DEAD Live Rock Rejuvenation/ Vinegar-Bleach-Muratic Acid ???

[BlennyLover]

I've spent hours reading the information at reefcentral, saltgeeks and nanoreef. Way too much *different* information to comprehend what is right or wrong -- so due to trust issues ... I will get my info here. I also frequent Marc's/ Melevsreef but didn't find anything.

Over the years, I've purchased a LOT of live rock, cured for 6-8 weeks and never had issues. I've never CLEANED rock. I am looking for answers/help with: (I will number my specific questions below)

I have old live rock that went from being used in tank for 5-6 years and put into storage bins covered with saltwater (it will be 3 years in August). I had planned to clean and use it for a different tank but just went with buying more. There is about 50-60 pounds of beautiful tonga branches. I've a new tank coming next week and planned to use this old ... rock. I opened the container and it is dry and doesn't even look anything like it did ... it is horrible looking ... deep forest green, brown, black ... just nasty! It obviously isn't alive anymore -- but not sure of toxins. I want to use these pieces. I want to clean and rejuvenate if possible.

1. Can DEAD rock (this old) be brought back to life?
2. Tonga is very porous already, so is a vinegar bath or muratic acid best?

• a. Vinegar bath ... how long? ... ratio? ... rodi or saltwater?
  b. Acid bath ... how long? ... ratio? ... rodi or saltwater?

3. Bleaching? ... before or after one of the above?

• a. How long? ... ratio? ... rodi or saltwater?

I would like to have my tank up and running in SAFELY in a reasonable time.

PLEASE only direct me if you actually have experience/ knowledge doing this.

Thanks in advance for your help and advise.

 

[Heath]

Any dry rock can be repopulated with benificial bacteria. The reason why you would do an acid bath is to remove toxic heavy metals and organics that sit on the outer layer of the live rock. Bleaching doesnt do anything for you other than turn your rock white, which doesnt matter to me since it will be covered with coraline given time.

I would just do an acid bath. It helps ensure that you dont have live rock leaching phosphates out into the water, and may even help if someone had treated with copper in the past. When I did acid baths (on pukani), I used tap water and then added acid until I got the reaction I wanted. Once the reaction slowed, I added baking soda to neatralize it, drained, and then filled with tap water and baking soda again (and let it sit). There is probably a better approach involving measuring out the acid and water amounts, along with a set dwell time.

I imagine that vinegar is too weak to actually produce results.

 

[Andrew]

@BlennyLover wrote:

1. yes it can

Here is what worked for me in the past,

First a shopping list
Bleach (100% no additives)
2 gallons Muriatic acid
1 large container of baking soda (found in the pool section at walmart or sams club)
Prime (Chlorine and chloramine remover)
Dr tims one and only
Dr Tims ammonia
Seaklear phosphate remover (pool chemical)
protective gloves, and glasses



Start out by filling a container covering the rock with water.
Add bleach, I would say about 1 cup to 2 gallons of water or so. The bleach is there to break down the organics because the acid wont.
Let it sit for 24 hours.
Add 4x the dose of prime, dump the water, refill with water, add 4x the dose of prime again, dump the water again and let the rock dry out overnight.
Fill up the containers with water. Ensure you are wearing protective clothing (IE gloves, glasses shoes, pants, etc)
Open your container of Baking soda
WARNING: IF YOU GET ANY MURIATIC ACID ON YOU IMMEDIATELY POUR BAKING SODA ON IT AND WASH IT OFF.
very carefully pour muriatic acid into the container until it starts to come to a rolling boil. after about 5 minutes add a little more acid till it comes to a boil again.
After the acid has stopped boiling (approx 20 to 30 minutes) start adding baking soda to the container(WARNING THIS WILL CAUSE A REACTION SO MAKE SURE YOU ARE POURING IT FROM HIGH UP)
continue adding baking soda until there is no more reaction. now with a water hose flush out the container. dump the container.
refill with water to wash the rock again, and dump it again. Let it dry overnight.
Put the rock in a container that you can put a lid on. Add heater, circulation pumps.
add RODI saltwater and the daily dose of ammonia.
Add Dr Tims one and only.
Continue adding the Ammonia Daily as needed.
Check your phosphates after several days and determine if seaklear is needed. if it is I dosed it at 1 cap full for 33 gallons.
eventually your rock will come back and by adding the ammonia every day as needed you are simulating a bioload and your rock is ready to add to a tank!

I left mine in a container for about 50 days of this and my rock came out great! and the new tank i added it to had very little cycle as a result because all of the rock i did this with was ready to go!

 

[BlennyLover]

WOW --- WOW --- WOW ... amazing information!!!

I was really stressing ... THANK YOU soooooooo much!

Dr Tim's products on order from Foster & Smith so I will have everything except the seaklear.

50 days is great ... I was hoping for 6-8 weeks! Are there any water changes to be done during this time?

 

[Andrew]

nope, i did not do any waterchanges.

 

[BlennyLover]

Thanks again!

 

[BlennyLover]

@Heath wrote:

You're right ... Vinegar does nothing at all. Somehow I left a piece out and didn't want to go and buy more muratic acid (gallon minimum). The rock is now slimy, but can't even brush off. Oh well! Now I know ... [smilie=smile.gif]