I would like to add them "all at once". Wait, Wait...Don't scold me here, let me explain. For example, I would like at least a dozen anthias. I would like to buy them all at once, QT them together, and release them together into the main display. Then start the same process for another group of fish. I will have a few tangs, but mostly from the Ctenochaetus or Zebramosa families. I also want a pair of Bellus angels. I would like to do all my fish in groups when I release.
THREE, I would like to be able to treat and observe my fish in a manageable environment when I get them so that I can make sure they are healthy, eating, and disease free.

Titus, you have given me something to think about that I did not even consider. Cost and ease of use in the QT process. Thinking more on this today after I read your post has me wondering more about the ease of use than the actual cost. If I spend $250 on a dozen Lyretail Anthias, spending another $5-$20 on treatment if necessary won't really be an issue. But, ease of use will be. As with all things, if it is difficult to do it will be less likely to be done. If I go with the 75g, I will have to make ease of use a priority on this tank as well. It is and will always be a priority on my display build. Thought it was very cool that you took the time to break out the actual cost of doing the treatments though. That was awesome to know and interesting to see!

Mike,
Thanks for posting the link to your QT article on Reef Addicts. I will read it tonight, and I will give you some of my feedback once I am through. I appreciate how through you are with your information as well. There is not nearly enough of that in this hobby. As stated above my primary bio-load of fish will be made up of small to medium fish when they are full grown. With that said, I think the 75g would be plenty to house them. I will probably do the tank bare bottom, but I like the way you have done your tank and I will have the ability to do something like that as well. Hmmmm makes me think which would be the best. If my primary thought is to do mainly hypo then your setup would be much more realistic and easier to reproduce. If I us it as a QT and hospital tank, then it might be less than ideal. Interesting. I will read your article and think on this some more.

Pjracer,
Thanks for subscribing and I hope that along the way to get input from you about what is being done and also to hopefully give you some great ideas about ways to make your experience in this hobby better.

K RR, I think you have a great idea. I may do that in the long run. Have the 75g as a QT and then set up a 29g tank for an actual treatment tank if needed. Good idea.
Also, you are dead on with sanding sheet rock...... uggghhhh

Pictures will come shortly, but I do want to ask a question that may cause even more confusion..... [smilie=clapping.gif]
Why would you QT your corals? I always dip corals before intro into my current tank and have never brought in a hitchhiker. Am I missing something here. I also have never QT'd a snail or crab.......?????
 
A few picts of the progress,

Tank on the stand, but not fully in place yet. Won't happen till I am ready to cut out the wall.
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A little framework.
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A little sheet rock...
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Another shot, This one is from the nook where the counter top and cabinet are at. Guess I need to get a picture of that as well.
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Nice!!

re qt'ing corals / inverts..

Red bugs, AEFW, planaria flatworms, mojanos, aiptasia, bubble algae, ich (the cyst stage), isopods- all could be hitchhiking in on a coral frag or less frequently on an invert shell. Sure dips take care of a lot of it, but having a coral / invert qt where you can closely inspect them over a period of time, as well as acclimate them to tank life- still has a lot of value.
 
@Ashlar wrote:
Nice!! re qt'ing corals / inverts.. Red bugs said:
What he said... I have read more than one thread where someone had an ich outbreak even though every fish in the tank had gone through copper or hypo before going in, and the experts tended to agree that ich cysts must have hitchhiked in on a coral or a snail shell. A month in a fallow tank will cover that scenario and it gives you a chance to inspect it for anything else that might have hitched a ride.
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Oh, and regardless of the QT method you go with I think you will do well given the forethought and time and attention you are giving to the QT process.

Sent from my Samsung Galaxy SIII
 
Thanks for that info everyone. I will investigate this even more now. Thanks for the feedback on the build thread also.
 
Thanks for that info everyone. I will investigate this even more now. Thanks for the feedback on the build thread also.
 
Just found this thread and cant wait to see more.
A couple of suggestions for the fish room.
1- For HVAC you will need a plastic vent cover (Metal will rust over time) and I would suggest a non metal lead to your vent.
2- Humidity is addressed - not fully controlled - by a vent fan - I have mine controlled by apex and it is triggered by a humidity control device set at 55 percent - summer runs a lot, winter not much at all
3- On your stand - spray with bedliner type material and add some type of catch all that can hold approx. 1 gallon so very shallow that sump etc. will fit in. You then will have a waterproof setup and easily add water sensors inside the catch all - sort of like a AC overflow pan.
4- Make sure you build the front to have access as well. It helps for tank access as well as sump/overflow area access. All the reactors will add up...
Just my experiences in fish rooms...
 
What size return in the overflow section. I noticed you only have one overflow box. What is your plan for return flow. I would suggest drilling the tank before setup for a oceans motion closed loop run by a highly rated output pump and another for return. You could drill the holes on the bottom of the tank (assuming it is drillable) and place returns for closed loop there and have locline hidden by liverock and pointed in direction of need. You can then stay away from circulation pumps for your main flow and just pick up a couple of Tunze's to point where flow if needed. This is how I wish I would have set up mine originally and how I will do my next 10' in-wall.
 
Lance,
Thanks so much for some really great suggestions. I will implement several of them into the build. I really like the idea of the "tray" concept in the stand to catch a little water if a leak occurs and then have a sensor that monitors for leaks. I visited with the apex people at MACNA and I really liked the idea of being able to add a sensor that detects water leaks. As far as drains and returns. I have two 1.5" drains. I have been working with Pete Blair on my plumbing designs and he is tweaking my concept. I thought a lot about going closed loop, but I really decided in the end that I just didn't want to drill the tank any more than it already is. I think flow wise I will have some killer movement. We will see though.

BJ,
Thanks man, and I hope you and the family are doing great. Thanks also for the offer and I won't forget it.
 
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