eman's 250g build-log

Before I get started I have a few questions. I have never had an acrylic tank. The canopy is 9” above the acrylic. Can I put MH in the canopy with out melting the acrylic? The tanks dimensions are 78" long x 30" deep x 24" tall. I plan on stacking the rock in two islands with a ravine in between the islands. I would like two 250w MH, one over each island and T5’s around. I will be drilling this tank with two overflows. Can I use two mag 12’s for the return? I want to use what I have and not buy additional pumps, if they are not needed. I figure that I will have two 1” drains and two ¾” returns.

Thanks,
 
i think 9" is not tall enough you will be getting water splatter all over your lights also i would think being so small it will add heat to your tank. but that is my two cents..but I like the live rock idea for aquascaping
 
Troy ,

When I had my 120gal acrylic I ran 2-250w and 1-400w about 10in off the water. But mine didnt have center braces.
 
I don't think that the 1" drains could handle the flow. Maybe run one mag 12 and drill the tank for a closed loop.
 
Is there anywhere that has a scale on how large a drain verses how much return? I have not drilled the holes yet so I can do any size that I want. When I built my first setup I was told that I did not want but about 700gph running through my fuge to give the algae time to work. Is this true or can I run more gph than this and still accomplish what is needed for a working fuge?

I will build a larger canopy for the tank to accomplish the MH lighting or I will just go with T5's. T5's will be more energy efficient but I have only had VHO and don't know what kind of difference I will have with T5's. I do like the look with MH but I am only going with softies and LPS. What do you think?
 
Here is the calculator for drain size on RC;
http://www.reefcentral.com/calc/drain.php

Its all personal taste, but i would try to address any heat issues from the get go. Myself, im thinking about closing off my closed loop as I got a vortech to supplement my flow. Also, mag's are known heat producers.

If you want some inspiration, look at the 250 gallon tank of the month over on RC..wow!
 
Using two Mag 12s as return pumps means you'll be pushing a lot of water through the sump very quickly. This usually results in microbubble issues. All you need is one return pump. Keep your second pump as an emergency backup in case the return fails at some point. Flow through the sump and refugium can be slow and steady.

You can barely squeeze in the MH bulbs, but it can work. It would be best to add a secondary layer of acrylic on top of the tank, with some type of spacer between the faux top and the actual tank top. This allows the heat to vent out, and the faux top will take the brunt of the heat. If it cracks, you don't care as it can be easily replaced.
 
Reefmike ideal would be best with a 9" canopy or you could go with a retro kit and mount at the top of the canopy but still you bulbs may be 5 or 6 inches off the water and heat will be an issue. I'd build another canopy or go with T5's. Shouldn't need too many T5's with LPS and softy livestock.
 
Still no progress :cry: with the hail damage that needs repair and the robbery there has been no time to set up the tank yet. Plus I don't have a camera to take photos. Hopefully soon though.
 
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