please help (cloudy Eye)

being new to the Hobie I think I am starting to see some of the inevitable problems one sees when starting out . 1st my regal tang has white spots and from what I heard at the last meeting I would say I have ich 2nd 2 of my fish have 1 cloudy eye each ......................HELP!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 
Matt forgive my ignorance but what do you mean by Hypo ? and I went to seachems web sight what should I be looking for note I don't have a 2nd tank is this something I can achieve in the main tank
 
The best way to fight ick, is to raise the temperature to 83 degrees, slowly (1 degree per day) and keep it there for at least 30 days.
The ick will drop off the tang as the tang gets less stressed. The ick cycle should stop after 30 days. the sooner you start the better chance the tang has to survive. IMO hypo treatement stesses the fish too much and without raising the temperature you do nothing to disrupt the cycle.

The cloudy should go away on its own once the fish is no longer stressed.

I have personal experience on both subjecs.
 
@Matt wrote:
[I]@Alex wrote:[/I][quote="The best way to fight ick said:
How will raising the temperature stop the parasites life cycle after 30 days? That would be true IF it not a single parasite managed to find a host during that period of time. That is incredibly unlikely. These animals at best may develop an acquired immunity to the parasite giving the impression that the parasite is no longer present.

I found this in an article by Terry B:
Temperature manipulation or raising the temperature to 86F is a treatment that has been used with some success against freshwater ick Ichthyophthirius multifiliis. However said:
http://www.advancedaquarist.com/issues/feb2004/mini4.htm

With regard to the cloudy eye issue, it is likely a secondary infection (bacterial) that is a result of the Marine Ich."]

I second what Matt said. Hypo is the ONLY thing that ever worked for me.
 
The raised temp over a 30 day period disrupts the outbreak. Ick is always present in everyone's system. Ick gets on tangs when they get stressed. The fish's imune system fights it off when it is strong.
 
@robert a wrote:
being new to the Hobie I think I am starting to see some of the inevitable problems one sees when starting out . 1st my regal tang has white spots and from what I heard at the last meeting I would say I have ich 2nd 2 of my fish have 1 cloudy eye each ......................HELP!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! said:
Robert, for every expert in the marine hobby, there is another one to present another opinion. There is so much we don't know about marine life. The method I recommended to you is very inexpensive and has worked for me over the years. Many experts recommend expensive treatments etc... to sell a lot of different products... including kick ick, copper tanks, etc...

Below is a portion of an article on ick from DFS on the life cycle of ick.

Read at your own risk as there are 100 more that say a different story [smilie=rofl.gif] .

"The life cycle of Cryptocaryon

Understanding the life cycle of Cryptocaryon is very important in effectively treating or preventing the infection. Cryptocaryon is an obligate parasite, which means that it cannot survive without a period of growth on a fish. Once the original parasite attaches to a fish, it burrows into the skin where it feeds and grows for 5 to 7 days. During this time, it is very irritating to the fish and the characteristic white spot develops. The protozoan then breaks out of the cyst and is called a tomont. The tomont swims freely for 12 to 18 hours until it produces sticky opaque material and creates a cyst, which then attaches to a rock, coral, glass, etc. A tomont then starts dividing until it produces up to 200 daughter cells called tomites. This process is temperature dependent and can take from 3 to 28 days. When the tomites have finished dividing and are mature, they are then released into the water. They then develop cilia and begin to swim through the water looking for a host. These free-swimming organisms are called theronts. They will only live 12 to 18 hours if they do not find a new host fish to attach to and start the cycle over again. The completion of the entire life cycle can be between 9 and 40 days and is temperature dependent. The warmer the water the faster the cycle occurs, and most likely is complete in a couple of weeks in most home aquariums. However, there are some reports that indicate that despite being at a warmer temperature, there may be other variables that make the multiplication process take longer than two weeks, which is why some experts recommend a slightly longer treatment period."

http://www.peteducation.com/article.cfm?c=16+2160&aid=2420
 
Thanks for all the input .That being said I'm going to take all my fish out of the main tank and set up a hospital tank for a min of 6-8 weeks then I'll put them back in and hopefully I won't have this issue any more also I will quarantine all future fish just to make sure [smilie=itwasntme.gif]
 
Top