Tools for tightening Bulk Heads

M

monisa

Premium Member
Can you post here if you have a special tool or something to tighten your bulk heads with.

This is my 3rd teardown of my refugium/plumbing to get to a leaky bulkhead.

These are the regular 1" from the overflow, I purchased the regulare aquarium bulkheads whilst I was over in Ft-Worth from Franks?

I have tight spots in the corners now due to the tank not being able to move with the water and I used a long nose and a longer long nose plier, but the plastic is stripping a bit, tried a basin wrench and it wouldn't fit.

Your input would be appreciated as always.

Thanks.
 
I was told not to use a wrench on bulkheads. Anything more than hand tight can distort the rubber seal - and the seal goes on the wet side.

If you still plan to use a wrench, I'd think a large pair of slip joint pliers would work, like channel locks.
 
@DheereCrossing wrote:
I was told not to use a wrench on bulkheads. Anything more than hand tight can distort the rubber seal - and the seal goes on the wet side. If you still plan to use a wrench said:
It seems that the slightest movement with the overflow pipe above, starts a drip, or a movement in the piping?

I did hand tighten the first time and the seal is on the top, (wet side), but I got the drip, therefore I went with the wrench tightening method.
Click to expand...
 
nope, i would be leary of using any wrenches as i have read many stories of people cracking the glass on their aquariums b/c of over-tightening the bulkheads ... it is likely caused by the gasket binding while you tighten it ... try placing some vaseline on the rubber gasket and then tighten it ... of course, your definition of hand tight may be different than mine, so, you may need a wrench to make it snug - just be careful :D
 
I was told by an aquarium manufacturer to go hand tight and then 1/8 - 1/4 of a turn with a wrench of sorts. My hand tight is pretty tight, so I just did an extra 1/8th of a turn and things are working for me.
 
When we had to move Lindsey's tank two weeks ago, we removed the bulkheads entirely. Robert was there, and he made it look really easy. I held a bucket under the tank where the holes were located, and he poured about 1/2 gallon of water into the overflow to wash out the area to remove any sand or detritus.

The bulkhead was then put in place and held by him while I handtightened the nut from below. We worked together, and it didn't take long at all.

Perhaps you have a little bit of sand in your overflow causing the drip since the seal isn't holding.

Frank has a metal bulkhead wrench, which can be used to nudge it a little tighter if necessary. A strap-wrench, like the kind used for oil filters, can work. Huge channel lock pliers may work. Years ago, I was under a 400g with a bad running leak and zero space. That day, I used a flathead screwdriver and a hammer to tap the nut the direction necessary to tighten it. It was terrible, and I got more and more aggravated trying to get it resolved. Fortunately, I did get the leak stopped, but for a while there I was wondering what would break first: the tank / bulkhead or my spirit. :shock:
 
There is a small amount of sand in the overflow caused by me turkey basting the rocks and a power head was too strong initially.

I'll try flushing it tonight, with a bucket under the bulkhead.

Marc, How did Robert hold the Bulk Head from the top, did he just grab the long PVC extension or did he manage to put his arm down to the Bulk Head, while you turned?

I read on MAAS somewhere that some people are using Crisco, a tiny amount on the seal before placing it down, so the seal turns with the Bulk head and doesn't dry out, has anyone here tried this method with success?

At least I feel better after hearing that others too have had issues, though my living room carpets are still wet, and wife is still upset after 3 Days. :roll:
 
you dont use vaseline...only use silicone grease. vaseline will break down the gasket..
 
Is silicone a no-no now? Years ago when I actually had a reef-ready tank, my buddy whose job was tank maintenance, did all the plumbing for me. He used silicone on all the bulkheads and I never had a leak.
 
The bulkhead wrenches come with the all-glass overflow kits. They are supposedly designed to tighten to a certain torque before slipping, so you don't tighten it down too much.

Silicon is fine.. Frank and I used that on the 40G QT when one didn't want to seal right. Stopped it immediately.
 
You need to rinse it out then.

Robert held onto some plumbing that was still attached.

I've never used anything on the bulkhead, silicone or grease.
 
Rinsed out overflows by loosening one of the bulk heads and flushing with a half gallon or so of water till all the sand was removed.

Hand tightened for the most part the bulk heads with a small extra tug using a Long-Long Nose Plier (the Xtra Long one).

Now tightening the Union right below it, cracked, I guess I overtightened it.
On my way to HD, again.

Anyhow, do any of you place silicone on the thread and then Teflon, only silicone, only teflon, Teflon first and silicone over?
The union seemed to have a drip everytime the pipe was pushed upward and caused it to give way a bit, then the drops would start.

How do you fix your unions so it's dry, permanantly?
 
Unions use a rubber O-ring to seal. Is yours missing by any chance? It is black, and round, not flat like the bulkhead washer.

I use silicone grease on these O-rings, and I also use that or faucet grease on the threads so it is easier to unscrew the union later (in the future). Otherwise, it may be nearly impossible to take the two parts apart later.
 
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