Sump/Refugium Build Log.First,Questions about Design

Well now that I have acrylic in hand I am ready to design and build myself a sump/refugium. Due to the constraints of my stand I figured I can have a maximum of 39"L x 14"H X 17"D.

Here is the design I have come up with so far:
sump_refugium_design.jpg
alt="">

I can do everything with 4 of the 5 pieces I have but the question I have is:
Do I need a top with a lip if the acrylic is 1/4" thick and the present design to prevent bowout?

The reason I ask is that if I do need the top with lip then I will have to use the 5th piece that I would rather give to monisa so he can create some baffles for his sump project.

TIA,
Mike
 
Your design will leave a dead spot in the bottom of refugium area, the second baffle (fr right) should be shorten to half or less, if you want to keep it like that then no need for last 2 baffles.
 
I don't quite understand the dead spot issue or the baffle placement offset thingy, but at 14" tall with the baffles where you have them, I wouldn't worry about it bowing. Mine is 32x16x16 with only three baffles in the middle and I leak tested it before I put the top on. I didn't see any bowing at all.
 
Since the 1st and 2nd baffle have same height, water comes in and out right at the top (also bubbles from the skimmer will flow directly into the sump area), that leaves very little movement of water at the bottom, and with this setup the last 2 baffles will be useless but taking up space.
 
I've run a sump in this fashion for 9 months, and didn't like the results.

Anthony Calfo recommends a 2" shelf on the baffle 1" beneath its top edge. The water pours over the baffle, hits the shelf, and causes the water to tumble circularly through the refugium section.

Running your baffles that tall will cause the sump to be quite full. If/when your return pump is off, will you have enough empty space to hold the additional water volume that drains?

Can your skimmer stand in 11" of water?

You can glue strips of acrylic on the top edges to avoid it bowing out, instead of a solid piece. I prefer the look of a solid piece, which is why I make them the way I do.
 
@quangtam7 wrote:
Since the 1st and 2nd baffle have same height said:
Ahh, I see :lol: I didn't even read the descriptions of the chambers. I just assumed the drain would be in the far left with the skimmer in that section as well. Oops!
 
@Marc wrote:
Anthony Calfo recommends a 2" shelf on the baffle 1" beneath its top edge. The water pours over the baffle said:
Can you draw this or post a picture i am not really understanding what you are saying.
 
@quangtam7 wrote:
Your design will leave a dead spot in the bottom of refugium area said:
Ok, I realized that I place the baffles in the wrong place maybe?

Here is the modified design:
sump_refugium_design_2.jpg
alt="">

@Marc wrote:
I've run a sump in this fashion for 9 months said:
Marc, when you say, "in this fashion", do you mean Skimmer->Refugium->Return? If so should I do Skimmer->Return<-Refugium?

@Marc wrote:
Anthony Calfo recommends a 2" shelf on the baffle 1" beneath its top edge. The water pours over the baffle said:
Now included and should help with the circulation.

@Marc wrote:
Running your baffles that tall will cause the sump to be quite full. If/when your return pump is off said:
I lowered them by an inch and the baffle to the return by another for a capacity of 12.5 gallaons over normal operation. I haven't done the calculations yet but it should be enough.

@Marc wrote:
Can your skimmer stand in 11" of water? said:
Current one yes. The one I want to get AquaC EV-120 I will need to raise an inch to operate at 10".

@Marc wrote:
You can glue strips of acrylic on the top edges to avoid it bowing out said:
Thanks

Any comments about the design so far?

TIA
 
Yes, I really don't like the full amount of flow going through the refugium. Mine was like that for 9 months under the 280g, and it really didn't do too well.

My preference is Refugium --> Return <-- Skimmer.

Nice drawing. :)
 
If you had the refugium on one side and the skimmer on the other it allows you to control the flow through the refugium area easier. Though you will then have the skimmer compartment directly next to the return pump. You will have to work out out a way to eliminate the skimmer bubbles before they get to the return pump.
 
Here are 2 styles I would do:
First one is pretty standard, skimmer and refugium levels are not adjustable.
Second one, I would drill 2 holes (# of holes depends on the return pump, one in sample pic) on the last baffle and install a pipe/elbow on each side of each hole. Skimmer/refugium level depends on height of the pipe, thus adjustable, this will allow you to maximize the refugium area. With this one, if you have large tank, you can lower fuge level with shorter pipe. On the return area, it is best to have water flows in from the top, this will break any thin film on water surface.
 
Ken,
OK. Now I get it about having that baffle lower to help with better flow. I am going to try one more redesign. That's for the example pic.

Marc, Rick
I am still torn between Skimmer->Refugium->Return & Skimmer->Return<-Refugium. I was trying to keep the plumbing simple and the former would lend itself to it wiht the HOT Overflow box I have. The later configuration does have merit in controling the flow through the refugium though.

What would be the benifit for controlling the flow in the refugium area? More contact time between the water and sand/macro algea?

Thanks for all the information guys!
 
Slower flow through the refugium tends to get better macro growth in my tanks. You can use some of the water going back up to the tank as the feed to the refugium, like this:

http://www.melevsreef.com/return.jpg
 
I am going to finish this fuge, it has been in my garrage for too long, this will give you an idea how I build mine. I cut the first baffle into halves, eliminate the second one (in previous pic) and drill 3 holes on last one for 1"pipe. At this point I am out of elbows, so will stop here.
 
I add a pipe between two baffles and a gate valve to control the flow through the refugium. This valve will allow water bypass the fuge area, wider I open the valve, slower the water goes through the fuge. All fittings and pipes are not glued, leak is too small that will not be able to raise the return area or lower the fuge level.
Btw, sorry for hijacking your thread Mike, I should have started one my own, too late now :) .
 
Do what? Am I the only one confused?
Where in the water coming in and out of the sump? What is the top piece of glass(above the gate valve), how/when will that come into play? Maybe what lines will help me picture what is going on.
Sorry, not knocking your project at all, and I know you are Mr. Reef DIY. I am just not understanding the picture.
 
Everything works as expected, beautifully. Tested with Mag 12, first picture is max level. In second picture, I removed the top elbows and water dropped as you can see. Open the valve not only slow down water movement throught the refugium but also lower water level by 1/3".
 
Top