hypo treatment

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dp1416

is it possible to hypo in the main tank? If so, would you just need to remove the corals and inverts and lower the salinity for a period of time? For someone who has large fish it is difficult to set up proper qt setups for them and not stress them to the point of no return.

i have seen severa posts latley about ick in large tanks and it seems as if no one has recommended this as an option. it seems as if everyone says remove fish and let tank set bare for 6-8 weeks.

wouldn't it be so much easier to just hypo the entire tank and bank your corals?
 
No because much of the life on your live rock will die in hypo. While the bacteria would repopulate with proper strains, etc there would be a cycle and then when you brought the salinity back up another cycle, etc. It would be a nightmare to manage all the dieoff from the rock. Like curing all over again.

Now if you removed everything in the tank including the rock and sand you could do it that way. Just put the rock in a holding bin with some circulation and a bit of light it should be just fine.
 
We need to set up Hypo tanks around the metroplex so we can just drop off our fish for curing. :lol: I am cycling a 90G now to put my fish into so I can fallow my tanks again for the third time. My hippo tang is a pain with ick.
 
From my personal experience, NOT all inverts or critters die with hypo. I have some LR in my QT which has had 2 hypos for 6 weeks and am in the process again as a new flame angel has ick.

So I know coraline and some some critters seemed to be able to tolerate 1.009 and on the good note hypo as worked great for ridding fish of ick.

I think if you slowly reduce the SG your sand bed should be able to adapt and modify itself better than most think. But you need to most likey remove all your corals and such which with a monster tank will be a monster problem. Unless you convert your pool to 1.025 sg ?
 
So exactly how much more difficult is it to hypo 400 gallons of water versus the pain and stress of catching 32 fish (short of removing the rock).

Donnie and I talked about this earlier, I have an Atlantic, Lieutenant and Purple tangs all showing various degrees of ich. My naso is over 7" and shows no sign of ich, the stress of him moving to a tank that's nowhere large enough for him to survive the fallow'ing of the display tank, hell I might as well shoot him now and be done with it.

I'm interested in adding a pair of blue throat triggers, orange shoulder, blue spotted unicorn and maybe a sailfin or sohal and the tank is stocked.

If I fallow the tank and dont introduce any further fishes, will I be 'ich free' forever? Or are the naysayers right that it's in every tank?

sorry to piggyback, I'm not obsessing about ich donnie, really, I'm not. :)
 
Dude,

It's possible to hypo a large tank :D . Take everything out but the fish. I've done a hypo on the 560 and it went well. Only problem with hypo on a large tank, you constantly had to do water change.

Here is my recommendation: get two 125 g or plus.
2. Switch the fish to the other tank every 2 to 3 days. This should speed up the hypo.
3. Remember to drip kalk 24 hrs to keep the pH up.
 
I did the three day rotation on 5 fish and it worked like a charm. The only problem was that I had to put them back in the main tank because the lask tank started to cycle and the ammonia was getting out of hand. It did cure the ick but they will get it again because I was not set up to fallow the 2 125'G tanks. It does work though and it is faster but I would not do it on a large number of fish in large tanks, it looks easier to hypo in the main and remove the sensative corals, rock and livestock to other tanks or tubs. JMO
 
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