RO/DI opinions wanted

G

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I am about to purchase and install a RO/DI unit for my tank. I have a 215 Gallon reef with 14k MH and HO T5, with an open top. My questions are what is a unit that you would use and what GPD does the other members have?

I am estimating no more that a 40 or 60 gpd unit is needed but I am not sure.

Thanks
 
The benefit of a faster (more GPD) unit is that you don't have to wait as long to produce water. 60 GPD means it will take one hour to make 2.5 gallons of water. If you have time on your hands, it doesn't matter but when things are going crazy and you need it now, that may feel like an eternity.

I've been using a 100gpd unit for almost 6 years. I bought it when I only had a 29g to care for, and it has done well for my 29g, my 55g, and now my 280g, the 20g angled tank, the 3g pico, and water changes. I tend to make about 240g of water per month.
 
Thanks, so the bigger the better as in gpd. You made a very good point. I will aim for no less than a 100 gpd unit.

Now in regards to the stages of the units, I have seen 2 to 5 stages with each removing a little more than another. Is a 3 0r 4 stage good enough for a reef tank?

Also what microns should I be looking for with the units filters?

Okay last question I promise.
Even with a unit do you hold a few jugs of water on hand for emergencies or relay completely on the unit?

I am asking so many questions because if I drill a couple of holes through my house (inside to outside) and they are wrong, I am sure you will know how the wife will get. :D
 
100 GPD is probably a good unit. If you get more then that then your rejection rate is not as high and the water is not as clean.

I use a 75gpd dual membrane unit and i have a booster pump too. So I can make 5 gallons of water in about 30 minutes with this unit.

If you just get a 100gpd unit that is RO/DI then you should be good. Get a unit that has the DI unit that is vertical (size of a normal chamber) not he horizontal units. The vertical DI chambers work much better.

Another good tool is a dual TDS meter. I put one meter that tells me the TDS prior to DI and one after the DI unit. The one prior will let me know when it's time to change filters on the unit and the one after the DI will let me know when my DI is exhausted.
 
I have absorbed the information and have begun looking for a unit. I have found one that to me seems to be a "deal". I am linking the sight so if anyone would please give me a thumbs up or down on this one or recommend a better one.

http://www.purelyh2o.com/product.php?productid=16237&cat=249&page=1

I will add an additional meter and flush too.
 
I am going to say thumbs down...2 DI chambers makes no sense, and the second one appears to be horizontal. You want one with 3 prefilteres then the membrane and then the DI chamber. There are 2 sponsors that sell RO/DI units. One is Melev and the other is Air Water & Ice...check the sponsor section for there links.
 
@ss95003 wrote:
100 GPD is probably a good unit. If you get more then that then your rejection rate is not as high and the water is not as clean. I use a 75gpd dual membrane unit and i have a booster pump too. So I can make 5 gallons of water in about 30 minutes with this unit. If you just get a 100gpd unit that is RO/DI then you should be good. Get a unit that has the DI unit that is vertical (size of a normal chamber) not he horizontal units. The vertical DI chambers work much better. said:
This statement interested me. What is a good rejection rate?

BFS has a 150gpd for only $10 more which offers a 98% rejection rate. Seems for $10 more I would get the 150gpd.
Click to expand...
 
@Church wrote:
Thanks said:
I have an article on my site that answers all of these questions, but it would be blatant advertising for me to link you to it now. :lol:

A 5 stage unit is pretty common. 1 sediment, dual carbons - these trap the big stuff and protect the membrane from chlorine damage. The membrane is next, and then it passes through a final DI to polish out the last of the total dissolved solids.

Some people like to have tiny micron filters, but I don't agree. If it is super fine (1 micron or less) it is more likely to clog up sooner and require more frequent filter changes. If you don't care nor mind that, then go for it. I've been using 5 micron sediment filters, so anything under 5 micron gets through. I've been doing that for nearly 6 years without issue. I make a lot of water every month, and my filters last me about 5 months.

I always have 15g of RO/DI water stored, which is used every three days to replenish my top off reservoir.
Click to expand...
 
I saw that too Frank. I dont remember 150 GPD membranes before having the higher rejection rate but since you dont want to be monitoring your unit for hours to make enough water, I tend to agree for $10 get the bigger unit and knock maybe 1/3 of the time off the process. If you ever have an emergency, you will appreciate the ability to make a lot of water in a hurry.
 
Oh BFS = Buckeye Field Supply a sponsor on RC. I have gotten filters from these guys, they seem to be good.

Gary
 
I picked a different unit style... because I wanted non DI water for the kitchen as well as DI water for the tank.

Here is my DIY thread that has a link to the brand I settled on... http://www.dfwmas.org/Forums/viewtopic.php?t=41617

I have one of the 65G storage mixing tanks in the garage, but haven't taken pics of it yet. I'll try to get a couple of those up tonight.
 
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