Slow Recovery of Frag Tank

debdp

Premium Member
In short, it's taken 7 to 8 months to get my frag tank almost up to useable condition after battling with flatworms, dinoflagellates and some brown mushy algae which may have been a form of dino or cyano, who knows. I only treated for the flatworms in the beginning, but the rest was just patience, water changes, constant cleaning, and reduced lighting from less hours daily, to 3 weeks of no light then adding LED spotlight lamps for about 3-4 weeks.

DETAILS

So back in July, 2010 I treated my frag tank with Algaefix and for whatever reason started losing corals. Not having much in the 15 gallon frag tank I just moved a few corals and let it go.

Then those orange flatworms started up and I eventually had to treat for that, but the treatment while it killed most of them, didn't get enough to keep them gone totally, so that was another 4 to 5 months of trying to deal with it. So of course the frag tank was useless. I had increased the dosage but eventually stopped the treatment as I wasn't seeing any significant drop in the critters.

Then as they finally started to dwindle on their own, the tank developed dinoflagellates. So I just kept wiping stuff down, vaccuming it out, running polyfilters and regular weekly water changes through the beginning of January this year. Feeding was minimal as I only have one Royal Gramma in that tank...but being territorial wasn't going to go well in either of my other tanks. After the dinoflagellates seemed to be disspiating I noticed this sort of slimey brown stuff on the back glass and rocks and sand. I noticed it was only where there was light on the left side of the tank and none on the right so out went the MH 150W for a few weeks, and then I put up two LED bulbs, one 65K and one Royal blue, which gave minimal light. I replaced the MH bulb yesterday and started it back up. Most all of the brown slime has disappeared from the glass and I can actually see a bit of purple coraline where previously it was all white and dead. The tiny frag of tubipora that had attached to one of the rocks is doing well, but the large porites I had no room for in any other tanks, not so well.

I had some red macroalgae attached to the rocks and they were a really good indicator of the tank conditions. They started paling in color and being covered with dinoflagellates and fronds were falling out during the worst times of the tank. Once I did total lights out and really couldn't tell if the algae issues were not doing well, I could see that after a couple weeks the macroalgae was improving and becoming darker even with no lighting.

Of course everything that did get moved in the beginning when there were a few flatworms had to be dipped and QT'd before going into my other tanks.

So at the 8 month mark and we're on our way to recovery.
 
Deb,

Glad to hear it's looking better, just curious if you were using salifert's flatworm exit or the blue line stuff, the salifert brand has never been known to fail and I even use it to kill nudi's if necessary.

Cheers,
 
I was using Salifert's. I followed instructions and increased the dose as needed. But always a few lingered and then started to remultiply. I have used it in my other tanks previously and it always worked extremely well after the first treatment. But for some reason this tank even with the increased dose they were more resistant. I even followed the recommended test to see how many drops it took to kill the more resistant ones and it took quite a few... if I remember correctly almost twice as many drops in the16 ounce test cup as a normal dose for a 15 gallon tank would be. The tank being so small I just decided to stop dosing, and for the ones that were left, wiped them off the glass, vaccumed what I saw and eventually they just all died off. Maybe the dinoflagellates killed them [smilie=smile.gif] because the transition from one to the other was overlapping. As the dino spread the flatworms dwindled.

@bimmerzs wrote:
 
It is good to hear that you are winning the great battle over algae. It becomes very frustrating at times and glad that you hung in there. Keep us up on your progress.
 
Deb,
Im really sorry to here about your frag tank problems. It's amazing how these things can spiral out of control in the blink of an eye when the littlest thing seems to go wrong.
 
So in hopes of things being better, 2 days ago I took a couple frags of a green/purple rim monti cap that I needed to frag and put 3 in my SPS tank and two smaller ones in the 15g. The frags RTN'd overnight, but the ones in the SPS tank are fine. While it might be the MH light was too much as they were under LEDs before, I'll test a couple more small frags from the SPS tank to see how they do. The water seemed to have turned slightly milky, but I thought it might be caused by the death of the frags, since this morning the water is clear again.
 
How does the water test in the frag tank compared to the main tank? That would be all parameters such as temp. pH, Alk, Ca, specific gravity etc? In other words does the water match. Also what filtration are you using on the frag tank?
 
Parameters are fine. Since there are only a couple corals in the frag nothing gets used as much, alk is 11, calcium 440; the tank the frags came from alk 10, calcium 400. pH for both 8.3. The SPS tank has lower parameters with a pH a 7.8, alk at 8 and calcium at 360 and the cap frags in there are fine. As far as filtration, there's a AquaFuge in the back but no macro; it holds a Tunze skimmer. I have a Whisper intank filter that I have a blue filter pad and small piece of polyfilter. I started running that when the dino's started. There's also a little minijet 404 with a hydor flo deflector. The heater's been unplugged due to Stealth heater possible issues. Lighting is an AquaMedic 150W with a brand new 14K Phoenix HexArc. Salinity: 60g where frags came from 1.025, 15 frag; 1.026, 40g SPS 1.026




@washingtond wrote:
 
Your parameters that are measured are close so that does not seem to be the problem. The other thing that I can think of are the nitrates and phosphates and if you have test kits you should test them. You did not mention that you had a fuge with macro algae on any of your tanks.

One other radical thing I would try is the next time that you do a water change on the main tank, place the old water into the frag tank. This would be closer to simulating them being on the same system (same water).

Suggestion:

I am running my frag tank on the sump connected to the main system so the water is the same. This means that I never have any problems moving frags back and forth.
 
I hadn't tested for phosphates or nitrates, but only because I only feed that one fish in the morning minimal food. I do add 4 drops of phosphate remover, even though when I measure for phosphates it always shows 0, but I feel that the red macro algae growing in the tank may be absorbing it. I feed by 6g azoo tank several times daily and it never reads phosphates but the red macro grows like mad so I know it has phosphates, so I still dose phosphate remover in that tank as well. I've only tested nitrates on ocassion, again when I do test it shows negative. I mostly use API but if in doubt I have Salifert test kits as a double check. I'll be doing testing on the tanks I haven't tested so I'll do phosphate and nitrate tests as well. I normally test alk and calcium bi weekly, magnesium monthly and pH on the two tanks without pH monitors.

The frag tank is in the back of the house, the Azoo tank, 40 & 60 in my office near the front of the house and the ones in the same room because of doors none of the tanks can be joined.



@washingtond wrote:
 
You can still use the water from one of your water changes in the frag tank just to see if it makes a difference the next time you move corals over.
 
So while I had high hopes this past week for this tank they hit rock bottom this morning. I had moved a frag of blue monti cap in there and did well for over a week. Last night I did water testing on all the tanks and the frag had an alk of 9, cal 460 zero phosphates. But this morning the coral had lost all of its color except for one tiny corner which was bluer than the frag had ever been :( but the rest was a dirty gray color and slime on parts of the frag. This picture really isn't showing much except the darkness of the frag to the lightness of it overnight.

[attachment=0]bluecap2.jpg[/attachment]


Not sure what I'll do now.
 
Yay, it's back up and running!!!

About 3 weeks or so +/- I put in a green birdsnest frag and a zoa frag and both are still doing great.

While there's no way to know if any one thing had a direct effect on the tank finally doing better my opinion is that the use of BRS's GFO & ROX carbon kicked it off in the right direction. In order here's what's changed:

Replaced 150W HQI with 3 x PAR 30 LED bulbs from BoostLED
As noted: HC GFO, ROX Carbon in AquaFuge outflow in filterbags(well L'eggs knee highs)
Added rock
Started using chaeto in AquaFuge/added 2x9W Corallife light to fuge
Started adding 1.5 tsp Kalk mixed into the 2.5 gallon top off container...is used up in 7 days
Started dosing BioDigest/Bioptim two weeks ago... plan to dose monthly using .3 ml (1 vial is split with 3 nano tanks)

While the hair algae is still an issue, wipe it off and back the next day, the dark brown algae is almost non-existent, and the hair algae is not in as many places.

Changes in params over one month:

pH: 4/23=7.8 5/22=8.3
Alk: 4/23=8 5/22=9
Cal: 4/23=440 5/22=420
Phos: 4/23=.2 5/22=.01
Mg: 4/23=1500 5/22=1500

The Mg had dropped off to 1250 when tested (Salifert) on 5/10 but was brought back up with BRS Mg.

While there isn't a huge change in the parameters except for phosphates, the tank just <u>looks </u>way, way better.

The only issue I've run into with the kalk is that the container I used (Walmart 2.5 gal water jug) developed a crack and leaked. An identical replacement container developed a crack in the same exact spot and leaked. So I poured the mix into a 2.5 gallon bucket and ordered a 2.5 gal container from U.S. Plastics which is chemical resitant.

I have 3 duncan frags of which I'll be moving the smallest one in this week to see how it does, and then some other SPS frags a little at a time.
 
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