HM's 40b build (will work on title)

Yeah I really want to have a dry area for the electronics (although not planning much) and if you notice on one side of the stand I used 2x6 rather than 2x4 as my plan was to use that space as the dry area. Well when I built the frame the second time I followed the directions from RC and actually made the internal screw strips even though I used pockets holes and as a result, I lost 3". I'm presently looking into other options such as buying a weather proof electrical conduit box to put the electronics in.

Otherwise, I scrap the stand and build the frame a third time.
 
It doesn't have to be much... what about cutting one of those side panels in half and permanently attaching one half, then build yourself a 20x20x4'' box on the outside of the attached part... you would still be able to get into both sides, and still have your dry area.
 
Hmm interesting, I guess I need to think about how it looks, I am having a hard time visualizing it..
 
So I test fitted my tank on the stand and low and behold on corner is lower the others and so it doesn't sit flat. I'm not sure what do at this point. I would really prefer not to built the stand a third time but it looks like that may be my only option. The stupid corner once shimmed leaves a gap between the plywood and the 2x4 rail roughly 1cm (think as wide as a paint stir stick). Any one have any ideas or should I just start removing the pieces I can keep and start over ?
 
You could buy a plainer an work on it that way till it sit level on the floor.


Sent from pay phone in the airport.
 
I'm not sure I explained it well. The gap is at the top where the tank sits and one corner is lower than the other four. So will planing the top rails where the tank sits still work ?
 
Yup, I get it. As long as you are still planning to put plywood down for a flat surface, then using a plain on that corner shouldn't be an issue.

~Matt
 
Thank you all for the input...I can't believe what this simple project has turned into. It is really very frustrating.

I've had another option proposed from another forum I fequent, the gentlemen said that as long as all four corners are making contact with the plywood cover it should be fine. He said to shim the plywood up to the correct height so all four corners are touch and then fill any gaps between the 2x4 rails and the plywood with liquid nail. Once it is dry, remove the shims and fill that space with liquid nail also.

So I've got the plywood shimmed up where all four corners are solidly touching. I tested it by trying to slide a Kroger card under the corners and it wouldn't slide so I think I have good contact.

Any thoughts on this as a possible solution?

I have not tossed out the idea of planing it but I guess I am also concerned that I am trying to fix something I shouldn't fix, and maybe I just need to rebuild.

thanks again everyone
 
If you're doing the liquid nails, remember that the plywood needs to be flat and level for the tank. Same goes for planing it. Less shims is better, IMO.

~Matt
 
Technically, it does have to be "flat" for the sake of the tank seams not leaking, but it has a rim, so if the top isn't level you won't even notice the water being at different heights across the top. My stand wasn't perfect either. Also, remember to check the level WITH WEIGHT ON THE STAND. If you cut the vertical beams the exact same length, the top will flex back to flat and level with weight. (or close enough for comfort)
 
Thanks all for the help and feed back. I decided to go ahead and rebuild the frame. I wasn't thrilled with what I built and I was compromising in a few areas so I just decided it would be better to rebuild. I borrowed a mitre saw so I won't be at the mercy of HD any more and I'll just rebuild any pieces that aren't working right as I go. Better to do it right and get what I want then settle, if I wanted to settle I would have just bought a prebuilt stand (I feel like those might be famous last words)..
 
@reeferwanabe wrote:
Since you are redoing it said:
Yeah that's one of the reasons I'm redoing it. I'm going to put 2x6 on one side so I should have a dry compartment roughly 4x30 to work with.

Also planning to use 3 independent gfcis so that if one trips the whole tank doesn't shut down. Hadn't seen anyone else doing that but I talked to two electricians and they both said it should work.

Need rebuilt stand first though...
Click to expand...
 
and we're back in business!!

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no gaps, all four corners are solid and even in the middle I can barely fit a customer loyalty card under the rim. once weight is added it should sit solid!!

One quick question, does anyone know of any reason why I could NOT cut an inch or so off the 2x4 in the front right in the picture, it is non-load bearing. It is one of the inner ones and is only there to use as a screw strip and to prevent the load bearing legs from twisting. I need to remove about an inch otherwise i have to slide the sump in from the top and I don't want to do that...
 
Ok I need some advice. I'm finding that the only way I can fit the sump into the stand is to lower it through the top where the tank will be in the future. I'm not super keen on this idea but I'm wondering what you all think? Alternatively, I can use a 20 gallon instead of a 29 and the sump will come out no problem.

Any thoughts?
 
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