Just when you think you've got it right

D

debdp

Premium Member
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I almost have the new dosing regimen tuned in for calcium and alk... sold the two largest corals and got the tank cleaned up and rearranged. Looking good. Then I saw some bubbles. Hmmm probably some cyano, Siphon it off, water change, add carbon, it'll go away, just keep up with it. Came home from the frag swap checked on my tanks and OOOOHHHH NOOOOO.... DINO'S

So I just did vaccum with water change, brush off the rocks, plopped in an intank filter with carbon. I sooo hate this stuff!!!

I must've stirred up something when I rearranged and cleaned up the tank. So not fair.
 
Have you tried hydrogen peroxide for dinos before? I even tried a concentrated dip on some frags and it worked. There's a thread around here somewhere about it. Dinos are the worst, but you have caught it early!

David
 
@DFW wrote:
Have you tried hydrogen peroxide for dinos before? I even tried a concentrated dip on some frags and it worked. There's a thread around here somewhere about it. Dinos are the worst said:
I did find a little something on it but didn't read a lot on it. I did dip the vortech in a solution of peroxide and water for a few minutes, rinsed and then soaked it in vinegar water. Usually I have to scrub it clean with a toothbrush but it was sparkling after I rinsed it.

The bubbles are forming mostly on the sandbed, a few of the large rocks and some on the pond foam. So difficult to dip in peroxide. After I blew off all the rocks, the detritus in the sump and circulate the water with filter socks on the outlets, I dosed with Prodibio Biodigest and Bioptim. The tank looked really clear and it was a couple days later the bubbles on the sand, pond foam and rock started showing up. Another encouragement to this might be the fact that the encrusting monitporas are still spawning at night so after three days of spawning in a small tank that may be leading to a rise in nutrients. And the Purple Haze is starting to turn whitish which means its preparing to spawn again tonight.
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Wow! Do you get "babies" from any of those?

The H2O2 treatment of 1 ml per every 10 gallons of actual water in your system is written up in one of the threads, if you decide to try it out. As I recall, you do that 5 days in a row, but I would have to read up on what we did, as I don't remember exactly. It worked great for a number of us! I know that I did 7 minute dips with half H2O2 and tank water with success on frags. It also gets rid of hair algae, and bryopsis. Good!

David
 
@DFW wrote:
Wow! Do you get "babies" from any of those? The H2O2 treatment of 1 ml per every 10 gallons of actual water in your system is written up in one of the threads said:
I'm going to have to search for that thread in H202. As far as babies, I don't know if anything will settle. This is something they just started a couple nights ago.
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Went through that and a few other threads. I know it's been used in freshwater tanks and I've used it to kill brush algae in my FW planted tank. So I went ahead and started dosing tonight... 3 ml total. My display is 30 and the sump is 10 but I still will do just 3. I took my snails out earlier today, but the 2 shrmip and emerald crab were out and about and they were fine during the dose. Also I could see a lot of pods on some epoxy holding a coral and the weren''t phased either. The polyps on all the corals are extended.
 
I found that when I did it, and I had caught the stuff right away, it worked nicely. Some of the coral closed up right after I put the stuff in, but opened back up shortly. And it seemed that subsequent treatments had a lesser affect on them closing up. It seemed that the H2O2 would attack the hair algae, dinos, bryopsis, if the bubbling on them was any indication. Apparently they don't like oxygen? That is my guess. I have read that some add H2O2 to their tanks during a power outage to increase the oxygen in the water, but I don't know anyone that has done it.

David
 
The H2O2 breaks down into oxygen so that would make sense. Everything in this tank is SPS except for the two plate corals and it didn't phase anything. I was concerned about these mussel looking mollusks in my refugium but they didn't close up at all. All the polyps on the SPS and plate corals stayed extended. Tiny feather dusters remained out. I added the 3ml slowly into the display tank where the pipe jets in the water from the refugium. I do see some polyps closed up on SPS but it's in areas that I used a toothbrush yesterday to remove some dino.
 
David, question:

When you dosed was it at night or during the day? Do you think it matters? I was reading that one of the reasons for keeping H2O2 in a dark bottle is because it's light sensitive. So I'm wondering if by dosing it during the day when I start to see the bubbles and threads starting to appear once the lights come on would have more of an affect since the H2O2 breaks down in light.
 
Several of us decided to dose at night, for some reason. We just dumped the whole dose in the sump and let her rip. I ended up adding a little extra when I did it, like 10 ml in 80 gallons. Here is another thread. One person says that they dosed 2ml/10 gallons with good success. They used extra filter socks, and skimmed heavily, too.

David
 
I can certainly be my own worst enemy at times. While cleaning the tank of the dinos I turned the "auto" feature on the fan off and forgot to turn it back on. That night I dosed 3ml of the H2O2. During the course of the next day I noticed the Sunset Monti's orange base fading in color as well as the Rainbow monti and the green slimer. The polyps looked okay it was the base color fading. it wasn't until towards the end of the day I took a look at the tank temp... 85.6... and that reading was after the MH had been turned off. But also the alk was at 13 and calcium at 460 so any or all of these could have stressed the corals. Not to mention that both the Sunset and Rainbow had been heavily spawning for 2-3 days prior to this. So I opted to put a halt on everything. I did not dose any more H2O2. I cut alk and calcium dosing and actually skipped dosing last night. The reading was then 12 alk and 450 Calcium. The pH however due to no dosing had dropped to 7.5 this morning. It seems that that the heat seemed to have an adverse affect on the dinos as the only symptom now are bubbles on the rocks. So the plan now is to simply pull the rocks with corals attached out, not dip the entire piece, but treat the rock face only with a H2O2 solution, rinse and put them back. The two unhappiest corals are the ORA Red Planet and the Strawberry Shortcake. The happiest my pink fungia which lost its color and has been a grayish white, is suddenly starting to color up and show some deeper pink. Go figure.
 
Ouch, sorry to hear that.

I put alarms on my phone when I turn something off that would be an issue if I don't turn it back on (i.e. when feeding phyto, I turn the return off for an hour, and set an alarm to make sure I don't forget and go to sleep, as I'm dosing this after the lights go off).

keep that in mind for next time. I know its seems like doing it would make you remember but even after all the turning on an alarm, I've forgotten about it until the alarm goes off, so it definitely has saved me from forgetting.

Goodluck and I hope you get everything under control.
 
@Surferboy1500 wrote:
Ouch said:
Yeah, like I said I'm my own worst enemy. The temp is connected to a Reefkeeper Lite that has an alarm feature which the last time it was on the beep was so annoying and it wouldn't turn off I disabled it. It's turned on now but only the flash feature.
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I've found the timer on my microwave to be much more user friendly. It only took a couple of times at flooding the garage from not turning of the RO unit until my beloved marched me over to the timer and gave me a tutorial.
 
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