Sam's 105 build

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dfwpot

Premium Member
I am a noob when it comes to starting a thread and discussing technical stuff. I recently visited Washingtond to learn from his set up and he encouraged me to start this thread. I learned a lot from the build threads of several members. Everytime I visit someone to buy corals or fish, I get to see their set up and learn new things.
 
hint...take some pictures and post away, then take some more! lots and lots of pics, good or bad, we love em!

[(hush anton!)]
 
Thanks Wes for your encouraging words. I will get photos of my system very soon.

MY EXPERIENCE
I have been in the saltwater aquarium hobby for 5 years. Started with a 47 gal FOWLR bowfront and had it for 6 months. Then I moved to Texas and started a new 90 gal oceanic bowfront, mixed reef tank. Did great for 2-3 years and interested a couple of friends into the hobby. Then something happened to my tank and I lost my corals with GHA growing all over the tank. Since I lost most corals, I turned my lights off for a month and after that had short light period and over a year my tank started showing new spontaneous growth. My interest rekindled and I started stocking with corals again.

I just bought a used Oceanic starphire 105 gal tank: 48"x18"x29" with stand and canopy at the LFS. I want to try setup a "bulletproof reef system".
MY QUEST BEGINS:

Sam
 
very nice! looking forward to seeing it all come together. i know u have been in it a while but dont be afraid to ask questions if you are worried, ya dont want a repeat as i know issues can be very frustrating. good luck!
 
Thanks Wes. [smilie=smile.gif]

Equipment list (please advise and comment)

Current equipment that I would reuse from my 90Gal bowfront
35 gal sump
phosban reactor
Coralife 2x150hqi lights
Moon lights
Tunze turbella 6101, maxijet, tunze nano 6045 x 1 for water movement in the tank
Euro reef RS 135 skimmer

Will get this equipment to start my new tank
Reeflo snapper hybrid external pump 2400gal/hr, will drill the return area of my sump. Please advise on ideas.
Return manifold (diagram coming)
water station (diagram coming)
Arag-alive special grade sand (little course but OK for the sand swifters), will add new sand with some old sand to the new tank.
Miracle mud
Lots of plumbing parts (diagram soon)
Shower liner for sump and water station area. (Idea from Pete's build)
Drill canopy for fans and ventilation
Foam under tank

My wishlist (hopefully fullfilled very soon)
Vortech 40s
LED lighting system. Evolution LED at Reefkoi.com(I saw David's they look good), Maxspect G2, AI or vertex LED
algae scrubber page 10 of Washigtond's 200/75 dfwmas tank build
ATO/kalkreactor
vodka/carbon dosing (advise please)
2 part dosing with dosing pumps
2 islands of the rock?
Controller ?apex
Led for refugium?
Calcium reactor


Please advise if I am forgetting something, other than fish and corals.
Thank you,
Sam
 
Thank you Kuyatwo for the comments. I will start with two part only and if I needed I will then establish a calcium reactor. I plan on doing a SPS dominated reef tank.

Thank you
Sam
 
looks like your off to a good start Sam

I agree with kuyatwo, you wont need a Ca reactor for a while

I ran my 300g with only 2 part for about 2 years and had great results
 
Sam I am glad to see that you have started this thread. I think that you will find that this is one of the best things that you have done other than joining DFWMAS. You will find all the help, suggestions, ideas, and advise you need here. Like Wes said be sure to post lots of pictures.
 
Since you have a 6101 already in my opinion just add another one or some 6055 since you can control the flow with the apex from the get go. You can control mp40s with apex but you will need to buy extra modules
 
Thank you Kuyatwo. Great advise on another 6101 and apex controller. That would save a lot of money.

This is the diagram of my retun manifold. I copied this idea from several threads here and reef central. Please advise.
 
looks good - consider not adding a valve upstream of the pump and use a threaded bulkead at the the sump that can be plugged. If you need to remove the pump it will save a few dollars on a valve that may never have to be used and if so a plug works just as well
 
Pete,
Thank you for the comments. Sorry for my ignorance. What would be the problem with true union ball valve at the sump. My thinking was I was going to use that for on and off only. SInce I may have to adjust for the flow at the other places I was going to use the gate valves.

Another noob question. My current set up doesn't use valves. If the use the valves with the external pump, during the time I want to stop the flow through the tank to sump (during feeding), do I turn my return pump off or I just shut off the valve going to the DT.

Please advise.

Thank you
 
Thanks David.

Attached is the picture of my water changing station set up. Please advise or comment

[attachment=0]Water station.jpg[/attachment]

For water changes once in 2-4 weeks I will close the valve to the return area of the sump. Drain the saltwater and then pump the RO/DI water into the saltwater container, add salt and mix for 24 hours and when parameters are perfect, turn on the valve to return area of the sump and this should finish my waterchange. Parts of this idea came from shookbrad's thread.
 
Some of my current 90 gal tank inhabitants

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Gorgonian
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Hope they all do fine when I transfer them
 
Looks good Sam. I like your pictures. The LED system looks really nice. I guesse you could probably scratch the chiller and keep some RODI ice blocks in the freezer in case of emergency.
 
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