Another led light.

And that's it for tonight. Next up. Sodar.[attachment=1]ImageUploadedByTapatalk1382496471.085335.jpg[/attachment][attachment=0]ImageUploadedByTapatalk1382496485.716518.jpg[/attachment]
 
Well I guess I was more tired then I felt last night. I mounted 2 whites and 1 blue and needed to mount 2 blues and 1 white. I'm a little worries to back the screws out since there self tapping.
 
Looking good. I don't think you'll have any problems removing and re-installing the self tapping screws.
 
Haven't really done anything new but I lit up my new white LEDs that match the 20000k halides. Here's pic to pic of my old white to new whites.

Old[attachment=1]ImageUploadedByTapatalk1382666389.800944.jpg[/attachment]


New[attachment=0]ImageUploadedByTapatalk1382666405.922312.jpg[/attachment]
 
I like the new white! I been reading about DYI LED's lately and think I'll probably go this route.
 
Ordered the stuff to make my own like yours a few nights ago to go over my frag tank I am setting up, couldn't find that exact heat sink but got a 478 chipset heat sink that looks just like it an even has a fan.
 
@Guppy Breeder wrote:
Ordered the stuff to make my own like yours a few nights ago to go over my frag tank I am setting up said:
I thought I posted this link up. My bad. Can you pm me a link to the heatsink you ordered? There's a good chance that it will be setup to cool just the CPU so you won't be able to mount more then 1.
Here's the one I use.
http://www.cwc-group.com/ulfipesocpuc.html
The fan in this is 12V as well so it makes it easy to wire up with the lights.

Also if you decide to use a PC CPU your going to want to ground the green wire to a black one so it will power up.
 
Not a ton of progress made but I did a few things.

Removed the LEDs,
[attachment=2]ImageUploadedByTapatalk1383195517.666511.jpg[/attachment]

Cleaned paste off with alcohol wipes.
[attachment=1]ImageUploadedByTapatalk1383195558.202178.jpg[/attachment]
[attachment=0]ImageUploadedByTapatalk1383195573.372645.jpg[/attachment]
 
Used arctic silver which I like better.
[attachment=2]ImageUploadedByTapatalk1383195709.659667.jpg[/attachment]

Reseated the LEDs.
[attachment=1]ImageUploadedByTapatalk1383195736.064036.jpg[/attachment]

Got wires ready to sodar
[attachment=0]ImageUploadedByTapatalk1383195768.368907.jpg[/attachment]

I know it looks bad but when it's done it will look sleek.
 
Ok. Just sodared it all up. Not much to see after that.

The PC power supply was already modded so I'll just explain. Real simple.

There will be 1 green wire. I needs to be connected to a black wire so the power supply will turn on. Now I'm sure I'm missing something like the fact that a PC PSU is wayyyyy over kill on power and not energy efficient. So I would order a non dimmable meanweal. 5amp 12v.

On the PSU the yellow wire is 12V. So here's how I wired it to the dimmers. [attachment=2]ImageUploadedByTapatalk1383263601.556084.jpg[/attachment]
I'll clean up the wiring later.

Notice in this picture how low I have the power set to.[attachment=1]ImageUploadedByTapatalk1383263646.431196.jpg[/attachment]
It's barley on. Now this is a 30W led pendant at this point so with it running at best 10% power this is what my 12G looks like.
[attachment=0]ImageUploadedByTapatalk1383263712.086750.jpg[/attachment]
It's ice cold, and at full blast it's warm but not as hot as other manufactured led fixture heatsinks. I'd be willing to bet this could handle a very large portion of a 100G+ tank.

So total cost with being extremely cheap is roughly 30 bucks. For an extra 20.00 you could have a proper power source.
 
It really depends how much light your coral is used too. If its going above your 28G I would expect 50% since its only 2 chips and not 3.
 
McReefer,

I am not sure were you are located but you need to drop by and check out Tanner Electronics over in Carrollton. I go there often for my other hobby of High Power Rocketry and from what I have seen here in this forum I think you will love them. It's a Mom and Pop type electronics store meets Harbor Freight kind of place. You just never know what they are going to have on the shelves.

If you are into electronics then it's the place to be. Not only do they have just about the biggest collection of tubes for sale, they also have the most electronics for building any kind of circuit. Resistors, caps, coils, inductors, fets, and anything else you can think of. But the last time I was there and looking for something to use for the LED lighting I am working on I found a few cases of laptop power supplies still new in the box. He sells them for anywhere from $7.00 to $15.00 each. The nice thing about them vs a computer power supply is first the size. The laptop power supply has the transformer in the middle of the cord so they can be placed anywhere, and unlike the PC power supply, they have that nice hard shell around them. So no bare metal to ground, and no part of the supply is exposed to where water can easily get into them.

Most of the laptop power supplies that I have found supply around 12 to 19VDC at 3.75A which in a perfect world would give you 45 Watts of power @ 12V. If they went up to 19V then you would get 71.25 Watts. Not bad for a small little power supply. Even at 12V you should be able to handle at least 3 of your 10w LEDs. Put in the PWM dimmer in the middle of it and you have a great little LED system for you tank.,

If you need to power a bigger set of lights then instead of laptop power supplies I would suggest you find someone with a printer that has gone bad. We had a big HP multi-use printer here at the house that stopped working. I kept the power supply and I am going to use it to power the LEDs on my 150 once I get done building the stand. It is a 31.5VDC @ 3.1A which gives a whopping 97.65 Watts of power. I am using that power supply for my lights and plan on having three circuits in parallel with somewhere around 6 or 7 three Watt LEDs in each circuit.

I have purchased a bunch of the 3 Watt LEDs from a Chinese manufacture for around .79 cents each. They are 20K (White), 10K (not so white), 410nm UV, 455nm Royal Blue, 465nm more blue, and some 520nm Green. I was thinking about using an Ardruino for the PWM for dimming the LEDs but now I think I'll be checking out the dimmers you have been using. I have also been checking out StevesLEDs and I may get a controller from them to test and check out too.


Tim
 
Thanks for the reference. Ill try and make it over there some day. I have been keeping an eye out at work in the e-waste. I've found some pretty interesting stuff. I salvaged a GIANT heat sink from an old terminal style monitor. I think it came off a legacy system. The only bricks I've found are dead.

At one point i had an arduino powered light. I used the mosfet kit from sparkfun and a nano. I even wrote a pretty impressive lighting storm that fluctuated voltage on a millisecond level with random values for lows and highs. It really gave it that rumble effect. I noticed my sexy shrimp went nuts for it to.

The problem I ran into with the arduino system is the same thing I'm running into problems with this. Making it look nice as a finished product. The heatsink and leds look good. Im even getting glass cut for a splash guard. But the dimmers and PSU just look like a fore hazard lol. Thats why i have a 6 foot cable to the leds. Add in an arduino and mosfet breakouts and its just too much to fab. Someday when 3D printers are more affordable =D
 
@McReefer wrote:
The problem I ran into with the arduino system is the same thing I'm running into problems with this. Making it look nice as a finished product. The heatsink and leds look good. Im even getting glass cut for a splash guard. But the dimmers and PSU just look like a fore hazard lol. Thats why i have a 6 foot cable to the leds. Add in an arduino and mosfet breakouts and its just too much to fab. Someday when 3D printers are more affordable =D said:
I understand this completely... I have been trying to figure out a way to build and enclosure for an Arduino and the supporting electronics into my stand as I build it. I was thinking about building them into the side panel of my canopy, and then have an LED touch screen on the side to control it. I would really like the Arduino in the mix for the slow dawn and sunset modes so the lights are not just on and off with a timer. But I may have to live with that for a while while I make the more advanced controllers later.

I also like the idea of working with the e-waste. That's one reason I am using the HP printer power supply... Not only is it free, but not having to throw it into the trash and having it in the dump is a bonus. I bet we could also post a request on something like FreeCycle for working power supplies from broken printers and would probably get a bunch of them offered. I can't say I need more than two of three of them myself. I do know of one place that I could probably get a transformer from an old Neon sign... But I can't really figure out how big of a tank I would need to justify a 17,500V transformer. [smilie=lol.gif]


Tim
 
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My frag set up. Canopy isn't built yet so I have a spotlight effect
 
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