switch to leds, but still heat issues...

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denierlexiese

Premium Member
Can pumps in the water put off 6 degrees of heat?

I have a small heat problems, please help! Thank you!!

I change out my lights to leds - specifically the d 120w. I have only one unit. To the touch they are pretty cool [especially compared to metal halides]. Where is this heat coming from???!!!!

I have:

2 jebao wp-25
1 100 gallon external reef octopus skimmer
4 return rio pumps, 1x rio 800 [200 gph], 2x 2100 [700 gph], 1x rio 1100 [400 gph]
1 120 watt, 55x 2watt leds
1 20 watt led grow light for refuge

My reef tank size is 56 gallons.

I have hand touched each pump. Each seem cool to the touch in the water. I took out my 9watt uv light because the pump seem slightly warm in the water.

House temperature is 73 degress. My cichlid tank next to this tank with no heater follows the house temp pretty closely.

73 degree house temp, salt tank will creep up .1 degrees every 30 minutes or so until it hits the chiller temperature of 79. Any ideas to diagnose or experience with a heat issue like this to share?

Thanks!!!
 
What about the 20w led grow light. Rios do put off some heat and not sure why you have that many with 2 wp-25s. Maybe sell them and buy another wp-25. Sure your heater is not Turing on? 73 seems kinda cool for a reef tank. Also are you running your heat right now? If so is it blowing on the tank? Do you have open top to help withy oxogen exchange?


Sent from pay phone in the airport.
 
I can't tell you exactly how much heat a pump can add, but I can tell you they add a lot of heat. I have a fan that my Apex turns on when the water gets too warm. When I was running a Mag 12 return and a Mag 9.5 closed loop, the fan was on at least 12 hrs a day. Last August I swapped them out for DC pumps that run cooler (Waveline 4000 and Waveline 6000). My fan stopped running completely, and I even saw the heater kick on a few times in September. Based on what I have seen I wouldn't be surprised if 50-75% of the power an AC pump draws is turned in to heat.
 
The heater won't turn on because it's on it's own temperature outlet. It's the stc-1000 - cheap ranco like temperature controller.

I have 4 rios all in the refugium. Two returns to main tank, 800 gph main return, and 400 gph backup return, then 1 700 gallon rio to skimmer, 1 800 gallon to purgien cannsiter. The purigen pump one could probably be changed to lesser pump like a rio 300 gph if I unclog the purigen system a bit [ change right angle connecters from straight to keep tube from bending, coming out of cannister, and take out 1/4 of purigen for easier purigen flow.
 
@Titus wrote:
I can't tell you exactly how much heat a pump can add said:
Titus what temp do you run your house at in the summer, and your tank?

My goal was to be able to run my house at 76-79 and my tank at 78-81. Is that unrealistic with salt water pumps?

Right now I'm at, run my house at max 73, and tank at 77-79 without chiller support
Click to expand...
 
@denierlexiese wrote:
[I]@Titus wrote:[/I][quote="I can't tell you exactly how much heat a pump can add said:
Titus what temp do you run your house at in the summer, and your tank?

My goal was to be able to run my house at 76-79 and my tank at 78-81. Is that unrealistic with salt water pumps?

Right now I'm at, run my house at max 73, and tank at 77-79 without chiller support"]
In the summer, my AC is programmed to re-set to 78 every 6 hours. It never fails that someone bumps it down a degree or 2, but it will go back to 78 on its own. I believe my sump fan is set to come on if the tank gets to 79, and goes back off once it brings it down to 78.5. So my tank with LEDs and DC pumps seems to be able to stay within 1 degree of room temperature.

I had another tank set up last summer with T5s in a canopy and an AC pump. Even with a fan, I had to leave the canopy hood open all summer to keep it under 80 in the same house.
Click to expand...
 
I can tell you right now... our house usually stays around 75 in the summer, and I HAVE TO keep the ceiling fan on in my tank room or my tank overheats (over 80). I use LEDs and I don't use a chiller, the evap keeps the tank cool enough because it's open top. All your accessories put off a little heat, so it adds up quickly. You may think about setting up a manifold to send water to everything in your sump area, that way you only need 1 or 2 pumps down there.
 
As you can see for the last week my temp is within 1 degree. I have my heater kick on at 79 and off at 79.5. My house is set to 72 last week no heat running as house has been about 72-74. I run leds and DC pump now as well. I have have one return line that feeds my reactors so no need for second or third pump. Summer my tank stays at 80-82. I don't run a chiller but thought about adding a fan over the water.[attachment=0]ImageUploadedByTapatalk1392855680.572619.jpg[/attachment]


Sent from pay phone in the airport.
 
@denierlexiese wrote:
texreffer -- essentially your saying use 1 return pump and have everything with valves come off from it via pvc pipes? said:
Thats what I'm doing here is a pic of someone else's tank that you can see how its fed will grab a pic of mine later if you want.


Sent from pay phone in the airport.
Click to expand...
 
I'm surprise the dc pump doesn't put off a lot of heat. Doesn't it run at 80 watts electricity?

Also if you run a return manifold doesn't that mean one point of failure for the return? Isn't there a concern of the pump dying?
 
Also mine is 85 watts but its converted outside the tank to DC power. I use the 12000 from here. I'm running about 75% right now as I have heard that it puts off louder humming at 100%. I can run it at 100% but feel there is no need for it. Sound is about like a fridge running sound at full power.
http://www.fish-street.com/jebao_dc_water_return_pump?category_id=126



Sent from pay phone in the airport.
 
@denierlexiese wrote:
I'm surprise the dc pump doesn't put off a lot of heat. Doesn't it run at 80 watts electricity? Also if you run a return manifold doesn't that mean one point of failure for the return? Isn't there a concern of the pump dying? said:
IIRC, when comparing a DC waveline to a Mag pump of equivalent performance, the power usage is about half. Add to that that a lot of the power that is used up as heat in the DC pump is outside of the water (controller and AC adapter)... The in water pump itself is incredibly efficient. For my closed loop, the pump is ran externally. When I ran the mag 9.5, it was hot to the touch. The Waveline that replaced it is room temperature.
Click to expand...
 
I'm loving mine in the link. But only had it running for about 2 weeks now. Hope it last as long as the wp-40s have so far even if they dont 2 of them was the same cost as one waveline.


Sent from pay phone in the airport.
 
To get the heat reduction does the dc pump need to be out of the water? Some review on youtube have the dc pumps in the refuge others have it outside the water.
 
Eckolancer, eseentially your saying that dc puts off so much less heat even though the device is in the water it puts off less heat? Is the ac to dc conversion done in the controller module outside the water?
 
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