JHawk82's 120G Build (Updated 4/20/10 w/ new pics)

J

JHawk82

Well I am in the beginning stages of my 120G build so I thought I would post my plans and equipment and see if anyone has any better ideas.

120G Dual Overflow
30G Sump w/ 12G refugium
2 x Vortech MP40w's for flow
Deltec AP600 skimmer
1 Phosban reactor
1 Carbon reactor
1/4hp Pacific Coast chiller
2 x 250 MH
I need some ideas for good supplemental actinic lighting
AquaController Jr.
Precision Marine Calcium Reactor
DIY Auto-top off

Any advice is much appreciated!
 
For your phosban and carbon I would look into a unit for both from Bulkreefsupply.com. They have one there for a reasonable price that is very similar to an ro/di filter with the screw on canisters. Easily mounted outside of sump as well.
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For the media I recommend the NextReef shorty. They act like a fluidized bed are ozone safe and while not on sale anymore(I think I paid 59) still not too expensive. This size holds 1/2 a gal of media and the next size up holds over a gal.
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Corwin
 
For the lighting are you going to use a retrofit design or one of the all in one units (coralite, outer orbit)?
 
updated pics of aquascape.

The pvc you see at the bottom will be covered up by the sand bed. I wanted to paint the pvc and was told krylon fusion would work inside the aquarium, anyone have any other suggestions?
 
who told you that? I wouldn't use krylon on something that is going to be submerged in your tank. It's serves as a good coat for water resistance on stands, etc. I could be wrong but I really think it would be a mistake to use it on something that is actually going into your tank.
 
@hegi wrote:
who told you that? I wouldn't use krylon on something that is going to be submerged in your tank. It's serves as a good coat for water resistance on stands said:
I have used Krylon on the PVC in my tank and I believe many others have also. I have not had any ill effects from it. I am sure other will chime in. Most of the DIY threads on RC recommend it.
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@hegi wrote:
who told you that? I wouldn't use krylon on something that is going to be submerged in your tank. It's serves as a good coat for water resistance on stands said:
Reefgod suggested that. I have no idea, anyone else want to give me some input on this?
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Whether it can be used safely may be a debate, but I would just ask why bother? The PVC will be covered anyways and anything that isn't will be quickly covered in algae so you will never see it anyways.
 
Very true, I was just saying if there is NO risk why not paint them. But sounds like it may be iffy so I will leave the pvc alone.
 
@JHawk82 wrote:
Very true said:
The way I look at it is a year or so down the road, I have a tank full of corals and fish and something goes wrong, it is one thing less I have to think might be the problem. I am not debating the paint or it use in a salt water tank, I am just eliminating variables that I can eliminate right from the beginning. Along the same lines it is the same with using new sand versus old sand from another tank. Some people have used old sand from a previous system that has been torn down. They wash it out and reuse it. I don't believe that is ever safe, but it has been done. To me the possibility that the old sand could be a problem at some point makes me eliminate it right from the beginning. I would rather spend the extra money on new sand then worry about the old sand being the problem when something goes wrong down the road.
Risk management.
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The one thing I think should be condsidered in any new tank set up is how are water changes going to be accomplised???

I did this when I set up my 105 and although I would make some changes the things I have done have greatly improved and simplfied the process.

At the highest level;

How will you get the old water out of the tank?
How will you get the old water out of the house?
How will you get the new water in the house?
How will you get the new water in the tank?

The big thing I did was simplify the first two. I incorporated a drain outlet into my closed loop that I can attach a garden hose to and run it out to the garage. I put the end in a 30 Gallon barrel and open the ball valve. When the barrel is full I can then fill with the new mixed water. The second steps are not as easy as I would like but I use a 44 Gallon Brute trash can on wheels roll it in and use a Mag 5 with a 5 foot clear hose to get it into the tank. MUCH easier than my old way of filling a bunch of 5 gallon buckets.

Things I would change.

I my opinion it is best to keep as much water as possible in the display so I wish I would have devised a better way to empty more of the sump. I currently just use a small pump and hose to move the water from the skimmer chamber and the fuge to the return and them pump to the tank. The water that goes out the drain in the closed loop feed from the main tank. So when I get the sump empty and the last bit of the 30 gallons is leaving the display I am already filling the sump.

I hope that all makes sense.


On last thing is that I have read that draining and filling at the same time is pretty much the same and emptying all readding all.
 
Well I think I will hold off on the paint. I would like to keep three tangs. I am willing to spend some good money on them because I want them as the center peice of my tank. Anyone care to give me some good ideas, or maybe some combinations people already keep with good success. I should have some more pics up this weekend.


Thanks,
 
There are many threads on this if you do a search.

The latest good source has been via a group buy from some place in Florida. Again just do a search on sand in the group buys. Then watch for another or set up one yourself.

Some folks have been using pulverized lime stone from either Wal Mart or Home Depot but the supply has seemed to dry up.

Last, just watch for someone taking down a tank and buy it used. It never really goes bad you just need to spend some time and effort to rinse it really well and then let it dry out.

Hope that helps :)

Stanley T''' - SALT
 
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