need some help setting up my seahorse tank

ok i have had this tank for about 5 years and it has been fresh and saltwater curantly it is a fresh water but as soon as i get the things that i need to get it up and running it will become my new sea horse tank but i need help with what i need . first things first it is a 72gallon bowface and i will have a 30gallon sump with a dsb so what i need to know is what kind of return pump and what should i have as far as turn over and do i realy need power heads in the tank if i run my return pump to 1 or 2 squids and use it for the flow what do you think ????? the tank is not rr so i know that i need an overflow box and though that i would try and build one right on the tank and i will also have live rock and a shallow sand bed in the main tank what i would like to know is if you had this tank for a sea horse only tank what and how would you set it up thanks in advance for the help and one more thing what about lighti have none for it right now im not planning on having corals or any thing in it but algea and some fake plants and maybe a few fake corals also i would like to know what kind of horse would you put in there i know that i dont want any dwarfs couse i couldnt see them from acoss the room so something that will be atlest 2to3 inches and how many would you put in there
 
I love to see new seahorse tanks going up....

First of all flow: As I'm sure you know seahorses are not great swimmers therefore low flow tanks are most suitable 3-5X turnover an hour is usually recommended. I ran mine a little higher than that and didn't have seahorses getting blown around the tank. I'd actually shoot somewhere between 5-10x (if you have more flow you can always adjust it a valve)..too little and you need to get another pump! If you get your squids adjusted right you might not need powerheads. Being so low flow, and lots of food going in -Seahorse tanks are prone to algae big time, and therefore usually a small powerhead is used here and there to add flow to a no flow corner.

You might try going (gasp) sumpless on the tank. My first seahorse tank was a 30 gallon tall eclipse non drilled and I also had a 30 gallon hex non-drilled. Of course sumps are nice for all the clutter and being able to put fans on them etc but it is a thought -it really isn't mandatory for a seahorse tank.

As for lights -this is tough. Simple PC's are maybe a couple of T5's -you don't want anything that puts out too much heat. Seahorses do like hitching in macro beds and people often end up using macro in their tanks so you'd want something bright enough to sustain macro growth if you want to go that route. Gorgonians are nice looking and great for seahorse hitching posts but alas don't usually fare too well in seahorse tanks due to the low flow so I'd probably steer clear of them. Featherdusters are good tankmates.

As for species -you'll definitely want to pick from the Tropical species. Do you want to raise fry? If so you'd be better off choosing a pelagic species (hitches at birth) over the ones that don't. They are much easier to raise. H. Fuscus and H. Erectus are two that I've had experience with. H. Kuda and H. Reidi are popular too, but their fry are tougher to raise. As for numbers...with a 72 you could have several pair but I'd start off probably with just one pair -see how they fare, and see if you really like them as they are quite an investment.

My biggest issues with seahorse tanks (and the reason I don't have them now) is temperature control. If possible plumb your sump with the pump EXTERNALLY. I did this with one set up and was able to keep temps pretty moderate with just fans.

Good luck, I can't wait to see the tank build!
 
Temp is an issue. You should keep the temp no higher than 78 deg. I have a 45 hex plumbed into my 210. I keep the whole system at 76 degrees. Live rock in the tank is good also..seahorses will snack on the pods in the live rock.
 
thanks for the advice as for the sump i am a big fan of deep sand beds an i know that the horses need the virtical room so it would be best for me to use a sump not to mention it will keep all the other unsightly things out of sight ok when you talk about turn over is that the tank valume without any thing in it or are we talking just what it holds after when it has all the rock and sand in it
 
@CarolynM wrote:
Cabo; How do you keep your tanks at 76? With a chiller or cold cold A/c?? said:
I use a 1/10th hp chiller...I get away with a small chiller because of my LED lights.
 
I guess I'm lucky that my wife keeps it cold enough to hang meat in our house. $550+ electric bill a month, but I won't need a chiller!
 
My sh tank has a bit higher flow. The low flow idea is being relooked at as many sh owners have discovered that sh actually enjoy a stronger flow. Many will sh will play in the return flow. I think that my turn over is around 11x and I know people that have it up closer to 20. You just want to be sure that there are areas of lower flow that they can rest in when they want to.

I recommend lots of macro in the tank and populating with pods. The seahorses will enjoy hunting the pods between feedings. I have some C. prolifera that sh really like that I can sell you some of (currently not in a sh tank) if you are interested.

The temp on the tank for tropical seahorses should be 75* or less (down to 72*). This keeps the bacteria levels down and will keep them healthier.

As far as lighting goes, sh don't need any special lighting. It depends on what you want to keep with them. T5's are probably best since they will give you the most options for tank mates. I've seen T5's at Petsmart recently and they are priced nicely.

I would pick up seahorses from Seahorse Source (http://seahorsesource.com/index.html) or Seahorse Corral (http://seahorsecorral.com/cart/). Both places have really nice horses and if you are looking for something different, Beth at Seahorse Corral has some awesome multi colored horses.
 
Here is an article that I wrote to help people set up a seahorse tank. :)


So you want to set up seahorse tank. Welcome to the obsession.

The Tank
The fist thing I recommend is to buy the largest tank you can afford, but no smaller than a 29 high, unless you are planning on keeping dwarf seahorses, but I am talking about the larger species here and will get to dwarf keeping at another time.

Seahorses like tall tanks. A good rule of thumb for tank height is 3 times the full-grown length of the seahorse species you want to keep. Most of the larger seahorses are between 6-8 inches in length so you would want a tank that is 20-24 inches deep at a minimum.

Filtration and Flow
Once you choose your tank you need to decide on filtration. Seahorses are hard on the bioload of a tank so over filtering is a great way to go. Get a big sump or refugium for the tank. You can use canister filter, but be sure to get one that is rated for a tank that is larger than what you have and be sure to do regular monthly maintenance. I would also recommend weekly 10% water changes when using a canister filter. A protein skimmer is another piece of equipment you?ll want to have in your sump or as a hang on the back type if you are using a canister filter.

The flow rate in a seahorse tank should be on the lower side, but not too low. A turnover rate around 10-15 times per hour is good. You should also provide areas of lower flow when setting up the aquascaping in the tank for resting spots. Be sure to cover anything in the tank that a seahorse could get their tail stuck in and/or injured on. Powerhead intakes and heaters can seriously hurt a seahorse. The best place for a heater is in the sump.

Contents: Sand. Rock and Clean up Crew
Live sand and Live Rock work well in seahorse setups. They will help keep the tank cleaner and make for a nice natural setting for the tank. Be sure to do a hyper salinity (very high salinity) dip on the live rock before adding to the tank to help rid it of any unwanted pests. After the tank has cycled adding various types of macro algae will also be good. The macros will provide hitches for the seahorses as well as places for pods to hang out for the seahorses to eat. Many types of macros will also help remove nitrates from the water. Adding a clean up crew will round out your tank. Snails like nerites, nassarius, and ceriths are great scavengers and will help keep the tank clean. I also keep scarlet hermit crabs in my tank to help eat any leftover food and algae that grows on the rocks. Peppermint Shrimp are also great CUC members.

Temperature
Another thing you will want to get is a chiller. But I am getting tropical seahorses you say. You will still want a chiller. It is best to keep a seahorse tank around 72-75*. This helps to keep the bacteria levels down so the horses will stay healthier.

Lighting
Seahorses don?t need special lighting. What you are putting in with them may require special lighting though. If you go with higher output lights be sure to have areas where the seahorses can get out of the light. 8-10 hours of light is a good photoperiod amount.


Quarantine
Before you order your seahorses be sure to set up a quarantine tank for them to go into when you first get them. This way you can observe them and make sure that they are OK and eating before placing them in to the display tank. A bare bottom 10-gallon tank with hitches works well for this. You will need to do daily water changes and siphon out the poo to help keep the ammonia levels down. An ammonia level alert tag in the tank is a good idea too. Three to four weeks should be long enough in quarantine.

Where To Find Quality Seahorses
When purchasing seahorses be sure to get seahorses that are captive bred. There is some confusion on the difference between captive bred, tank raised, and wild caught. Captive bred means that the seahorse was born and raised in a tank. Tank raised is usually a wild caught seahorse that was caught as a juvenile and raised to adulthood in a tank. They are basically the same as wild caught. Purchasing captive bred seahorses will benefit not only the ocean?s population of seahorses, but your wallet as well since your seahorse will be healthier. I highly recommend purchasing seahorses from Seahorse Source. They are excellent breeders and offer great customer service. Your seahorses will arrive happy to see you and healthy. Seahorses can be kept singly, or in pairs and groups. Most seahorses will be happier if kept in pairs or groups though. If you don?t want to raise fry same sex tanks are fine to set up. Most people go with females when doing this so they don?t need to worry about pouch trouble.

Tank Mates
Seahorses typically do best in a species only tank but there are a few fish that will work as tank mates. You?ll want to choose fish that aren?t aggressive or won?t out compete the seahorse for food. You will also want to be sure that any corals you put in the tank with them won?t sting them and can also hold up to being hitched on.

Feeding
Seahorses have very short digestive tracks and need to be fed at least twice a day. Feed a high quality food like PE Mysis or Hikari Mysis. Gut loaded live ghost shrimp, or adult brine shrimp make a tasty treat for seahorses and will help get them some extra nutrition. Use products like flake food, NatuRose or spiralina for gut loading and feed them once or twice a week. Watching seahorses eat live food can be quite entertaining.


Life Span

When properly cared for seahorses can live for 5 or more years. I know of some that have lived over 8 years.


Seahorses are great pets to have as long as you can provide a proper environment and care for them. They are very personable and will really get under your skin. They become a part of your family much like a dog or cat will.
 
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