thougts on acceptable ORP setpoints

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dp1416

What are you guys running your ORP levels at? I am going to configure my Octopus controller an wanted to know what levels are acceptable and when i should set my alarms and my "dosing intervals"

The manual shows an acceptable level between 200-450mV.

Keep in mind i am running 300 + 45ish in my sump and i plan on housing a few tangs (tang police - woo-hoo).

It says that it needs up to 48hrs to stabalize the probe and last night the reading was around 240ish (seems low to me). I do have a lot of surface agitation and currently i have

Vlamingi 5-6in
Atlantic Blue 4in
sailfin 4in

Any help you can provide will be greatly appreciated. i plan on getting an ozone generator since i have the ORP control on the controller, will i need on or will a 290+OPR reading be enough without ozone?
 
my eventual wish list is going to include

Blonde Naso
Sohoal
Achilles
Hippo

Then no more tangs for me, 7 will be more than enough :wink:
 
It will start climbing for a few days after you stick it in. Probably about 3-4 days to settle at the right reading. Then you ave to clean the probe off at least once a month(I need to do that), that will make the reading drop again to a low false reading. You then wait for it to rise again. I think mine is set to shut off the ozone at about 375. I never gets that high on mine with a 100mg ozonizer on a 220 gallon tank.
 
I have a 100 mg Red Sea. It works fine. I had to replace it at about 2-1/2 years it quit working. I have 100 mg unit because it is big enough for my needs an still is hard to over dose my system.
Ozone generator
 
couple items

it took over a week for my probe to settle in

my ORP is set at 370

I have to clean the probe weekly - even a little slime algae throws off the reading

ORP is not oxygen level, there is a good read on this on reefcentral - I'll see if I can find he link later. ORP is a ballace of oxidizers and what they break down. if one or the other are out of sync (like if something dies in the tank) the ORP reading will change (something dies ORP drops as the ballace changes)

Ozone is just one type of oxidizer, but can be very lethal in high numbers.

So if something dies, ORP drops, ozone generation increases and you could be causing more harm then good. You can easily pump too much into your system and kill beneficial bacteria that further reduces ORP.

Therefore, IMHO, it's better to undersize your ozone generation then to oversize.

I use ozone for two reasons
1) help control of Ich (not eliminate just curb)
2) water clarity - by breaking down heavy elements that discolor water

I don't use it to increase oxygen levels, do this by increasing water turnover, surface agitation and areation (like from a skimmer)
 
good insight as well. i have plent of turnover, probably too much for my tank but we will see. right now i have

2 - 6100s on a multi controller (run full speed on 7905 multi controller) 6000gph
2 - koralia 4s on the back wall 2400gph
1 closed loop dart - 3600gph
1 dolphin ampmaster (return and skimmer) 3000gph

This is about 15000k turnover without head loss...so even at 5000k loss it is still about 10k...so i think i am okay in that department.

Nothing is stressing or anything like that, i really wanted to understand the ORP a little more and this is helping a lot. thanks for all of the input.
 
10,000 on 300G is not extreme by any means. It's perfectly fine but not to much.

I don't run ozone now but when i did I always put the come on at 350 or below and off at 400. It rarely got above 375or so.
 
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