Switch from T5 HO to Metal Halide

M

Mitch9192

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Hey guys,

I found a good deal on a Metal Halide setup today and thought I would go for it.

I am currently running 8x T5 HO with ATI 2x Purple Pluse 2x AquaBlue and 4x Blue Plus.
My new setup is 2x 175W 14K Metal Halides. Mogul type (no additional UV shielding is needed right?)

Now I know I will need to slowly acclimate my corals. Today had them on for only 30 minutes before i noticed most of the corals at the top had closed up so I switched back to actinics only (2xT5) so they could recoup. During the time the MH's were on none of the fish were out.

Those of you who have made the switch does this sound normal?

Also, the bulbs were "lightly" used and one was "new", but the color of the light looked really yellow. They are "Top Lighting" 175W 14K. I think these bulbs are pretty cheap any recommendations on the Halide users out there. My tank is 90 Gallons and only 18" deep so I don't think 14K is probably the best color.

Thanks,
Mitch
 
What kind of look do you like, white, really blue or touch of blue. Iwasaki 15K, AquaMaxx 14K, XM 20K, Ushio 14K, Radium 20K are all good bulb choice, you can find several of these locally at http://www.soslightbulbs.com.

Cheers,
 
Thanks, Bimmerzs.

I like the blue look but I have heard that the higher kelvin bulbs increase color, but slow growth...and vise versa. Is there any truth to this?

Mitch
 
Usually higher the kelvin the lower the par. But iwasaki 15k is the exception to the rule it puts out a ton of par. But you do need to supplement with some blue either led, t5 or vho


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
@kuyatwo wrote:
But you do need to supplement with some blue either led said:
Is the additional lighting mainly for aesthetics or is it needed/required in conjunction with metal halides?
Click to expand...
 
Some people feel iwasaki is too white/ yellow for a 15k bulb in my opinion best 175 watt bulb it is knock named par buster for a reason


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
With your 18" depth, you will not need a ton of PAR imo. You will be happy with something like the Ushio 20K's or Phoenix 14K's or any of the those really, you already have actinic supplementation in case you still want more blue.

Cheers,
 
I have been reading that the SE bulbs DO have UV protection unlike the DE bulbs; however, after reading threw some of the warnings on HelloLights.com I am not sure that is accurate. The same warning is both on their SE and DE bulbs

Ushio Disclaimer:
WHAT ABOUT THE UV?
UVC and UVB in excessive amounts can be detrimental to fish and corals; However, UV light does occur naturally in sunlight which in balanced amounts is not necessarily harmful. Studies have found that the majority of coral reef fish produce mucus that absorbs harmful UVB rays. Corals also have developed a natural pigmentation as a protection from UV. Metal halide lamps produce UV light which can be significantly filtered by fixture glass and water depth. USHIO's Aqualite metal halide lamps are balanced to reduce excessive amounts of UV light for your reef system.
USHIO recommends the use of tempered safety glass on any fixtures using our Aqualite metal halide lamps. The safety glass not only reduces some UV, but also extends the life of your lamps and sockets by protecting them from salt water corrosion. UV protective glass is required for any architectural use of Aqualite metal halide lamps where people are directly exposed to the light.
http://www.soslightbulbs.com/ushioaqualite1000wattmetalhalidelamps10000kaquariumlightbulb.aspx

Radium Disclaimer:
SOS Notes for Radium 250W 20,000K Metal Halide Installation:
When installing the Radium 20K 250 Watt lamp be very careful not to touch the glass during installation. If you do, wipe the glass down with alcohol and let it dry completely before starting the lamp. Once you installed the lamp be sure to replace the protective UV shield as these lamps produce ultraviolet light that can damage your eyes and any living animals in your tank. This is normal installation procedures and precautions with any metal halide lamp used in aquariums.
http://www.soslightbulbs.com/radium20kse250wattaquariumlamp.aspx

I figure it is probably a broad sweeping warning, but still thought it was interesting.

Mitch
 
The SE bulbs are basically DE bulb's enclosed in an outer glass envelope, if you crack the outer glass on a SE bulb you will definately know as it will fry your coral's in a swath, where the UV is coming out from. Thats just legal mumbo jumbo the have due to sue happy idiot's, kind of the few make it bad for all kinda thing.

Cheers,
 
Today I made it to about 45 minutes before the corals started to shrivel up. I did one 45 minute session in the morning and one at the night. The fish are starting to get use to it and all of them made it out tonight. I think I could of gone longer, but I had recently moved 2 corals to the top before I made the switch. I don't really want to move them back down so I will be patient and try to add a few minutes everyday.

Mitch
 
I ended up grabbing some ReefLux 20k 175W and I like the color, but I am worried it may not be enough light. I have a dimable ballast that can go to 250W. My tank is 48x24x18 tall (90gallon with lots of rock http://www.dfwmas.org/Forums/viewtopic.php?f=45&t=90745) and is mainly SPS.

Do you guys think I should make the jump to 250's (Thinking Radium 20K) or give the 175's a chance? Since my tank is rimless it doesn't have a hood and I would like to avoid supplemental lighting, as it wouldn't look as clean as the pendants do.

Mitch
 
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