First saltwater tank setup advice - Questions about setting up a reef tank

J

JumboAg99

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[I've had freshwater for years and have decided that I want to branch out into something more challenging (and hopefully more rewarding.) I'm setting up an old 10 gallon tank to be used as a small marine reef environment.

I'm going to use a 20" Coralife PC Single strip (28watts, should be sufficient for the 10 gallon.) I got a small protein skimmer. I'm going to re-use my existing heater and power-head.

I've been talking with the guys at Dallas North Aquariums. They seem to know what they're talking about, but they do seem to be a bit pricey on certain items. Anyone have any recommendations for other shops north of Dallas. (I'm in Garland off the G.B. Turnpike, so Plano, Richardson, Garland, North Dallas, etc are all convenient areas for me to shop. I always like having multiple options for anything I buy so that I can shop around.)

Question 1 - I was planning on using my "over the top" power filter.. Is that overkill? Should I NOT use such a device with a salt water tank.

Question 2 - From everything I've been reading online and talking with people about, it looks like the first thing to do is put down some live sand and live rock to get things started. The consensus seems to be 1" of sand and about 10-15 pounds of rock for the 10 gallon tank. There seems to be some disagreement on rock/sand. Do I put the rock on top of the sand, or dig it into the sand so that it rests on the bottom of the tank. (Once established there will only be two or three fish in it due to the small size. Probably a damsel and a clownfish.)

Question 3 - Once sand and rock are in.. lights on or off? How long for it to cycle, using live sand and rock to start it off. Any third party bacteria I should add to speed things up, or let it work things out on its own.]
 
[Hey hows it going, just remeber variety is always better! soo I would say check out all of the stores that your gas card allows you to lol , but in that genral area I personaly think thast aquarium environments and saltwater paradise are pretty good, but like I said, check as many stores as possible, out for yourself "variety is better". And for your tank just to let you know it might be a little bit tougher to do a 10g tank as your first saltwater aquarium, usually the rule is bigger is better. But if that is all you can manage, then be it, there are at least a dozen people on here that do the smaller aquariums that are THRIVING reef aquriums. By the way just to let you know if you dont allready, these smaller tankes are usually called nano tanks, I dont really know if yours is considered a nano or not because most of the "nanos" I have seen are a gallon or soo. So if your researching stuff on the internet or what not, it might be usefull to try using the words "nano tank".

Ok now on to my personal opinon for the answers to your questions... rember I am still just a novice beginer myself... soo some of the guys on here might just have to give there opinions also :grinning: "variety is better" .

First question: "I was planning on using my "over the top" power filter.. Is that overkill? Should I NOT use such a device with a salt water tank?"

a. Tell you the truth I like skimmers and refugiums better, but on such a small quarium it is kind of hard to find one appliable, I do not belive that it would be overkill at all. I just saw an 18g nano tank that had a hang on back powerfilter that was amazing, it had full and vibrant coralline algae growing on everything. Soo what I am trying to say is that I have seen it work, but I do know that with a powerfilter u will probably have too stay on top of the maintenance of the aquaria, such as water changes and what not...

Second question:"From everything I've been reading online and talking with people about, it looks like the first thing to do is put down some live sand and live rock to get things started. The consensus seems to be 1" of sand and about 10-15 pounds of rock for the 10 gallon tank. There seems to be some disagreement on rock/sand. Do I put the rock on top of the sand, or dig it into the sand so that it rests on the bottom of the tank. (Once established there will only be two or three fish in it due to the small size. Probably a damsel and a clownfish.)"

a. This all seems like it is personal preferance. I would use atleast the amount of live rock you have mentioned, it might need more too look better, if not than that amount is fine. With the sand, I usually like to use at least a three inch fine sand for a nice "live sand bed" but since your tank is soo small it is up to you if you want to use a courser sized sand and only use 1/2" to 1" ( you will have more maintence this way but it might look better). Weither to put sand / rock in first this is up to you, just as long as the rock touches the bottom of the tank and is stable.

Final question: "Once sand and rock are in.. lights on or off? How long for it to cycle, using live sand and rock to start it off. Any third party bacteria I should add to speed things up, or let it work things out on its own."

a. Ok, I would leave the lights on a 12on/12off scedule and start making sure you have higher alkalinity and calcium levels just too help your coralline get a kick start. The nitrogen cycle will take at least a three weeks I would think... , if not longer (just monitor it) the longer the better, becuase a mature tank is allways better DONT RUSH THINGS people think that they are god with these things and set full blown tanks up in a matter of weeks... this is not the way you want to go... some might argue with me but argue away ( I just wont respond :laugh long: :p ) I dont really believe in third party bacteria , just let nature do its thang you know ?

Well Like I said the more experienced guy will probalbly give you a helping hand also "variety is better" soo I encourage them to do soo.

Good luck with your tank and I hope I have helped, now too all a good night!

-Tim]
 
[Here is a list of Local Fish Stores (LFS) in the metroplex.

http://www.melevsreef.com/lfs.html

And a brief overview:

http://www.melevsreef.com/overview.htm

I would recommend more sand, but that is a small tank. Be sure to rinse the filterpad in your HOB / HOT (Hang on Back / Hang on Tank) filter. You want the trapped detritus removed from the pad to avoid creating nitrates.

Lighting doesn't need to be on that long during the cycle. 6 to 8 hours is plenty.]
 
[Just my .02c for "third party bacteria" - if you do not buy the sand from the bottom of the tank at an LFS, but if you purchase the dry - get a cup of sand from somebody with an established tank. This will start things going pretty quickly.

I think you have to wait until the ammonia spike is over to do so, though.]
 
[Wahoo another Aggie!

Just my opinions. (Keep in mind they are worth what you paid :p )

The HOB filter will work fine and are great for circulation but as others have said you have to stay on top of your parameters and most likely do 20% or so changes weekly to keep them in line. I would have spares on anything that is not "replaceable". By that I mean if you have a biowheel or cartridges with carbon plan on either replacing or changing weekly. You don't want the nitrate producing bacteria it will grow. You can keep one soaking in 50% diluted vinegar while your using the other.

As far as the sand this is one where opinions are widely varying and cause huge debates but it's all opinion.

I would either go with at least 4 inches of sand and set up a fully functional Deep Sand Bed or go with a half inch or less.

If you decide to go with the shallow depth you will need to add vacuuming it to your maintenance routine.

Once your cycled a 12 hour light cycle works but anything from about 10-14 is considered acceptable. You may have some algea issues the longer you leave it on. As Marc said before livestock I would limit to about 8 to avoid algea blooms.

Take it slow. Let it run at least a month with nothing but a couple cleanup guys. You will start to see tons of life on the rock and in the sand. Some of the best systems I have seen went months before adding livestock!

I would add about 10 lbs live rock to start. When you start adding stuff it will have rock attached and so by the time your tank is full you will have probably closer to 15 lbs.

Once you don't detect anymore ammonia or nitrites start dosing (won't take much) ESV B-Ionic or similar and keep your calcium at ~400 and your alk in the 8-10dKh range. Note that you might be able to keep these levels with weekly water changes. This will help the coralline algea and stablize your system.

Have fun and ask tons of questions. A lot of members here have tons of experience and knowledge and share it freely.]
 
[I agree with most :) butI would do little to no sand, real estate is too valuable in a little tank like that. Also Dr Ron said a DSB is pointless unless used in a 55 or larger (dont ask why I dont know). I will never have another sandbed or at least nothing more than something just to cover the glass. You may even use more rock because you would utilize all the tanks dimensions.

You can just toss the biowheel as you have "bio" rock in the tank and it will handle your ammonia/nitrates. If you get good rock you will not need any "third party bacteria".
With a tank so small you might even consider doing a package from TBS or buying a small amount of rock from gulfview. You will be impressed with the rock and will cost about the same as the LFS.

Last but not least, you should take everything a LFS says with a grain of salt. They are just like used car salesmen and will tell you anything to turn a profit. Their are exceptions but NEVER buy something just becasue they said you "need" it. Come home, research, learn something and go back prepared. Also most equiptment can be bought online for half the price you would pay local.]
 
[OK, I realize that this will probably get me a "what rock did this idiot crawl out from" but... LFS = local fish store... what does TBS stand for? Does someone have a decent acronyms list so that I don't look like an idiot every day?

I bought the sand today. Nobody seems to have good rock in stock right now, so probably early next week for that.

I'm doing this with a 10g tank to see if I want to put the time effort and money into a salt setup. If I enjoy it, I will probably move up to a 55-100g next year.]
 
[this should help:

AC Activated carbon, chemical filtration media / alternating current
AFM Aquarium Fish Monthly, magazine
AGA All-Glass Aquarium, Aquarium manufacturer
AL Aqualink, aquarium bulletin board
ATS Algae turf scrubber, reef setup technique
BOD Biological oxygen demand
CC Counter current, type of protein skimmer
CSL Custom Sea Life, lighting manufacturer
CTA Cellulose triacetate, type of RO membrane
Cyano Cyanobacteria
DC Direct current
DD Downdraft, type of protein skimmer
DI Deionisation, type of water purification
DIY Do it yourself
DSB Deep Sand Bed
FAMA Freshwater and Marine Aquaria, magazine
FFE Flying Fish Express, Mail Order Company
FO Fish only
FOWLR Fish only with live rock
FW Freshwater
GBR Great Barrier Reef
GPH Gallons per hour
HO High output fluorescent light
HQI Mercury (Hg) Quartz Iodide, a type of metal halide lamp
IA Inland Aquatics, mail order company
IMHO In My Humble Opinion
IMO In My Opinion
IO Instant Ocean, brand of aquarium salt
IR Infrared
Kalk Kalkwasser, German for calcium hydroxide solution or limewater
LFS Local fish store
LHS Local hardware store
LPS Large polyped Scleractinian (stoney) coral
LR Live rock
LS Live sand
MACNA Marine Aquaria Conference of North America, held annually
MASNA Marine Aquarium Societies of North America
MD Marine Depot, mail order company
MH Metal halide light
MJ Maxijet, powerhead manufacturer
MM Miracle Mud, method of aquarium filtration
MO Mail order
NO Normal output fluorescent light
NSW Natural seawater
PA Premium Aquatics, mail order company
PC Power compact fluorescent light
PH Powerhead, water pump
PVC Poly vinyl chloride, used for piping / plumbing
RC Reef Central, aquarium bulletin board supreme
RC Reef Crystals, brand of aquarium salt
RDO Reefs.org ("reefs-dot-org"), aquarium bulletin board
RK Reef Keeping, on-line aquarium magazine
RO Reverse osmosis, type of water purification
RO/DI Reverse osmosis, followed by deionisation, type of water purification
RR Reef ready, aquaria with pre-drilled holes and overflows
RTN Rapid tissue necrosis, protozoal infection of corals; can be rapidly fatal if not treated
SG Specific gravity
SPS Small polyped Scleractinian (stoney) coral
SW Saltwater / seawater
TBS Tampa Bay Saltwater, Mail Order Company
TFC Thin film composite, type of RO membrane
TRT The Reef Tank, aquarium bulletin board
TWP Tap Water Purifier from Aquatic Pharmaceuticals
UGF Undergravel filter
UV Ultra violet light
VHO Very high output fluorescent light
W/D Wet-dry (a method of aquarium filtration)
WD Wet-dry (a method of aquarium filtration)]
 
[Live rock question - What am I looking for. (Meaning type, look/color, price, etc) Keep in mind that this is a 10 gallon tank and I'm new to this, so what might seem obvious to you I probably won't think of.]
 
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