Which return pump to use

W

Wackydaffy

Hi, I have a 150 gallon tank with 2 what I believe are 1" bulkheads predrilled in 2 corners. I will be running a refugium. I have a panworld pushing 1200gph for my skimmer. I was wondering what return pump to use. I was told by the guy at marine depot that the reeflo dart that is rated for 3600gph. Is that too much for my tank? Any help is greatly appreciated.


Thanks,

Kevin
 
would be too much if just used for a return pump. you could however use it to run the skimmer and be a return pump and probably be ok.

your 1" holes will do about 1200 gph and if you need the 1200 gph to your skimmer, then with plumbing loss and everything you will might be ok. if not, you will just be over a little bit and those pumps can be turned down using a ball valve just after the output.

great pump btw and they do have a smaller version of the same brand pump called a snapper you could use and still run both items off it, return and skimmer.
 
Also keep in mind that the maximum flow rate is 3600gph, but it varies dependent on the return. You'll probably have between 2500-3000 gph...

Here are the dart specs:

DART
HEAD FLOW WATT
FEET GPH DRAW
0 3600 145
4.0 3,035 152
7.0 2,428 155
10.0 1,520 146
12.0 630 125
 
Thanks for the reply guys. I am going to keep the panworld for the skimmer, and I am thinking about buying a reeflo snapper for the return. If it is still too much I will do the ball valve method. Still the snapper does 2400gph. So isn't that too much?


I am not quite sure I understand how the ball valve method works. Just estimating here, but if you have an overflow of 1000gph, and your return is rated to 1200, assuming nothing goes away from head pressure, that would still leave 200 to go somewhere. If you had a ball valve returning it to the refugium, then your sump would continously rise with the excess. Am I wrong here?
 
@Wackydaffy wrote:
I am not quite sure I understand how the ball valve method works. Just estimating here said:
I think you have it backwards in your mind. The Ball Valve goes on the Reeflo so you can turn it down and remove that extra 200 gph if it's too much for the overflows.

You can put a Ball Valve on the refugium supply line and tune that as long as the line goes to the sump as well. If you turn down the fuge then it will just increase the flow into the sump and if it's too much for the sump you can turn down the pump.

Ok... Now you should be REALLY confused. :)
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I am not quite sure I understand how the ball valve method works. Just estimating here said:
No. It will maintain a constant level. Remember, you're not talking about the volume of water. Only the rate at which it is moved. You may be diverting 200gph back to the sump but you're still pulling 1200gph out.
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If the tank is 4' then get the Snapper but if it's longer, and even if it's not, I would get the Dart because you can throttle them back but if they don't have the flow you want later if you add some devices then you're stuck. I have a Snapper on my 125 but it's going through an ocean motion device and I was hoping for more flow. I'm guessing that the OM is restricting the flow.
If you used just the Dart and sell the Pan World I think you would be happier. Less noise, less electricity, and I don't know about the Pan World but the Reeflo pumps are quiet. You can get them locally, but they order them in.
If you don't get rid of the other pump then the Snapper will be fine for just a return pump.
 
! have a 150 RR oceanic with 2 corner 1" bulk heads,

I just installed the reeflo DART 3 weeks ago and LOVE IT!

I have it running my skimmer (600GPH) and the rest goes to the returns. I can shut off the skimmer and have the pump running full force to the display and its still not too much flow. Perfect.

-Austin
 
$149?!?!?! Plus free shipping?!?!?!

I wish I had have known!! I just bought mine for $249!! (But its the new one with the new motor...)
 
As everyone else has mentioned, your best option would be to get the Dart. The pump is super quiet and very efficient at what is is designed to do. I have one on my 210 gallon and it is feeding everything for my tank from manifolds.
 
Alright, great help everyone! Okay, I just placed an order for the DART old motor. The pan world was already on the way, so either I will be able to return it, or I guess I will just be able to keep it as a backup :)

Thank you everyone, the concept of the ball valves seems to be creeping into my head, hopefully soon I will be able to completely understand it :)
 
you got the last one, add a ball valve and feed your skimmer with it. You will love it, promise! when you get ready to plumb, ask questions if you need to, dont plumb it and have to redo it cause you missed something, we are all here to help.

:( - i was so ready to do a manifold and missed it - :(
 
several smaller feeds with ball valves off the main return line to supply smaller items. like he wants to feed a skimer so he would add a single outlet, i want to feed a skimmer, calcium reactor, and a phosban reactor which would make it more into a manifold system. place t's as it goes up or over with individual ballvalves and an output connnector and you are good to go. wacky will simply place a t after the main output (make primary return a strait passthrough btw) the a ballvalve off that t to control flow feed to the skimmer.
 
Ah, okay. Everything is making more sense. Actually I was also going to run a calcium reactor and a phosban reactor. I had just assumed that I had to have small individual pumps for those. So what you are saying is that I can create a manifold to use the pumps extra power and divert it to those as well with ball valves? So, one pump to run everything?
 
@Wackydaffy wrote:
Ah said:
Exactly. From a standpoint of minimizing electricity usage, using a manifold in my opinion is the best way to conserve some electricity. Since this looks to be your first setup, I would suggest that if money does not have too many constraints that you go with the best equipment that you can to save you in the long haul. You can even get equipment in stages, just make sure that you plan for it in the beginning. The more you plan, the better off you will be. Others and me have learned a lot through the forum and from the school of hardknocks (making some mistakes $$$).


This is what a manifold looks like:
DSCF1083.jpg
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0617080654.jpg
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DSCF1003.jpg
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To get a better idea of manifolds, check out my build log:
http://www.dfwmas.org/Forums/viewtopic.php?t=47245&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=0


As I stated earlier, I only have the Dart feeding everything in my system (ozone reactor, calcium reactor, 2 media reactors, both returns). I setup two manifolds, one main and one secondary. On the secondary manifold is where I feed the reactors. Now that you have decided on your pump, start designing your plumbing for everything that you THINK you will use now and in the future.
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Forgot one important item when plumbing, make darn sure that you use ball valves and unions where needed. Doing so will make it much easier to fix issues, re-plumb, remove pump for cleaning, etc. You can also get true-union ball valves that work great. Lowes sell true-union ball valves (cost a few dollars more but are awesome). I couldn't find them at Home Depot when I was plumbing my tank. Wackydaffy, start a build log so we can track your progress. Also will help you get a lot of feedback.

[[Happy Reefing.]]
 
Thank you for the pictures and the link to your build. I will start my own as well then. One more question though, what pvc glue should I use, brand, type?

Thank you!
 
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