My 360g plywood tank - The official build log

[I saw the plugs when looking for the kits online. I didn't want to wait another week for shipping, so I found the parts separetly at Ace Hardware. That place is very expensive (2" bulkhead $31 vs. $14 at savko.com), but they have all kinds of oddball parts and accessories. Plus you can walk out the door with it, and I actually walk from my house to the store most of the time.

Here's the place I got the cabinet doors from:
Cheap Cabinet Doors

These were oak, came very well sanded, pre-drilled for Euro-hinges, and shipping was close to $25. If they don't have the right measurements for you, then E-mail them!

Duane,

I''m not bitter, just disapointed. The club used to be really a great place to learn. I agree everyone is not going to be happy, and that's why we elect the BOD. Hopefully somebody else will feel the same way and elect new leaders this year. If this other club focuses on trading frags it would be a nice complement.]
 
[On to the Plumbing. This was an area I think a lot of people fairly new to the hobby could use some help. I didn't even know what a union was used for untl a couple of years ago. This tank has 10 unions on it. Putting valves and unions in the right places can make ongoing maintenance and changing things down the road very easy. Here's how I plumbed the bulkheads:

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Here you can see the four 2" bulkheads. I put a 1/2 union valve on each. That way I can unscrew them right below the red valve handle and swap out parts, clean them, change things, etc.

The back line is the return. I had hoped to avoid using any 90 deg. fittings by using the flexible PVC tubing. I had it that way, but it would have been a pain to ever undo, and decided to go with 90s. The bend radius is 6", and when you move up to 2" it doesn't bend like the 1" spa flex hose does. Something I learned this time around.

The next one is a spare, but if a fish gets into the overflow, then I plan on opening the valve to drain the overflow box and hopefully suck the fish out in the process. Sure beats taking everthing apart over a few hours.

The next one is a durso using 2.5" pipe and fittings I had to special order from Savko. Remember you have to go bigger than the bulkhead to create the backpressure.

The front one is also a Durso, but it's going to run to the chiller on the other side of the tank. Below that is a manifold which will have 4 drip lines for acclimating new fish and corals. I still need to get some gate or needle valves.

I will probably use them to flow into the Refugium when not in use acclimating corals. One less powerhead, and why not use the potential energy you have already created with the main pump?

the water flows in on the left, makes a C around the Refugium and the skimmer will sit on the Right. I have easy access to the refugium and skimmer this way, and the back space gets used as a baffle. I'm pretty happy with my design.

Here's the Return plumbing:

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Here I split off the main line 4 ways. One to the skimmer, one to a drain that runs up to the attic and to a drain pipe over the kitchen sink for water changes, and one to a gate valve (gate valves are good for fine adjustments on flow, needle valves are even better) to run the calcium reactor, and one back to the main tank. I need to clean this up, but I'm going to do it after I move the skimmer, ca reactor into place.

I did this for 2 reasons: Efficency and Maintenance. One pump means I spend less on that pump vs 3, it costs less to operate (GPH/$), I don't have 3 pumps to clean or replace when they fail. I plan on buying another hammerhead in a month or so to keep as a spare or possibly to rotate them every 6 months. I will run a Stream pump in the main tank as a backup.

This tank is in my living room and I want it quiet, so I added rubber seals to the cabinet doors, and I siliconed all the joints inside the tank cabinets. I also ordered some sonex acoustical foam that really does a great job of absorbing sound. That's going on the underside of the tank. Remember I can only do this because of a vent to the kitchen pantry. it's going to draw in cold air from the floor and the noise escapes to the kitchen. There is a lot of space at the end of the tank and about 1" at the back wall for air to float up, which takes us topside . . .]
 
[Now thoes of you actually reading and not just looking at the pictures remember the skylight I was planning to include to suppliment the lighting. I got up there, and realized the skylight was too big, and went over a roof line by about 4". I've never put in a skylight but I've always been told you don't mess with ridge lines in the roof. So I abandoned the idea. I'll use the skylight on my garden shed I'm building with the new fence. :) I could add a solatube later, but I doubt I will.

Anyway here's the top:

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Several things to point out here. I did the same slide out design for the top cabinet doors on my other built in tank. The design really works well, so I used it again. It comes in handy to have complete access to the top of the tank.

I also used pulleys and a crank for the light rack. That lets me raise it for new bulbs and for working on the tank. It's quick and easy and definately worth the 40-50 bucks. That idea came from the Penn State Tank I visited last year. Sanjay showed me the university tank, we went to his house and checked out his tanks, and then I went off with him to another town to unpack a wholesale order for the school. That was a great time, and there are pictures in my gallery. I started a really good writeup on it but got discouraged for reasons mentioned earlier.

What you can't see in the picture is the exhaust fan and temprature controller. I ordered a sealed tem coontroller designed for greenhouses. I used an attic fan controller on the other tank, but it shorts out and trips the GFCI after a while. This is the way to go. I wired it up so the light comes on with the fan. it's nice to have a working light when the main lights are removed. Then when I don't need it I can just unscrew the bulb. I went with a fan 1 step up from the cheap $18 fan at lowes mainly because it was quieter than the cheap one. I think it was $30. The Temp controller was around $30 as well. Search reefcentral for the link.

The return line comes up to a 2" union (not visible) and then has valves so I can perodically adjust the flow going to the 4 corners. I decided not to go with a Ocean's Motions now. I'd rather spend the $300 on my next project which is going to be a 100" drop down projection screen over the fireplace for movies and stuff. hehe.


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Here's what the return plumbing will look like when finished. Each corner has a screw in drop down with 2 outputs , all 8 set at different heights. The pipes are 1 and 1/2 inch. I may put reducers and add 3/4 locline fittings to the 8 outlets. I'm going to set it up first.

The 1/8" acrylic lining worked ok. I should have allowed more space as it bubbled in some areas. I'm not sure if it's gas from curing or if the material expanded. Anyway the water pressure will push it back down and break it where it doesn't fit. It's more of a scrach barrier than anything else.

I ran into a problem on the water test. The back fitting leaked. The acrylic around the bulkhead cracked, probably because I moved the plumbing around too much. However, I set the bottom piece in, traced the holes, cut them and then put it back upside down when siliconing. Most of the holes were off by 1/8" or so. The back one I had to break some of the acrylic which probably caused or contribuited to the problem. Anyway, I had to cut another square, then cut a circle in it, added silicone and set it on top of the old hole. That fixed the problem, and it hasn't leaked since.

That's where I'm at now, probably a 1-2 weeks from filling it up.]
 
[Eric,

Sure the next time the tank tour rolls through Plano I would be happy to host. It was seeing Chris's tank and the other 700g monster that helped me size my overflow box. I learned a lot on that tour. I'm also hosting a TARE meeting next month, but that may be restricted, as I think they are getting organized with it.

Other than that, if you want to help me move rock over from the 175BF to this tank, I'll give you more red and green Ricordia than you could ever want. I'm going to use the 3/8" acrylic rod and drilling holes in the rock to build the reef structure I'm after. I saw an article about it somewhere. Looks like a good idea, and definately beats the zip ties I used last time which work ok. You could also check out the 72g BF I built into the study. Might like it since you have the same tank.]
 
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