Next challenge. Dwarf seahorse tank

So I'm down grading my reef. Wanting a dwarf seahorse tank. Someone at fish2marow said that you can get them to eat frozen, and a 14g cube would be a good size for a few. Or am I getting an ear full of what they want me to hear? Doing more and more research. But I like to hear multipul experiences, and point of views. Low flow and something to block the over flow... What else? Have algae and rocks and sand already.
 
Same as other seahorses IMO. Are they doable? For sure. Does it sound like they made it seem easier than it really is. Yep. If they were as simple as those easy precautions then they would be much more common in the hobby. There's more in handling them day in and day out than setting up the tank properly and continuously run smoothly. Getting them to eat frozen isnt as easy as it sounds either IMO. if you can get them eating frozen before hand then thats a huge obstacle overcome, but certtainly not the last. Personally, I think your going to end up with a big waste of time/ money and end up right back where you are... Sorry if its negative, but just my .02.
 
Dwarves are some of the easiest seahorses to keep TBH. Well, except maybe Erectus... Anyways, the frozen food thing? That is a lie. Some dwarves will accept little bits of frozen food here and there if they are fooled into it, but you will need to feed them live food twice daily. Copepods are better for them nutrition wise, but given the amount of food they consume, it is highly impractical. Your cultures will not be able to keep up. So Copepods are a great treat, but brine shrimp are the only practical choice here. This means that you will be hatching and enriching brine shrimp daily or weekly (depending on how much you hatch at a time). On the upside, filtration is very simple with them. Some have reported success with just an airline going into the tank. Personally, I used sponge filters, which worked very well for me. You will want one rated for a far larger tank, though. Also, because you will probably want to clean up the uneaten brine shrimp after feeding time (due to their tiny-ness, even snails are bit of a risk, particularly around the fry), it is probably best to go bare bottom. As for tank size, believe it or not, 14g is a tad bit too big for DSH. The best success seems to have been in 4-6g tanks, although even something as large as 10g will do. Because they rather weak swimmers, dwarves don't really hunt around much for their food, they just sit around and wait for it to pass them by, for the most part, which means that the volume of water must be low enough to maintain sufficient food densities for them to eat their fill without moving more than an inch. (Slight exaggeration, but that is the jist of it). Anyways, they also reproduce prolifically, so buy 2 or 3 pairs and a few months later you will have several dozen. Lastly, about the rock: hydroids and aphasia can and will kill your dwarf seahorses. Be sure that there is none of either on your rock! I have only brushed up on some of the main considerations, but go to seahorse.org and fusedjaw.com and look at their articles on the subject. They will give you a thorough understanding of the requirements of dwarves. Good luck!
 
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Well. I have decided to sell my seahorse due to my job and getting more hours so I can't feed it enough. It was a good run though... Maybe some day I'll return to it.
 
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