POLL: When do YOU replace your RODI Filters?

As my water production slows, and my TDS has started to slowly climb, I am considering replacing the filters on my 7 month old RODI unit. I see many varying recommendations from those that sell filters so I thought I would take a poll to see what my others are doing.
 
I replace my DI resin as soon as i get my TDS to 1 and my back wash dont help. Sediment and carbon depends on the way they look.

This is just me. As long as i get 0 tds i am good. I also make about 100gal a week.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I717 using Tapatalk 2
 
Just wondering what type of system you have? I have a back flush kit on my brs and was 8+ months on the filters and it ran the same as day 1.
 
I go by noticeable pressure drop (really do need a pressure gauge) for my RO filters and if TDS goes above 4 or 5 on those stages. DI whenever TDS goes over 0.
 
Every six months even if everything reads 0. I don't trust the carbon to remove the chloramines.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
@FiberglassMonkey wrote:
Just wondering what type of system you have? I have a back flush kit on my brs and was 8+ months on the filters and it ran the same as day 1. said:
I have an Air Water Ice Typhon Reefkeeper 5 stage 75gpd unit. The water out of my tap runs between 160 and 220 TDS. For the first 5 months of use, I was getting 0 TDS out and about 80 gpd. Over the last 2 months, TDS has slowly climbed to 5 and GPD has slowly dropped to about 40 GPD. I figure I have created 1600-2000 gallons of water since install. The sediment filter is now brown colored (was white when new). The carbon filters still look as new, and the DI has turned orange/rust. I do not have the ability to measure TDS between the RO and DI.

On a side note, I started a BRS group buy for next week to get new filters.
 
@FiberglassMonkey wrote:
I do it before every use said:
Might ask Marc melev as I heard back washing often lessens the life of the membrane. I backwash only once a month and if I don't use the RO/DI for extended person of time to get the bacteria out


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
@kuyatwo wrote:
[I]@FiberglassMonkey wrote:[/I][quote="I do it before every use said:
Might ask Marc melev as I heard back washing often lessens the life of the membrane. I backwash only once a month and if I don't use the RO/DI for extended person of time to get the bacteria out


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk"]

Oh ok. I'll check his site out, maybe he has some info there. If not I'll pm. Hate to use the membrane up fast. I make water once a week, around 20g.

Just checked brs and says before and after each use or ever few weeks... LoL
 
It's a matter of opinion on how often to back flush the system. Personally I only use it when I install new filters to drive the air from the chambers usually 5 to 10 minutes. I change my sediment and carbon every 6 months and membrane every 2 years if it needs it or not. The DI I would use the color change kind and change it when it all turns brown.


Mike
 
@kuyatwo wrote:
Every six months even if everything reads 0. I don't trust the carbon to remove the chloramines. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk said:
I would do that too but I pretty much replace my RO filters every couple of months it seems. I'm making about 60 gallons of RO/DI a week but projects like a QT tank or whatever always seem to throw my estimates off. So I guess I get 480g out of a RO filter set . . . does that seem too low? I figure if there is a 3:1 waste to good water ratio it is about right if one of the carbon blocks is rated to process 2000g

DI lasts longer much longer.

ETA: never backflushed the system or did the bleach cleaning either and am on the same membrane for about a year and half now.
 
A good rule of thumb is to replace your sediment filter and carbon block after six months. A more precise way to maximize the usable life of these two filters is to use a pressure gauge to identify when pressure reaching the membrane starts to decline. This is your indication one or both of the filters is beginning to clog.

Also be cognizant of the chlorine capacity of the carbon block. A good 0.5 micron carbon block for example will remove 99% of the chlorine from 20,000 gallons of tap water presented at 1 gpm. Some original equipment suppliers commonly provide carbon cartridges rated at 2,000 to 6,000 gallons. Remember that all the water you process, both waste water and purified water, go through the carbon block.

Regarding your RO membrane and DI resin, use your total dissolved solids (TDS) meter to measure, record, and track the TDS (expressed in parts per million [ppm]) in three places: 1) tap water, 2) after the RO but before the DI, and 3) after the DI.

The TDS in your tap water will likely range from about 50 ppm to upwards of 1000 ppm. Common readings are 100 to 400 ppm. So for sake of discussion, let's say your tap water reads 400 ppm. That means that for every million parts of water, you have 400 parts of dissolved solids. How do we go about getting that TDS reading down to somewhere near zero?

If you do some experimenting with your TDS meter, you'll note that your sediment filter and carbon block (collectively called “prefilters” because the treat the water before it reaches the membrane) do very little to remove dissolved solids. So with your tap water at 400 ppm, you can measure the water at the “in” port on your RO housing and you'll see it is still approximately 400 ppm.

The RO membrane is really the workhorse of the system. It removes most of the TDS, some membranes to a greater extent than others. For instance, 100 gpd Filmtec membranes have a rejection rate of 90% (i.e., they reject 90% of the dissolved solids in the feed water). So the purified water coming from your 100 gpd membrane would be about 40 ppm (a 90% reduction). Filmtec 75 gpd (and below) membranes produce purified water (a.k.a. “permeate”) more slowly, but have a higher rejection rate (96 to 98%). The lifespan of a RO membrane is dependent upon how much water you run through it, and how dirty the water is. Membranes can function well for a year, two years, or more. To test the membrane, measure the TDS in the water coming in to the membrane, and in the purified water (permeate) produced by the membrane. Compare that to the membrane’s advertised rejection rate, and to the same reading you recorded when the membrane was new. Membranes also commonly produce purified water more slowly as their function declines.

After the RO membrane, water will flow to your DI housing. DI resin in good condition will reduce the TDS in the RO water down to 0 or 1 ppm. When the DI output starts creeping up from 0 or 1 ppm, you know that your resin needs to be replaced. Sometimes people complain that their DI resin didn't last very long. Often the culprit is a malfunctioning RO membrane sending the DI resin “dirty” water. This will exhaust the resin quicker than would otherwise have been the case. Sometimes the problem is poor quality resin – remember that all resins are not created equal.

Additionally, don’t forget to sanitize the entire system at least once per year, and wash and lube your housing o-rings with food-grade silicone grease every filter change.

This text, along with lots of other good stuff can be found on our facebook page as well.

Russ
 
@MBSL55 wrote:
[I]@kuyatwo wrote:[/I][quote="Every six months even if everything reads 0. I don't trust the carbon to remove the chloramines. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk said:
I would do that too but I pretty much replace my RO filters every couple of months it seems. I'm making about 60 gallons of RO/DI a week but projects like a QT tank or whatever always seem to throw my estimates off. So I guess I get 480g out of a RO filter set . . . does that seem too low? I figure if there is a 3:1 waste to good water ratio it is about right if one of the carbon blocks is rated to process 2000g
"]

You should not need to replace your prefilters (sediment filter and carbon block) that often unless you are using very low cost/low end filters (e.g., a inline GAC filter instead of a carbon block). Even very low end carbon blocks have a chlorine capacity of about 2,000 gallons. The carbon blocks we include in our Premium Series RODI's have a chlone capacity of 20,000 gallons.

Is it your sediment filter that is clogging that quickly? Remember that if you have the correct pore size on the sediment filter and the carbon block, the carbon block should not be trapping sediment.

Russ
 
@Hook'em2006 wrote:
How often are you supposed to back flush the system? said:
Ideally you'd do it everytime you use the membrane as you turn the system off.

Remember that you should have your water making process set us such that you use the membrane at least once per week.

Russ
 
I change my Carbon, sediment, and DI resin once a year. My membrane is changed every 2-2.5 yrs. I only produce 10-20 g a week though. Mostly for top off and drinking. My water changes are done with purchased SW from the LFS.
 
Top