I don't want to offend the powers in being, so I started this thread and hope that it is ok to start with a quote from another person in the other post
@hooterhead wrote:
@hooterhead wrote:
Thanks guys. On the test kit subject. Why would you use a kit that you know may be 25ppm off? This is why we use refractometers instead of hydrometers. They are more accurate. A small adjustment in certain parameters can mean the difference between growth and no growth. Color in your coral vs poo-poo brown. If you've got mushrooms and kenya trees said:No offense, but when I searched your product list I did see that you sell API test kits, but you advocate not using cheap test kits? Do you suggest that API is an accurate kit, more so then Red Sea Pro which in a test showed comparable to Elos? And I certainly have seen some expensive test kits for sure, but the price of the RSP I personally don't consider a "cheap test kit." And I certainly agree that the optimal window for a great coral is much smaller than the acceptable range that is generally used, but if you want to use the "25" as an error point, and your calcium, which from what most say should be 450 or so, if it's 425 or 475 it will have an effect on the growth/color of a coral? That's interesting as I've seen beautiful tanks where the owner keeps their level at or near 500 and I've seen equally beautiful tanks at 400. As far as the hydrometer (and again, I know that most LFS do sell them) a variance of .02 or more in a salinity is crucial. When Mr. Bimmerz suggested over and over to all newbies (yep that's me) that they throw away their hydrometers, I went running out and bought a refractometer and what was showing as 1.025 on my hydrometer was infact closer to 1.022, (but then again, I've not visited a fish store that didn't sell hydrometers...) That is a serious difference, much more so than a slight difference in a calcium or alk. reading. I see a review by someone in the hobby I trust and he says he'd use a particular test kit, then I'm game.