New Tank Algae and filtration

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dfwflyr

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So after keeping a nano I started a 120 gallon. I have about 100lbs of LR in there and 100 lbs of live sand. Over the top are two 250w metal halide lights. Down below is a 20 gal refugium with sand, rock, a coralife 120 skimmer, and I recently added a brs carbon reactor. The tak has been up for a month now and I cannot seem to keep algae under control. Its a fine yello dust that coats the glass, sand and hazes the water. I recently added a bag of phosphate pellets from my lfs to try and help out. I have trade phosphate in the tank and I cant seem to get them down. Corals that I have added are turning a dull brown as well. first I am goign to ditch the carbon. My goal is to have clear water but I have read that granular carbon is known to cause head and lateral line erosion (HLLE) and I am beginning to see it on my tang. The next idea was adding phosguard to the reactor instead of carbon but it has aluminum and seachem does not recoment it for reactors as it can cause the pellets to break down and flow to the display tank causeing lacerations on fish gills. GFO media is another option however i am hesitant because of cost, life span and availability. So i am left with possibly vodka dosing. Has anyone done it on a tank only a month old? Is this something you would recomend in my situation? What might be some other options? I dont want these fish to die.
 
Have you tested the phosphates? What are the readings? Do you have an RODI unit or are you buying your water from the store? Have you tested this water for phosphates?

If you are considering vodka dosing I would look into vinegar. Its cheaper and doesnt cause the cyano outbreaks. I would also look into biopellets first if it truly is phosphates.
 
If your tank is only a month old why don't you give it some more time to mature before you try carbon dosing with vodka.
 
I would give it some time. Even with established live rock you will get mini cycles as things stabilize. If you have low phosphate levels, GFO is what I prefer to keep them down.

As for the corals, brown is better than white! It may just be they are adjusting to your lighting or system. I've had corals that were shipped and browned out for a good month or two before getting their color back. Flow, lighting, etc. can all play a role in coral coloration.

Knowing what your source water; water parameters (temp range, pH range, Alk, Ca, Mg, etc.); and supplements and methods of supplementing are may also help folks give you advice.
 
I don't have the water parameters on me, but I will post back with them later. When I set up the tank I used water from the lfs and RO from the water machine outside of krogers. I recently bought an RODI filter and I have been topping off with that water. I have 001TDS but I have not tested the source for phosphates. I think I am going to do a water change tonight. My bigger concern is for the live stock I have transferred over to this new tank already. I don't want these fih to die. One other thought is that the flow from my sump to the DT is too low. I have a quietone 3000 running at a 4' head height I estimate about 350-450gph. I am also running a 800gph power head in the DT. I have about 20lbs of live rock left to transfer from my nano to the 120 gallon. Once everythingn is out of the nano I can place the apex controller and chiller on this new 120. More stable temperature would help but I am hesitant to move rode live stock

I have bio pellets on order but that takes a while to get going
 
That's an idea. I barely had the ammonia spike when cycling. I have assumed that the cured live rock from an established system probably prevented that. I want to add some more rock to the refugium and DT but I have held off so I don't stress the system. I did get a pretty serious diatom bloom and green hair algae bloom from the new sand but the goby took care of that.
Right now phosphates are <.25 but a shade above 0. I have an API test kit
 
If you want a more accurate read on phosphate, I suggest using an Hanna Checker. They work well and will give you much better resolution. Keep in mind that your test results may show lower levels than what is present if algae and other things in your system as actively consuming phosphate.
 
I have been looking for hannah meters. Actually saw some in the for sale section and PM'd the guy but no response. I know I am probably wanting to react to quickly to this. Right now I am just worried about the fish and coral. Seeing all this junk suspended in the water and knowing that it is causing irritation to the fish bothers me. I am contemplating a few options that I can do tonight. 1 is to change the filter sock on the overflow, and mayeb add a little filter floss to it. A waterchange will happen tonight either way. I have the bio pelets on order and considering getting some zeobak to dose in the tank.
One big issue I am just not sure about is the return pump I have. Do you guys think a quietone 3000 is enough (350-450gph with head height) or should I be looking to get mroe flow though my 20 gallon sump?
 
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