what do you consider low light moderate light and high light

how many watts per gallon with vho. i know it doent penatrate the water as well as others but its all this poor boy can afford right now to light a standard 125 gallon tank. i have 440 watts right now 10 inches off the water . that is 3.52 watts per gallon. im gunna add another 220 watts when money alows to get it to 5.28. im really trying to figure out what types of other corals to purchase ive had good luck with lps and softies and ive got a tiny frag of sps somone gave me and i havnt killed it yet.
 
That is plenty of light to keep just about anything in the hobby with the exception of wild acros. If you could lower your lights to within 6" of the water's surface it would be better. Also keep light demanding corals (acropora) and clams within the top 12" of the water collumn. If your water quality and husbandry skills are in tip top shape then you will be sucesseful.

On a side note....watts per gallon isn't a great way to determine what can and can't be kept with regards to lighting.
 
i know watts pergallon really doesnt mean much but it atleast gives me an idea of what i can keep and how high in the tank they need to be placed. the reason the lights are so high is i want to eventuall add mh to the tank. I have always been able to keep higher light corals with very little vho but it survives it ddint thrive. now my softies and lps always thrived. i just want a good mixture of corals for the tank.
 
Sorry to resurrect this thread, but are these translations accurate?
•Low Light 1-2 watts per gallon translates to about 30-50 PAR

•Medium Light 2-3 W/G is between 50-150 PAR

•High Light is anything over 3 W/G 150 PAR
 
@Sherman wrote:
Sorry to resurrect this thread said:
You really cannot translate watts per gallon into PAR like that and any answer will just be a best guess. Have you considered checking out the club's PAR meter and measuring the light level's over your tank? This will give you information you can use when placing coral's in your tank. I am sure the info in this link will answer a lot of your questions. [smilie=smile.gif]

http://www.livingreefs.com/corals-and-lighting-t839.html

Lateral Lines: Classification and Terminology For Reef Aquarium Lighting


By: Adam Blundell, M.S.

Keywords: Adam Blundell, Clades, Lateral Lines, Lighting, PAR Meter, Zooxanthellae

Note: Classifying corals
based upon light requirements is certainly not taxonomic. As a trained cladisian I much prefer parsimonious clades. However, in terms of captive husbandry, lighting requirement classification is of great use. Popular (and very well written) books on coral husbandry currently include Aquarium Corals (Borneman 2001) and Corals (Sprung 1999). These two books are a necessity for marine hobbyists. Of course both books provide general lighting requirement information for nearly all common aquarium corals.

In 1999 Julian Sprung published his fantastic book on corals. In that publication Sprung uses a bar graph system to add values to the lighting needs of corals. These scales may be narrow or wide as needed and covers a range from 0 (the lowest) to 10 (the highest). The range does not describe what those numbers correlate with in terms of lumens, watts, photosynthetically active radiation (PAR), or bulbs. And how could they?
In the authors' opinion the scale formed by Sprung is ideal. We personally find it very disheartening to see the scale unused in common aquarium conversations. Instead, what has unfortunately happened is a growth in popularity of the terms low, med, high.

Experienced aquarists agree that while corals naturally adapt to varying lighting situations, certain guidelines and levels are required for differing corals. A nominative scale is currently used in the aquarium hobby as low light, medium light, and high light. For corals with a wider range of light tolerance terms are used such as low to medium or medium to very high levels of light.

What I am proposing here is a new classification system to replace the old terms. The scale is based upon the experiences of hobbyists that I have compiled into my classification chart. The idea here is to incorporate a more accurate lighting measurement with familiar terminology. For this reason we are using Sprung's breakdown of lighting ranges and correlating them with measurable units. For this proposed scale we are using PAR levels as our standard (pros and cons listed below in the side text section).

Coral families and corresponding light requirements (taken from Sprung 1999)

Table 1:
Sprung's Lighting Charts/ Coral Lighting Range
Stylophora/ 4-10
Briareum/ 3-10
Pocillopora/ 4-10
Pachyclavularia/ 3-9
Acropora/ 4-10
Alcyonium/ 2-9
Montipora/ 3-8
Sarcophyton/ 3-10
Fungia/ 3-10
Nephthea/ 4-10
Euphyllia/ 3-8
Dendronephthya/ 0
Blastomussa/ 2-7
Tubastraea/ 0

Now comparing that to what I have found (conversing with fellow aquarists) to be light levels measured in PAR (µmol·m²·sec). These are measured values in home aquariums
with ranges formed by the recommendations of the tank owners.

Table 2: Aquarist's Lighting Recommendations

Coral/ PAR (µmol·m²·sec)

Stylophora/ 700-1000
Briareum/ 200-700
Pocillopora/ 600-900
Pachyclavularia/ 200-700
Acropora/ 600-1000
Alcyonium/ 200-800
Montipora/ 400-800
Sarcophyton/ 200-800
Fungia/ 600-900
Nephthea/ 200-900
Euphyllia/ 200-700
Dendronephtya/ Not Recommended
Blastomussa/ 200-600
Tubastraea/ Not Recommended

And finally comparing average PAR (µmol·m²·sec) values with common terms.

Table 3:

Blundell's Lighting Scale/ 1-10 scale/ µmol·m²·sec

Low Light/ 0-4/ 0-400
Medium Light/ 5-6/ 500-600
High Light/ 7-8/ 700-800
Very High Light/ 9-10/ 900-1000

Conclusion: Wait a minute… is it really that simple? Does the scale of 0-10 really match up with a scale of 0-1000? Surprisingly yes? While I feel a bit rash in making that conclusion I am going to say it anyway. With the review of colleagues this article has been 6 months in the making. After that much time it still appears that this is indeed the case. Based upon this the author acknowledges that the use of common terms (while not as precise as actual measurements) is completely acceptable and fitting for the aquarium hobby.
DisclaimerThere is one major item of importance here. While this scale does represent common perception in the hobby, it is still quite likely that the perception is wrong. One counter
point to this article is the current work of Dana Riddle. Riddle's studies show that hobbyist may be frequently (if not always) over illuminating their aquariums to begin with (Riddle, unpublished at the time of this article submission). The scale presented here may need to be altered (significantly?) in the future; but for now this scale represents the terminology in our hobby today. Nevertheless, lighting at least for the foreseeable future will be continuously debated.

Final Note: This article is dedicated to Julian Sprung. Simply put - he is a great guy and I appreciate his friendship. Thanks Julian.

Author Information: Adam Blundell M.S. works in Marine Ecology, and in Pathology for the University of Utah. He is also Director of The Aquatic & Terrestrial Research Team, a group which utilizes research projects to bring together hobbyists and scientists. His vision is to see this type of collaboration lead to further advancements in aquarium husbandry. While not in the lab he is a member of one of the Nation's largest hobbyist clubs, the Wasatch Marine Aquarium Society (http://www.utahreefs.com). Adam has earned a BS in Marine Biology and an MS in the Natural Resource and Health fields. Adam can be found at adamblundell@hotmail.com.

References
-Borneman, E.H., (2001) "Aquarium Corals selection, husbandry, and natural history", T.F.H. Publications. Neptune City, NJ, USA.
-Riddle, D., (2005) Personal communication, and possible future publication.
-Sprung, J., (1999) "Corals: a quick reference guide", Ricordea Publishing. Miami, FL, USA.

Adam Blundell, M.S.

Last modified 2006-01-15 13:25
 
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