Commercial frag tanks

Tray stand: http://www.ehydroponics.com/cap-grandstand-2x4-tray-stand.html?&cid=265 $113.00
Flood table: http://www.ehydroponics.com/botanicare-2-x-2-white-flood-table-2575-x-2575-x-7.html $58.50 or you can get it locally http://www.texashydroponics.com/shop/home.php $92.00
Lights Sun Blaze http://www.ehydroponics.com/sun-blaze-t5-48-comes-spectralux-bulbs.html?&cid=14 $171.00

Keep in mind Ehydro does not have free shipping so you are looking at around $40.00 each for the over sized tray and light. $35.00 for the stand.

Everything else is Home Depot/Lowes and/or Marinedepot.com or DNA if you are in a big hurry for the loc line return, bulk heads, pump etc.
Sump is a Petco $1 a gallon special Top Fin breeder.

Ehydro has the fast fit kit available at a good price too: http://www.ehydroponics.com/fast-fit-tray-stand-2-x-4.html
 
Light fixture hung and leveled out. Detailed imgur album here: http://imgur.com/a/UE0gn#14

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I added one of my bottles of pods to the fuge: viewtopic.php?f=13&t=104208
I also added a bit over 2 liters of live phyto to the tank for the pods: viewtopic.php?f=48&t=95423

I will add in some chaeto this friday.
Going to start dripping some mollies to convert them to salt and let them live/reproduce in the 40 gallon sump. Best fertilizer for soft corals is pure fish poop if you ask me!
 
Small CUC from reefs2go.com put in the sump. Mollys went in the sump.

Added the first few corals. Almost all of these are frags from corals in the other tanks. Not sure how much I trust this thing just yet.
I won't be TOOOO upset coral wise if the stuff in here doesn't make it.

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It looks pretty bare. I need those 200 tiles from DFW I guess! [smilie=lol.gif]
 
Algae and diatoms went into full bloom while I was away on vacation.
The salt Molly's are doing well however in the sump. I'm watching them court so all is well there.

Going to get the bulbs swapped out as soon as reef geeks actually ships.
I suspect I will have to scrub down the tray, egg crate, and plugs.

No REAL surprises since this was a brand new tank. Hopefully it cycles soon. I need the space.
 
I grew a LOT of algae while I was away on vacation. Not good. I have the whole tray soaking in the back yard right now.
I'm polishing out the 40 breeder a bit. I have a skimmer on it, but it pulls so little out of the water as to be almost useless.

I have my LED array that I purchased a while back ready to put onto the sump side of the tank this week.
I'm going to look at a Phosban/PhosGuard/GFO reactor. What I'm thinking is that the reactor should be slaved to the main display lights.
That way it it reducing any phosphate during the main lights and letting the macro absorb anything else during the dark period.

Give me 5 days or less. I will have it running again. I need the space. I would LOVE to duplicate it and have 16 square feet of coral space.
That sounds fun. :)

--H
 
You should run the gfo 24/7 I wouldn't let anything in a reef tank get stagnant. If you don't want gfo to take out too much nutrient then don't put a lot of gfo in the reactor. Put the gfo after the macro algae if you want macro to get majority of the nutrients


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That may be a good idea@ I could add the GFO reactor a the very end of the sump flow. Have to take a look at that. I was going to build a manifold sometime soon anyway off of the main return. The Rio I have in place is a bit over sized for the 40B tank.

@kuyatwo wrote:
 
Hi well this is my first post and I don't exactly belong here as I am in the upstate ny area and not dallas fort worth. However with that said I do have quite a large amount of experience with C.A.P. systems Flood and Drain tables being used for frag tanks I have 3- 4x8 stacked on top of each other. They work excellent however some key things for them is to remember they are made from abs plastic which does not seem to kill anything off however it does leach a certain amount of nastiness of phosphates amongst others. That makes green algae break outs ridiculous at the first cycle. Also certain egg crates from home depot will not help you there either they leach as well. I found that using lowes egg crate and I forget whose else I ordered from online one of the marine depoty websites did not have as bad of a leaching issue. All of my tanks are black ones for some reason the black colored versus the white don't promote as much algae growth as well as leach as much. In hydroponics they use a product called hygrozyme however unfortunately we in the aquatic realm can't use this product which is like a cure all for those totes and algae growth. So IMHO the best and only thing you can do in the cycle is I agree with the 24/7 GFO and Phosphate reactor also hold off on the egg crate addition as well. If you have any other questions please don't hesitate to ask or pm me I'd be more than happy to send you pictures or help in anyway you can also use MH if you'd like to by using a light rail you can buy these at your hydroponic store. Also you can buy venting and a blower in there as well and ducting to which you can vent out the nearest window.

Best regards David
my email's David@houseofcorals.com
 
David,

Thanks so much for your reply. If you get a chance to snap a photo of how the CAPs are stacked that would be great! Are you comfortable that the tower is stable?
I have a life time supply of Lanthanum chloride that I will be picking up this Sat. Hopefully that will deal with any big phosphate issues and I plan to mop up the rest with Phosguard and chaeto.

I had taken the white ABS tray off of the sump because of algae growth. I'm not seeing any of it directly in the 40B sump over the past 20 days.
I'm holding off on MH lights due to the heat that would accumulate in that room. This is Texas after all. :) LEDs may be the way to go with a stack of trays?
 
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