Plumbing issue

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debdp

Premium Member
It's been a few years since I put together my 60 so I don't remember a lot of the details, plus someone helped me. I started hearing a lot of water noise in the overflow and saw stream of water coming out from the inside of the elbow that leads into the tank. After taking it out I see there's a hole there. I know in the durso pipe you drill a hole in the top, but would there be a reason to drill a hole in the 90 degree pipe leading to the tank? Here's a couple pictures. I just can't imagine a hole developing in the PVC on its own, but I've never seen water spurting out of the pipe like it is, either.
 
Yep, that should be there... it is to prevent a siphon when the pump goes out. Without it, it would suck water from the tank to the sump, down to the level of the returns. That would likely overflow the sump.
 
That's to stop the back siphoning when pump is turned off


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Okay thanks. (I'll make a note of that now!) Now I need to figure out why it's gushing from there when it never used to.
 
Blockage from corrosion in the line is causing the back pressure to escape through that hole...
 
that and build up around the hole could have made the opening smaller which could make it spray out more. id take off the nozzle, soak it in some vinegar, and get a toothpick to clean out the small hole. should be good as new. looks like a summer social is in your future after all ;)
 
Thats to prevent it from reverse siphoning as people stated above, If I were you I would go pick up a check valve from home depot, Install that in the plumbing and seal that hole.
 
@elijones244 wrote:
Thats to prevent it from reverse siphoning as people stated above said:
please do not do this, if you rely on check valves you will end up with water on your floor. all it takes is a single collonista snail in the wrong spot at the wrong time and it will happen.
Click to expand...
 
I have had anti siphon hole fail too. Ie get clogged. That why I like tall sumps. Enough room to let the tank back siphon all the way down to the the outlets. I won't trust another siphon hole or check valve.
 
Checked the pipe and outflow nozzles, cleaned the opening and put it back. Sump just barely held the water that came from the overflow, just hit below the edge brace. Figured well since I'm here [smilie=smile.gif] started rearranging stuff. Found some purple death palys I thought were long, long gone from over a year or so back when they all turned white and melted.

But I have a question: Whenever there's an electrical surge or outage and the main pump cuts off, when it comes back on there's about 1-2 gallons less in the pump section of the sump and it causes the float valve to drop and then replace that with DI water. But even after things have settled down the sump doesn't suddenly become over full. Is there any way to stop that? If I'm here I just shut the RO water valve off so RO doesn't get dumped into it. Even though the level doesn't go back to where it was at least I can adjust the valve to a slower fill.
 
It sounds like your return section is really small, which is why you see it drop down significantly when the pump resumes power. If your DI water is being added slowly (AquaLifter), the little bit won't affect salinity. You can always put a valve on the ATO water to slow the drip into the sump if the pump is too powerful/swift for your situation.
 
@Marc wrote:
It sounds like your return section is really small said:
I have added valves to all tanks and now they stay just open enough for water to barely drip out even if the ball valve drops completely. I wasn't sure if I needed to do something else to stop the drop. The sump I have is your Model M.
Click to expand...
 
Shoot a video with your phone and post it on Youtube so we can watch what you are seeing.
 
Video of sump

http://youtu.be/G5h7iPqurro


Okay so every time I try to insert video I can never see it so I can't tell if I'm doing it right or wrong. David fixed it for me moons ago, but since I can't tell if it's me or my system so I've just put the link. I used to just plug in the embed code between the youtube brackets but I can never see the video now when I do it that way now.

Here's a picture, too.
[attachment=0]IMAG1202.jpg[/attachment]
 
If you look at your URL, it's the short version. When you click Share on YouTube, the word "options" appears under Share. Click options, select HD and select Long URL. The URL will change to give you the long version that is high def, and you copy and paste that into the Youtube brackets. You are simply missing that important step.
 
I don't see a problem at all. It went down maybe 1", and since you have the ball valve on the feed line, you can slow down how much is added to a trickle. It's working fine.
 
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