Auto filling ATO Reservoir for Apex

coralreefer

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So about a year ago I DIY'd a level-loc since they quit making them. I had a timer controlled solenoid that fed a 5-gallon bucket with a float valve. I also added a float switch in the event that the float valve failed to keep my RODI unit that is upstairs in the master bath from flooding my living room. It worked flawlessly for the past 1.5 years. Only problem was, the 5 gallon bucket didn't fit under my stand and it was unsightly to say the least.

I decided to build my own acrylic reservoir and use my Apex to control the solenoid and switches. I added a switch to notify when to fill the reservoir - before, I just let the bucket fill up for 30 minutes each day. Since I didn't use 5 gal of top off a day, I can now cut down on how often the reservoir is filled based upon need.

I started off ordering some parts:

1/4" electric solenoid valve 120-volt (eBay from valves4projects)
Two cheap float switches (eBay)

Then I went to Regal Plastics to shop their culls for acrylic. I got several nice sized pieces all for a whopping $5!

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I am a newb at acrylic and somehow got these cut (but I had a leak after I built it, and then discovered a new leak today when I put it into service- ugh).

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Then I glued it all up with some Weld-On #4.

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Here's the leak I had to fix.

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Here is the finished product with the float valve (purchased from Mid-Cities Aquariums) and 1/4" bulkhead I already had.

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Here is the unit with the pump and switches installed.

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I was worried that the connections that I made would somehow be exposed to the water, so I soldered the joints, applied heat shrink, then put a piece of rubber tubing over the joint. Then I squirted some black silicone in the joint until the tube was filled.

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Here is the thing installed and working (see the pinhole leak causing water to trap beneath the bottom and the stand).

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Here is the solenoid.

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I will post some more info about the programming and what the switches do next.
 
Very cool. I hope to play around with acrylic soon and your success gives me a little confidence.

Sent from my Samsung Galaxy S 4g using Tapatalk.
 
Okay on to the float switches...

I took CaravanShaka's idea of using RCA jacks and cables for my float switches. I went to Radio Shack and bought a 10' male/male cable. Cut it in half and soldered each onto the ends of the float switches.

I then made a DIY Breakout Box with a spare mini-din cable, project box, and RCA jacks following the instructions in the Unofficial Users Guide.

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On to the programming...

I created two virtual outlets named RO_LOW and RO_HIGH instead of simply using the "If SwitchX" function so that I could monitor the state of the switches by looking at the Apex Display or on the iPhone app.

[RO_HIGH]
Set OFF
If Switch1 OPEN Then ON

[RO_LOW]
Set OFF
If Switch2 CLOSED Then ON

[RO_SOLENOID]
Fallback OFF
Set OFF
If Outlet RO_LOW = ON Then ON
If Outlet RO_HIGH = ON Then OFF
Defer 060:00 Then OFF

I also added a statement in my email alarm so I get a text message when the RO_LOW switch activiates to ON so I can keep an eye on things while I am fine tuning the program. It filled today almost to the top so I changed the time to 60 minutes rather than the 45 I previously had.

I have several fail safes in place to keep from having a lot of clean RODI water on my floor!

First line of defense is the RO_SOLENOID that is powered by a DC4HD. The programming below only allows it to come on after the RO_LOW switch is ON and then run for 60 minutes (which is about how long it takes to fill the 5.5 gallon reservoir). Having it only run every 3-4 days will keep TDS creep lower in the reservoir than if I had it run every single day for a few minutes to fill it.

Second line of defense (in case the 60 minutes is too long of a time frame) is a mechanical float valve. When the water level gets high enough, the float valve shuts off the RODI after from flowing into the container thus activating the ASOV on the RODI unit.

Third line of defense is the RO_HIGH float switch which could only be full if the solenoid is on and therefore shuts it off when activiated to ON.

I have been using a system exactly like this, just not controlled by my Apex for 1.5 years now with no problems. In fact I'll be posting it for sale as soon as I repair the float valve.
 
Looks nice. I'll have to read all the details later.
 
coralreefer, if you dont mind me asking what was the total cost of the DIY breakout box. I need to add one to my Apex but didnt know if the cost was worth it vs buying the Neptune one
 
where do you buy your acrylic and how do you cut it? I have a small repair job to do on a tank and also would like to make an ATO tank
 
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