Rodi unit question

I just got in a 75 gallon per day brs rodi unit. I set it up and am flushing it out for 1 hour according to instructions. My question is; should the "good" water from the blue tube just be dripping out or should there be a good flow? I know there is a lot of waste but This rate does not seem right. The waste water has good flow but good water is just dripping.
 
should be around 3:1 bad to good, sometimes if there is a lack of water pressure you have to install a limiting device on the waste water to get the desired ratio.
 
Adjust your flow restricter. I think the generally recommended rate is around 4 to 1.
4 cups of waste and 1 cup of pure water.
 
Got it figured out. I had flow adjuster all the way open for 1 hour to flush system. When I shut it I am now getting 2 to 1 waste to good water. 000 tds. Thanks guys
 
to your first question - in my experience, yes they do appear to "just drip" once any pressurized storage tanks are depleted - 75gpd works out to 3.125 g per hour, or 6.6 Oz per minute, or just a bit over 3ml per second. that would be a rapid drip, but not a coherent stream. if you have any type of fluid measuring and a stopwatch you should be able to confirm the rate - about 72 seconds to fill a standard us measuring cup. if it is taking much longer than that then you are not getting the 75GPD that the device is rated at and should probably look into making adjustments as stated above.
 
Give it a few days, new filters tend to work better/faster IME. However if it continues to be higher than the stated amount per your RO membrane you may have too much pressure on the waste water side, it can shorten the life of the membrane and/or cause the water to have a higher TDS. Just keep an eye on it and check the TDS regularly, try to be patient it will pay off in all aspects.
 
Change the filters every six months. The DI is changed based on the TDS reading you see. Usually people change the DI as soon as the number isn't zero any longer, but I usually wait until it read "3" or so.
 
@Matthew.yowell wrote:
I just got in a 75 gallon per day brs rodi unit. I set it up and am flushing it out for 1 hour according to instructions. My question is; should the "good" water from the blue tube just be dripping out or should there be a good flow? I know there is a lot of waste but This rate does not seem right. The waste water has good flow but good water is just dripping. said:
Are you sure you flushed it correctly? Usually that means letting it run for an hour in normal mode. This gets the food grade preservative out of the membrane. If you opened the flush valve on the flush kit, that is a 15 second procedure. Don't run it longer than that in the future.
 
@Marc wrote:
Change the filters every six months. The DI is changed based on the TDS reading you see. Usually people change the DI as soon as the number isn't zero any longer said:
Since I got my rodi mine reads 5 ?? Is this bad??
 
@TheReeferBoss wrote:
Since I got my rodi mine reads 5 ?? Is this bad?? said:
What is the TDS of your source water? Over 200, right? 5 is way better than 200. [smilie=wink.gif] I'd replace the DI resin now to get it back to 0.
 
@Marc wrote:
[I]@TheReeferBoss wrote:[/I][quote=" Since I got my rodi mine reads 5 ?? Is this bad?? said:
What is the TDS of your source water? Over 200, right? 5 is way better than 200. [smilie=wink.gif] I'd replace the DI resin now to get it back to 0."]
Yes, it reads @250+ last time I checked
 
@Matthew.yowell wrote:
How do I know when to change filters and di said:
A good rule of thumb is to replace your sediment filter and carbon block after six months. A more precise way to maximize the usable life of these two filters is to use a pressure gauge to identify when pressure reaching the membrane starts to decline. This is your indication one or both of the filters is beginning to clog.

Also be cognizant of the <u>chlorine capacity </u>of the carbon block. A good 0.5 micron carbon block for example will remove 99% of the chlorine from 20,000 gallons of tap water presented at 1 gpm. Some original equipment suppliers commonly provide carbon cartridges rated at 2,000 to 6,000 gallons. Remember that all the water you process, both waste water and purified water, go through the carbon block.

Regarding your RO membrane and DI resin, use your total dissolved solids (TDS) meter to measure, record, and track the TDS (expressed in parts per million [ppm]) in three places: 1) tap water, 2) after the RO but before the DI, and 3) after the DI.

The TDS in your tap water will likely range from about 50 ppm to upwards of 1000 ppm. Common readings are 100 to 400 ppm. So for sake of discussion, let's say your tap water reads 400 ppm. That means that for every million parts of water, you have 400 parts of dissolved solids. How do we go about getting that TDS reading down to somewhere near zero?

If you do some experimenting with your TDS meter, you'll note that your sediment filter and carbon block (collectively called “prefilters” because the treat the water before it reaches the membrane) do very little to remove dissolved solids. So with your tap water at 400 ppm, you can measure the water at the “in” port on your RO housing and you'll see it is still approximately 400 ppm.

The RO membrane is really the workhorse of the system. It removes most of the TDS, some membranes to a greater extent than others. For instance, 100 gpd Filmtec membranes have a rejection rate of 90% (i.e., they reject 90% of the dissolved solids in the feed water). So the purified water coming from your 100 gpd membrane would be about 40 ppm (a 90% reduction). Filmtec 75 gpd (and below) membranes produce purified water (a.k.a. “permeate”) more slowly, but have a higher rejection rate (96 to 98%). The lifespan of a RO membrane is dependent upon how much water you run through it, and how dirty the water is. Membranes can function well for a year, two years, or more. To test the membrane, measure the TDS in the water coming in to the membrane, and in the purified water (permeate) produced by the membrane. Compare that to the membrane’s advertised rejection rate, and to the same reading you recorded when the membrane was new. Membranes also commonly produce purified water more slowly as their function declines.

After the RO membrane, water will flow to your DI housing. DI resin in good condition will reduce the TDS in the RO water down to 0 or 1 ppm. When the DI output starts creeping up from 0 or 1 ppm, you know that your resin needs to be replaced. Sometimes people complain that their DI resin didn't last very long. Often the culprit is a malfunctioning RO membrane sending the DI resin “dirty” water. This will exhaust the resin quicker than would otherwise have been the case. Sometimes the problem is poor quality resin – remember that all resins are not created equal.

Additionally, don’t forget to sanitize the entire system at least once per year, and wash and lube your housing o-rings with food-grade silicone grease every filter change.

Russ
 
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