A reef-ready hex tank & new sump - Just something to look at.

[A lot :D I shudder to think what the labor on the stand and canopy would have cost. Kay and I are very pleased with the end result and hope to have finnished pics of the stained stand and canopy soon.
Needless to say when Marc calls and says he needs some help, I will be busy working off my labor bill. :shocked: Hope it is cooler then than when we built it.

Thanks again Marc]
 
[Hey Marc !!! I need just a refugium just about that same size. If you are interested please let me know and I can get the exact measurments and maybe some pointers from you on setting it up.

Thanks
Todd
thehurts@swbell.net or 817-247-1476]
 
[Marc,

You are out of control, my friend... Another cool project!

Glenn,

Looks real nice! Let's see some pics of it set up soon!!]
 
[Hi guys,

Nick, the acrylic material ran about $130 total. The hex was already made, but Glenn wanted it modified so it would be reef ready instead. It came out really nice, but until it is set up and filled with LR, fish and corals and has a light over it, we'll never know! :oops:

Glenn, I didn't put any of the pictures of the stand and canopy because I knew you wanted to unveil those later. Or I can put some on that page if you like.

Todd, just email me the dimensions and I can put one together for you. :nod:

Duane, I went shopping for my router bit, and no-one has one smaller than 1/2" shank. :cry: However, I did pick up a new one anyway at Woodcraft (near Ridgmar Mall), and they suggested I mount the router on my router table, so the bit is pointed up. I could secure my jig on the material needing cutting, and use the bearing in my jig that way. Not exactly what I consider easy, but it is a work around. I saw some brass "collets" that act as a collar around the bit, and that is what traces within a jig, but they didn't have one for the DeWalt. :lookaround:

Also, I'm looking for a BIG bearing, like 1.5 to 2" in size. That would make it so much easier to cut out the top piece, using the bearing to trace along the inner edge as I route out the holes. Any suggestions? Also a straight 3/4" bit with a bearing would be nice as well.]
 
[Marc, post the stand and canopy pics if you want. I just wanted them so I can say someday WOW look at that setup It was fun, but way too HOT.]
 
@Marc wrote:
[Hi guys said:
[Marc,

Did that MLCS company have one that would work? Here's a whole nuther way of maybe tackling the problem...why not use a box joint jig and your table saw? You might have to attach the acrylic to a sacrificial backer board, but any scrap would do. I don't see why you couldn't go a little deeper than the usual box joint, and the width you could choose for yourself using a dado head. I've attached some links and with pics. What do you think?

http://www.woodmagazine.com/woodbasics/projects/boxjntjig.html

http://www.woodmagazine.com/woodbasics/projects/boxjntjig2.html

http://www.plansnow.com/boxjoint.html

http://www.mv.com/users/besposito/woodworking/boxjointjig.html (Bill Esposito is a fellow reefer, and a heck of a nice guy. He's the one that wrote the software program for X-10 based moon lighting control.)

http://store.yahoo.com/backissuesstore/sn008.html

http://www.newwoodworker.com/bxjiguse.html]
Click to expand...
 
[Thank you for all the link Duane. I'm going to give that some thought, and see if I can come up with a good system. Maybe a combination of the two...]
 
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