T5 actinic question

Ok, so what is the difference between 420 and 460 nano meters as far as which one would i want in a four lamp setup. I was thinking two 10000k's and one 420 actinic and one 460 actinic. I did notice that the 460 is a hair cheaper i believe. Thanks for the input.
 
@ceriff wrote:
Ok said:
Nanometers are the wavelength of the light emitted. Someone correct me if I am wrong here, but the lower (420) is a bluer wavelength than the 460. The intesity of the wavelengths that are emitted are important..

I think going with the choices you mentioned would be fine and cover all bases.
 
The 420 is the true actinic. That is the purple like bulb that pops out flourescents. The 460 is the blue bulb, less actinic. One 420 true actinic is all that is needed to make the flourescents pop. The 460 would "blue tint" the water a little to offset the 10k's. If this is PC we are talking about, I had this exact set up once... it looked good for PC bulbs.
 
im runing 10k/ 10k 10 k and 460k on my 12g. aqapod and i looks grate on 2 pc 36w bulbs if you like to pull out the natral color . if you whant to go more blue go 10k/10kand 460k/460k
 
Sorry, I missed the "T5" subject line. If you have a 4 bulb set up you could really do somethings here to bring out some color.

Something like a: (front to back)
UV True Actinic
ATI Aquablue (14k)
ATI Blue Plus
ATI Aquablue (14k) OR ATI 10k

I like the Aquablues because it's a deeper color. That set up with the 14k's would be gorgeous, IMO.
 
What I'm running:

Geisemann Powerchrome (F to B)
Actinic Plus
Pure Actinic
Midday 6K
Actinic Plus
Aquablue
Actinic Plus
 
@Matt wrote:
Good for you! Weren't we talking about these fixtures last November? :lol: said:
Yeah ... we were, I took your advice and I'm happy with them. They're great. They run way cooler then my PC and are about half the wattage. So i'll be interested to see in the next few months how everthing takes to it.
 
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