DaveJ's 300G Build (Build has officially begun - In Process)

[DaveJ]

Okay.. I have almost made the decision to pull the trigger on this upgrade. I will be replacing my 140 with a 300G Marineland Deep Dimension tank. It will be 36Wx72Lx27T.

This is in the very beginning planning stages right now and will come out from the wall to be viewable on 3 sides, one end and front/back.

Tank: Deep Dimension 300G filled with Marshall Island LR. The tank will be either BB or shallow sandbed 2" (I like my conchs and wrasses) with acrylic rock lifts to keep the LR off the sand and provide stability. LR will likely be drilled and rodded to absolute stability. LR will be arranged in a tall island down the center of the tank, with pass throughs, arches and caves etc.

Stand: Steel Frame (Square Tube) with custom wood sheathing to match my frag tank. The top of the stand will be full wood with the cushion board the tank will sit on. The plan on the stand is to have the sump underneath (not enough room in my utility room for one that big). All panels/doors will be removable, including on the end facing the front door/entry hall. The stand itself will be 8ft with the extra space eaten up by a 2" black lip around the top (ledge) that the tank will sit down into. The tank will set into the stand to a depth of about 2-3" to hide the bottom lip. The extra room at tank level will be storage access for equipment against the wall via door. This storage area will provide access to the vortecs, power switches etc up the level of the top of the tank. From there, the woodwork will continue up the side of the wall, this will provide tracks for the canopy to attach to to raise it up to ceiling height or just below for access to the tank itself. Bottom of the stand will be built with an epoxy lined pan with 2" lip for water spillage control.

Canopy: The canopy will sit on the tank itself and be raised/lowered on tracks either via manual cable/crank or a motor driven mechanism. The canopy will contain the lighting including the ballasts and plenty of fans for air movement.

Lighting: Lighting will be composed of 2 250W reflectors (Same ones Marc has - Lumenarcs) along with a 400W in the center. I will also use 8 39W T-5's for the actinic supplementation. Ballasts will consist of IceCap MH ballasts, 2 Reeflux 12K 250W's, 1 Radium 400W 20K and 4 ATI Blue Plus with 4 ATI Actinics powered by 2 IceCap 660's.

Water flow/Pumps: Flow will be handled by my two existing Vortecs or possibly a 3rd one (likely). Water circulation will be run via a Reef-Flo barracuda or hammerhead.

Filtration: I will utilize my existing skimmer a BK 250 internal. I will plumb inline via T's/manifold, for the carbon and PO4 media. These will be located in the current utility room, along with the chiller. My current refuge will remain online as is. DSB function will be contained in the sump.

Sump: Standard 3 chamber function. Approx dimensions 30Wx74LX20T. Chamber 1 will be return section, approx 6" with pump connected to it. Chamber 2 will contain the DSB and will be at least 48" long. Chamber 3 will be the skimmer section. Water will enter the DSB section, which will include a bubble tower for the returns, flow over the DSB and into the skimmer chamber, then pass through an over,under,over,under trap into the return section. Lighting over the sump will be done with T-5's, most likely built into the bottom of the tank. The DSB will contain the usual suspects, conchs, cukes, nassarius snails etc.

Plumbing: Starting with the overflows. The overflow will drain down into an bubble tower that will be in the DSB section. Water will flow over the DSB and into the skimming chamber where it will then go into the return section to the return pump. The return pump will be plumbed out of the stand and into split first into the frag tank, then through the wall into the utility room. It will then be split again to feed the refuge and again to the chiller. The return from the fuge will flow down and be combined with the return from the chiller, pass back through the wall, be combined with the return from the frag tank and plumbed back into the stand and into the bubble chamber.

A manifold will be sectioned off in the utility room to feed the fuge, chiller and media reactors.

Flow will be adjusted with ball valves at key points, along with shut-offs at key points so areas/functions can be isolated as needed.

The install plan:

The tank will be setup and temporarily plumbed to run isolated. The tank will be cycled and stabalized before the 140 is taken down or the frag tank plumbed into it.

Water quality and parms will be matched as exactly as possible before transferring. When D day comes, both the 140 and frag tank will be taken off line, the new plumbing done after shifting the frag tank down the wall slightly. While the plumbing is being done, the corals and livestock from the 140 will be transferred into the new tank. Corals affixed to LR will broken off (LR that is) or saws-alled and reattached via plugging. No LR, other than that with corals attached and possibly some tonga shelf, will be re-used.

A week or two after that is done and the current 140 fish have a chance to settle in, I will relocate the Sohal and zebra eel from the 92 in my office. Other than that, the 92 will remain up, though I may add a few other fish for color and movement to keep the maroon clowns company. I may end up pulling the LR out of that tank though and doing fresh water dips on it to eliminate that mantis I know is in there somewhere.

Thats the equipment and plan as of right now. As things progress and things firm up as far as design I will post back. This will likely get to be a long thread, but the goal is to provide as much documentation as possible in the order that things happen. I plan on doing this right as this will likely be the last tank I put into this house. The goal is to have the tank setup and running (isolated) by Xmas with cut over in January 09. That is subject to change based on the time it takes to put the components together.

I will also be open to volunteers for most of the activities, moving the tank of course, plumbing, livestock transfer and the like. If you're willing to lend a hand at various stages, PM me. Pizza, beer and women (just kidding Lindsey) will be made available.

If you are interested in the 140 in January, let me know It will come with tank, chiller, lighting, LR a ton of sand, custom stand and all the excess plumbing (PVC) you can carry along with return pump.

 

[Jeff]

:shock:

 

[Wes]

wow, a big 300 huh...nice! sounds like one heck of a plan there, will be fun to watch. so will this be stickining long ways out the wall that backs up to your laundry area? will be interesting. Since all 3 tanks will be up at once, every thought about connecting all 3 once you think the 300 is close enough to allow all water to slowly mix, then there shouldnt be any worry about shock. dont know, havnt ever heard anyone doing it before, but just a thought. good luck, im always available to help when the time comes if its needed.

 

[Serk]

Sweet... With all the 300 gallon tanks going up, it seems like 300 is the new 180!

Can't wait to see this progress! Hopefully it moves at least a LITTLE faster than mine has been...

 

[DaveJ]

@Wes wrote:

Yep, from the wall to the right of the frag tank, between it and the door to the kitchen. Its a little over 3 ft wide right there.

Thought about it and will think more on it as that day approaches. The exact change over will likely be fluid.

 

[DaveJ]

@Serk wrote:

I've seen snails boink faster But there are a lot of details and pieces to coordinate so it may be a few months. The tank is the easy part, its the stand that is going to set the pace.

 

[dp1416]

dave, who are you getting to do your stand, if you need some help i can weld as i welded the one for the 594. I can get the metal pretty cheap since my father in law has a machine shop! I can also help with the move. Congrats!

 

[DaveJ]

@dp1416 wrote:

Hey thanks for the offer! Scott817 said he has a friend who can do it. There will be some complexity to the stand, since there will need to be flanges added as well that will be used to anchor the wood skin. I'll also be getting it either powder coated or sprayed with that truck liner material. I haven't put together the design yet so I don't know the estimated cost, but will certainly let you know if it comes in higher than I expected. I'll put you down for beer and pizza on move in day for sure.

 

[extinguishfire]

I would incorporate a water change system as well. Pump all the water out of your sump into a sink drain or something. Then have a saltwater vat to dump the water right into sump. I believe in not taking the water out of the display so that if any fish or hiding in rockwork up high you don't lose them in the process. Also keeps all your sps from sliming while out of water.

 

[Drew]

I can't wait to see this tank build. It will also be nice to see another big tank join the community.

 

[DaveJ]

@extinguishfire wrote:

I am thinking about how to do just that. I won't drill the tank for it, but I may do something with the return line. I could put a cut-off ball valve in the return line with a hose nipple I can attach a hose to, then once the pump is shut off, can use the siphon to drain it off. The most likely would beto do the same in the sump, put it below water level and shut everything down and drain it off that way. Using a pump to pump it back in the same way would work. Perhaps have two, one above level, one below. The below would drain, then shut gate valves off to direct it to the top one to fill, something like that.

@SirRicsAlot wrote:

I'm taking donations for the build fund to keep the thread going

 

[dp1416]

dave,
forgo the tabs, that is exactly what i did on mine. i am not sure if you seen my build thread if not i encourage you to look at it. it was a waste. you can see how i built my surround to the metal stand and it is completley removable. i also have a two piece canopy that i can remove bymyself. the doors are completly removable with no hinges, magnets or anything. Keep in mind my tank is 10 ft long, 38 inches front to back and 31 tall. I went this route with the metal for security and searched everywhere for ideas on the removable wood stand. either way, i am excited...make sure to put leveling feet on the metal stand and by the way the rino liner is very over rated. Paint on rustoleum the commercial stuff works just as good and is a fraction of the price. the main thing is to prime and paint a good coat. it does not matter what it is if it is scratched to bare metal it will rust.

Also, if you use a 2x3 or 2x4 metal top post on end you will have more than enough strenght for the stand to have minimal uprights for under stand maintenance. I will never build a wood stand again. just to give you a price idea, it cost me 250 bux in metal to build the stand i built on mine and it is WAYYYYY over build. Any advice you need, i can help. I bet my stinkin stand weighs 400lbs by itself. heavy little bugger.

 

[DaveJ]

@dp1416 wrote:

Thanks for the suggestions. So the paint, if properly applied, is durable enough to withstand water and/or any banging?

The only removable parts were going to be the doors themselves and maybe some false supports between the doors, but I will take a look at the build thread again with an eye open for that part. The plates were going to be to secure the skin only, which would be more or less perm.

I'll post a drawing of the stand when its complete for you to take a look at.

The first challenge is getting the stand in the door. The tank won't be a problem as its 27 and can be flipped to bring it in. But the stand itself is a problem since I have 34" of clearance in the door and no matter how I turn it, that won't fit. So its either take the door frame apart down to the brick... or assemble the stand inside the house. I wonder if slip in on the support legs would work with secure bolts. So have the supports slip into each other with 12" posts going into the arms and secured with large bolts. No weight bearing on the bolts mind you, that would rest with the square tubing, the bolts would be put in once everything is assembled and only to hold them together.

EDIT...

Okay I looked at it closer and those tabs were the same basic idea I was going with, though you did smaller ones that I envisioned. What was the problem with them and if you had to do it over again, what would you do different?

 

[chrisrush]

Wow Dave. Congrats on the new tank. Sounds like quiet a project. I'm hoping to upgrade next year when we move into a new house.

Do you think you have enough light on that tank? :lol: 900w in MH and 250w in T5s should definitely be plenty. If you are using Lumenarcs, do you think you really need the 400w MH?

I've had both metal and wood stands and my next tank will definitely be metal. I used a good primer and some metal paint on mine and I've had no problems with rust. If you wanted the truck liner, go for it, but as Donnie said, paint is just as good.

 

[washingtond]

Dave I am impressed with the amount of planning that you have put into this project. What are you planning for keeping the tank cool especially during the summer? Also do you have any conceptual drawings and pictures of where things are going to be located?

Brain is right and the 300 gal tank is becoming the new 180.

 

[DaveJ]

@chrisrush wrote:

The 400W is basically to make up for the 20K. It may be overkill and I may end up with 250W instead. I currently have 750W of MH over my 140, with 110W of VHO actinics so the new system isn't that much different.

@washingtond wrote:

Chiller, I guess I forgot that in the equipment list, but its mentioned in the plumbing section. I'll be upgrading to a larger size of course. It will be located where my current sump is now.

Working on the drawings... I'll post them as I go.

 

[dp1416]

Yes, the industrial stuff is very thick and will do just the same as the rino liner or bedliner. The bedliner is a great idea but the cost is out of this world for what it actually is/does. Now if i were to spend the extra money i would have had it powder coated, but hauling that around and moving it and chancing scratching it, not in my best interest. I would say powder coating and rino/truck bed liner are going to cost in the 4-500.00 range.

Doors are no problem to have removed, forstner bit and some 55lb pull force rare earth magnets and you are good. i priced magnets out and it would have been about 80 plus shipping for the magnets, not bad but i have a lot of doors and big doors. i think my doors are 26x29tall.
I would think the wood facade can be built independet of the stand. your doing a penensula type tank, correct? Basically what i would do is something like this from a top view

This would be one side, squiggles could be the doors
~~~~~ ~~~~~ ~~~~~~
_______________________________
I
I
I You could put a split in this joint and use dowles and saches for attach
I
I_______________________________

I dont see any problem with this at all. The only challeng i see is having to keep everything square. I know this might sound a little off the wall to you, but what about doing what you just said but when you put it back together, put a heat tarp down and just weld it back together and touch up the paint. Just a thought. I think the bolt idea will work just fine. I would make sure to find the outside diameter tubing to match the inside diameter tubing with very minimal deflection at all. If you were to build it this way i would simply cut everything and tack the legs together and weld it square, grind off the tac and pull apart.
EDIT...

Problem 1 - i have carpet and the wood was already cut outside and pre drilled and screwed so it would just "line up". Well i gave a half inch or so of play but the carpet absorbed more of the tank so i did not want to redrill the wood.

What would i do differently? I would absolutley make the facia board (stand surround) the same. Honestly the onlything i regret now that it is up and running is spending all the damn time adding those little tabs to secure the wood facia. All i did was it my head and arms on thos sharp bastards when i was working on the tank and i hated them....and now they have no use. A surround of your size will easily support itself without pulling away from the cabinet just fine...or use magnets to bold the entire false front on the stand.

 

[Drew]

My main question is, Why are you stopping at 300 gallons? There's so many more gallons that come after that. Like 400,500, 2100.
My only regret with my 270 is it's honestly still not big enough.
I've contemplated selling it, and getting a bigger one.

 

[dp1416]

Drew i am with you as well. my 210 was not enough, my 300 was not enough and now my big tank.....well its still not enough, but it is at the financial cap :shock:

Although i do love a big tank, i still miss some of the lower cost associated with the 300 as well as the maintenance as well. 165g water water changes blow.

 

[DaveJ]

@SirRicsAlot wrote:

Space mostly... If I went 8ft on the tank or 10ft, it would stick right into the foyer. I don't want to do anything perm to the house, so doing an inwall or building a wall unit with stand wouldn't be a go. Tank size as well.... that is the biggest they go with Marineland and with a 20yr warranty on the tank, you can't beat that. Plus the maintenace and equipment re-use... if I went larger I would need a new skimmer. You have to draw the line somewhere... plus as Donnie mentioned, larger water changes suck At this size, with frag tank and sump, I can do the 40G can once a week and be good to go. I am going to need a bigger RO/DI unit and probably will get one of those Suppository shaped storage bins for the garage for fresh and salt and plumb those into the system with pumps/valves.