RO/DI Setup

H

Hookem2006

Premium Member
So I am lookin to install a filtration unit in the house. I was looking at BRS's products and there is so many different options. How do I know if I want a 4, or 5 or even 6 stage? And then what options do I want to come with it?

ANy advice is appreciated...
 
More stages the more protection you give your RO membrane. That part costs the most and last the longest. If you have chloramines in your water as well as chlorine you need a smaller micron carbon stage.

I have always run
5 micron sediment
5 micron carbon
2 micron carbon
RO
Then DI


Some people like to add a extra sediment filter to prolong the life of a single carbon block. There is only like a 3$ difference is the replacement cost. I prefer the extra carbon block. You could even do both.
 
I'd just go with a 5 stage. That's what I've been using for a year and it has worked well. Even with the drought last year our chloramine levels didn't get nearly as high as other areas IIRC.
 
Let's back up a little bit...

First, I'm assuming from your post that you are looking for a system to produce drinking water (only), correct?

If so, then what you need is a 3 stage system. Sediment filter->Carbon block (not gac)->RO membrane. The system will also have a pressurized storage tank and a faucet. For this purpose, a 5 micron sediment filter, and a 5 micron carbon is fine. You'll want a slow RO membrane - something around 24 gpd.

If you also want the system to produce DI water for your aquarium, then there's more to talk about.

If you have any questions about other options, set up, operation, or maintenance, feel free to give us a call. We can walk you through any/all of it.

Russ
513-312-2343
 
@mmiller40 wrote:
More stages the more protection you give your RO membrane. said:
This is a common misunderstanding. In nearly all situations a single sediment filter and a single carbon block will result in a life span on your RO membrane exceeding several years.

If you have chloramines in your water as well as chlorine you need a smaller micron carbon stage. said:
The presence of chloramine in your tap water is really a separate issue than the pore size on your filters.

I have always run 5 micron sediment 5 micron carbon 2 micron carbon RO Then DI said:
Unless you have chloramines in your water, or use very low end carbon blocks, there is really no need for two carbon blocks. The smallest pore size on any of your carbon blocks should be about the same as, or larger than, the smallest pore size on your sediment filter.

Some people like to add a extra sediment filter to prolong the life of a single carbon block. There is only like a 3$ difference is the replacement cost. I prefer the extra carbon block. You could even do both. said:
The idea on these systems is to efficiently provide good filtreations. So although you could use multiple sediment filters for instance, if one sediment filter with the correct spec's does the job, multiple sediment filters would just be adding to the cost of ownership w/o yielding better water. Same thing with multiple carbon blocks. The other issue is that each prefilters reducing the pressure reaching the membrane bit a bit. This is an issue for people with low feedwater pressure to begin with.

Russ
Click to expand...
Click to expand...
Click to expand...
Click to expand...
 
@MBSL55 wrote:
I'd just go with a 5 stage. That's what I've been using for a year and it has worked well. Even with the drought last year our chloramine levels didn't get nearly as high as other areas IIRC. said:
I think you're talking about a 5 stage RODI system, rather than the RO system referenced by the OP, no?

Two carbon blocks is a good idea on systems treating water containing chloramines.
Click to expand...
 
I am waiting this for my aquarium not for drinking. Sorry for any concussion. Thanks for all the help. Still way confused but I get it a little more now.
 
You're welcome to see how I've got mine setup and I can walk you through it next time you are over. I've got an output after the RO stages and then a separate output after the DI stage with a dual in-line TDS meter to monitor after the RO stages and after the DI stages. I was pretty confused by the stuff at first until I saw a presentation on it and got mine up and running.
 
Here is the write up I found on BRS when I was building mine. Pretty much in line with what I was doing already, except it says you need something different for chloramines. I guess I should call my city and see if what they use.


Stage 1) Choose a sediment filter: These reduce sediment, rust and larger particulate mater. 5 micron is the most common choice. Only choose the 1 micron if you know you water supply has lots of extremely small sediment in it. Be aware that the 1 micron will get clogged faster and require more frequent replacement or the pressure will drop and hurt the performance of your system.

Stage 2) Choose a sediment filter or carbon block: Choose another sediment filer if you have extremely bad sediment problems (rare). The most common choice for this is the 5 micron CTO/2 carbon block. The carbon block will remove chlorine and other VOC’s (volatile organic compounds) from your water supply. The 1 micron +1 carbon block can also be used here but it may get clogged quickly and cause a drop pressure. If you have chloramines in your water supply (not the same as chlorine) you can use the granulated catalytic carbon or the ChlorPlus cartridge. The catalytic carbon is dusty and must be flushed before use. The ChlorPlus is a carbon block and much easier to use. Around 10% of the nations water supply uses chloramines, you can call your city hall and ask if you would like to find out. If you are building a three stage system skip stage three and choose a membrane.

Stage 3) Choose an additional carbon stage or add a DI resin canister . The most common choice here is the 1 micron +1 carbon block. Now that the water is already adequately cleaned you can use a 1 micron carbon block without risk of it clogging quickly. Another common arrangement is to use an additional 5 micron (CTO/2) carbon block. If you have chloramines you will want to use the chlorplus on this stage. If you are building a 4 stage RO/DI choose Deionization resin for this stage. DI resin will remove everything that the membrane misses and produce absolutely pure water.

Stage 4) Choose a membrane. By far the most common choice is the Dow 75GPD because it offers the best performance and flow rate combination available at common water pressures. The Dow will produce 75 gallons per day at 50 PSI and maintains 98% rejection. The 100 GPD GE membrane will produce water faster but requires 60PSI and has only a 96% rejection rate. The lower rejection rate will produce lower quality water and consume your DI resin faster. The 150 GPD membrane operates at 98% rejection at 65 PSI and is a great option if you have higher than average water pressure or use a booster pump. The last option is the water saver option which utilizes two 75 GPD membranes and cuts the waste water in half by feeding the second membrane with the waste water of the first. This option also requires 65 PSI to operate and performs best when your homes water supply has below 300 TDS (total dissolved solids)

Stage 5) Add a stand alone deionization canister. A single canister is the most common choice and typically enough to produce absolutely pure water. Customers who choose the dual stage do it because they have a dirty water supply and consume resin quickly or because they are on well water and live next to a known source of pollution like factories or farm
 
One other quick question as I am about to get this thing setup, do y'all mix any buffer's or anything in your top off water?
 
@Hook'em2006 wrote:
One other quick question as I am about to get this thing setup said:
It depends on how you supplement. I used to mix buffer in it and dose calcium separately. Now I am just topping off with kalk. If you have a doser then I would not mix in anything
Click to expand...
 
I do separate alk and ca dosing. The top off amount varies in my tank based on house temp and such so I don't tie any dosing to my top off water

Sent from my SGH-T959 using Tapatalk 2
 
@mmiller40 wrote:
[I]@Hook'em2006 wrote:[/I][quote="One other quick question as I am about to get this thing setup said:
It depends on how you supplement. I used to mix buffer in it and dose calcium separately. Now I am just topping off with kalk. If you have a doser then I would not mix in anything"]


I don't dose anything as of yet. I use weekly water changes to keep up with my ca/mg levels.

I was wondering if I should add a ph buffer to it. I am not sure if the water I buy has a buffer in it right now.
Click to expand...
 
For a while we had to add Prime to our water to lock up the chloramines in the source water, due to the drought conditions last summer/fall.
 
From Randy Holmes-Farley: "Chloramine is broken down by a good carbon block to ammonia and chloride. The DI then removes those."

So, I gather you can test for ammonia and see if anything is getting through. We were good in our area even during the drought last year.

I think chloramine is the difference between what you get on a chlorine test and a free chlorine test (chloramine being the bound chlorine). Pool test strips should work for that. Hopefully someone who knows more about chemistry can confirm what I've said or state it correctly.
 
To break down Chloramine, you need 20" of carbon and 20 minutes of contact time per gallon. That is why a 75gpd membrane would be well-suited for people that have chloramine issues. 75gpd is 3g per hour, or one gallon every 20 minutes. Running a GAC filter will help.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top