24 G Nano Build

T

timthetoolman

Not sure if this goes under tank build since it's a repair but here goes...so please move it if you need to Scott :D
We got this tank for $20, wasn't sure if it was a good idea because it is cracked in the back but we figured we would try our hand at it. Otherwise it was new without anything else such as lights and pumps and the inside filter box had been removed.
 
While at Lowe's the kid that worked there told me to get out of his glass cage and I explained I was trying to see what he had...I'm visual, I've got to see it but he wanted to explain it all to me so I said, 'Ok, let me think about it' and went to find the glue. Then I remembered I have black acrylic at home and I'll try it.
 
I cut a new back to go inside the tank and seal it up becoming the new back pane. The tank was drilled in the back already for the return and drain lines before it was cracked.
I didn't want to remove the silicone in the back so I moved the back pane forward with spacers.
 
I am 'burnishing' the edges. At least that's what I've always called it. I use the same technique Marc does (we must have read the same articles 12 years ago :lol: ) The only part I skipped was the jointer because they don't need to be exactly straight, just smooth for good glue contact.
 
This is it for tonight. Tomorrow we'll put a patch on the back and start looking at a stand and sump designs. I might end up making my own sump as well.
 
We were going to use a SQWD but I gave it away with the 55 gallon I had but I've seen a device that you put on the return line that spins around...can anyone chime in on this device?

I've got to come up with some lights too. I've got a 250w ballast but I think that's too much. Suggestions are welcome there too.

For a skimmer I have a 135 gallon capacity skimmer but unless it's fish only it will over skim.

...maybe I should have started another 125 gallon :lol:
 
Here's the final repair.
I put small blocking around the bulkheads too so it wouldn't break the glass and then put a patch over the crack. Tonia painted the trim piece to go on the edges to keep the sharp glass from cutting someone.
 
@timthetoolman wrote:
While at Lowe's the kid that worked there told me to get out of his glass cage and I explained I was trying to see what he had...I'm visual said:
So the kid at lowes had a glass cage and you were inside of it?
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Tim, i have my guesses about acrylic on the back panel and the silicone adhereing to acrylic........i am going to give this one a 50/50, but i really think that you need to get buckets and towels ready. :cry:
 
I didn't know that about acrylic. If it were a structural part I might agree with you. The back glass is still the structural piece and as long as the silicone sticks to the acrylic I think we'll be ok.
Why is there an issue with silicone and acrylic?
 
Actually, the first acrylic sump I built developed a small leak (the acrylic was too thin) and I used silicone and 11 years later it was still bonded but like this it's only to keep water in and not structural...and yes, I am trying to convince myself! :p
 
acrylic and silicone do not bond to each other. Acrylic and silicone will work in a sump but will not seal persay. the silicone will sill bond to the class and create a dam that will allow the silicone to stay in place and hold the water in, but will not seal it. if the pressure points of the glass were all held in place with silicone, such as the perimiter then i think you will be okay. to have just the three horizontal braces might be enough but i think you still need toget some buckets. If nothing eles, get a small piece of glass and seal the crack on the back and that should help.
 
@timthetoolman wrote:
We were going to use a SQWD but I gave it away with the 55 gallon I had but I've seen a device that you put on the return line that spins around...can anyone chime in on this device? said:
I just purchased one of those this weekend for my 24g JBJ. it is called a Hydor Flo and is around $20. It decreases the flo rate from the pump but I think the benefits of it definitely make up for that. I upgraded my pump to a MJ1200 before adding it so I guess I came out about even on the net flo rate.

I have read about 24gallon JBJs cracking especially if something is done to alter the structural integrity of it. Even cutting notches in the dividing wall between the tank and sump for additional returns can weaken it and cause cracks, according to the posts I read. I'm guessing based on that drilling the back did that tank in. I wouldn't trust if for anything but freshwater. Not because I doubt your repair skills, there is just too much investment in SW to risk putting it in a patched tank.
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not to say your wrong but these tanks are plenty strong to drill...happens all the time. the crack came after the tank was drilled courtesy of my wife. She hit it wit a glas plate right on the corner...glass and glasss do not mix very well!
 
@ttugrad95 wrote:
[I]@timthetoolman wrote:[/I][quote="We were going to use a SQWD but I gave it away with the 55 gallon I had but I've seen a device that you put on the return line that spins around...can anyone chime in on this device? said:
I just purchased one of those this weekend for my 24g JBJ. it is called a Hydor Flo and is around $20. It decreases the flo rate from the pump but I think the benefits of it definitely make up for that. I upgraded my pump to a MJ1200 before adding it so I guess I came out about even on the net flo rate.

I have read about 24gallon JBJs cracking especially if something is done to alter the structural integrity of it. Even cutting notches in the dividing wall between the tank and sump for additional returns can weaken it and cause cracks, according to the posts I read. I'm guessing based on that drilling the back did that tank in. I wouldn't trust if for anything but freshwater. Not because I doubt your repair skills, there is just too much investment in SW to risk putting it in a patched tank."]
Thanks, my pump is too big so I'll get the Hydor Flo and give it a try.
The tank was fine after it was drilled, except that maybe it shouldn't have been where it was :lol:
I'm confident it will work fine though. Pressure is the same throughout the tank which will be against the back wall. The pressure against that back plate is only 0.7 psi. I had a much smaller bead in the sump for all of those years. The only thing the strips are for are for spacing away from the glass. None of this modification is for sturctural material.
I am assuming they do not use silicone on acrylic because it is too slick unlike glass that is made up of small crystals...maybe someone with some knowledge will chime in.
The only concern I have is the spider cracks might continue to grow and the back glass break out. I think I will use another piece of glass on the back. Donnie, what was the chemical that will remove the silicone and I'll get rid of the acrylic patch on the back.
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I need you to update your thread like a responsible thread keeper should, geezzzzz, the least you could do is tell me if it is still holding water! :lol:
 
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