Need Help with Lighting For 36 Gal Corner Tank

B

bmd85

When I bought this tank I built an enclosing hood for it and installed the lighting that I already had from my previous aquarium (Coralife Aqualight Quad Tube Compact Fluorescent Strip Lights 96 watts) Also the tank is mostly less than 18", about 15" average (sand bed)
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Each side is 24" long with a door that is 19" X 9" giving the maximum area most 24" lights to be 24" X 9.5" (I measured everything, no calculation) I installed a large fan to keep the aquarium cool. The hood s about 6.5 " thick from ceiling to water surface.


There are 2 problems, this doesn't seem to be enough light and the light itself blocks the door. I want to be able to keep some anemones and some coral. in the past coral did not respond well to the tank and no macro algae will grow

I want to install some lighting around 5 watts per gallon (150-180 watts)
The largest T5HO that would fit would be a 96 watt Current USA Nova Extreme Fixture

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This would also block the door but I would be ok with this if this would be sufficient wattage

So I think that either a single MH and maybe a small compact fluorescent will do the trick. The lights that match the size and watt applications are the JBJ K-2 Viper 150W HQI Clamp on (remove clamp) and the Coralife 12 Inch Aqualight With 2-18W 50/50 Lamps Straight Pin Base (186 Watt total)

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Well this do the trick, and does anyone have any advise about these brands?

Will this be too hot even with the fan and will the small reflector for the Viper spread light over the tank well enough?
 
Why not go with a single Lumenbright mini reflector with a 250W MH setup, this way you could possibly go with a 14K or 15K bulb and still grow whatever you want and get the look you want w/o actinic's.

Cheers,
 
This may work... with a little overhang in the back end...

http://www.marinedepot.com/ps_ViewItem~idProduct~AQ1811.html

I have one for sale in the For Sale Forums. Other than a pendent, or the 24" ATI fixtures, these are probably the best alternatives, unless you do a DYI and go retro kits or DYI MH. If you go that route, you can do do 3 24" T-5 one down each side and one across the front and then a MH (DE) in the center.
 
I purchased the exact same tank. I'm planning to purchase a 250w SLS Reef Optix HQI w/ Ice Cap Electronic Ballast & Phoenix 14k bulb.
The Phoenix 14k does not need actinic supplement. And you will get great coverage with this reflector. I even contacted SLS and asked them what pendant they recommended for the 36g corner. This was their recommendation.

You can purchase this exact set up from www.reefgeek.com
 
Ok, Sorry I have been away for a while, I am a med student and I had a test today.

Thanks so much for all of the suggestions

I would like something that could stay mostly enclosed, I know that you don't have the aquarium in front of you to compare measurements to.

http://www.reefgeek.com/product/Reef_Optix_3_Plus_HQI_Reflector_(250W)_by_Sunlight_Supply
- $130 (11X9 is pushing it but not too far)
http://www.reefgeek.com/lighting/Metal_Halide/IceCap/Ballasts/Metal_Halide_Ballast:_1-250W_Universal_by_IceCap
- $130
http://www.reefgeek.com/lighting/Replacement_Bulbs/Metal_Halide/250W_14000K+_Metal_Halide_Bulb_(Double-ended)_by_Phoenix
- $65

250 watts = $$322.85 (free shipping)

Sounds like a plan THANK YOU FRankthetank

I was thinking about this more between my studies
with some work on the hood I could fit my 20" coralife compact onto the door and add a coralife HQi to the back giving me 250 watts but it is still kinda "rigged" for $300 plus equipment needed for "rigging"

I have heard allot of talking about mixing halides and fluorescent but I still feel a little confused with the issue?


would this have any advantage over the setup frank the tank suggests?
 
A picture to clarify

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notice the completely enclosed hood, I have dilled 1" holes in the back and added a 4" fan to the back for circulation of hot air
 
@bmd85 wrote:
Ok said:
First.. If you end up going with Reef Geek products, do so through the group buy, see the Group Buy Forum. You'll save some $$$.

As far as advantages go.. Once you have PAR out of the way (amount/intensity of light) it all comes down to just a couple of ares color, heat output and how the thing looks over your tank.

Color - Using a variety of bulb combinations allows you better control and fine-tuning of light color. This is important to most of us because corals look better to the eye under different lighting and its very individualized. If you have a single bulb, you have less flexibility.

Heat Output - MH vs T5 or VHO is quite a bit different. The lights will be much hotter, especially a Double-Ended bulb. If you do a canopy, youll want and need fans for either of these.

Looks - If you go with a fixture of any type, single bulb MH, or a combo fixture it should look clean. If you go with a pendent or reflector and vho's or T-5 combo/retros it can look a bit 'ghetto' unless you get creative or are handy with hand tools that you can build something. In a canopy, this is less of a problem though.

Mixing MH with T-5 of VHO... basically the way this works is you drive the majority of your light from the MH at a kelvin rating you like, then you use T-5 or VHO to add actinics to the mix to give you a color pop. The difference between VHO and T-5 Actinics is the VHO tend to use more power, are not as bright and are more purple/blue in color. T-5's use less power, offer multiple actinic options (purple/blue/pink etc). T-5's are also more compact (skinnier) than VHO's.

Looking at your tank and its location, I take back my 24" fixture recommedations. I don't think you could squeeze them in that corner without any clearance behind the tank like that.
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Just thought I would throw this in. i made this top for my 92 corner and put a luminarc l3 with a icecap 250 and reflux 12k. I am going to paint it black to match.
 
@yuki wrote:
Just thought I would throw this in. i made this top for my 92 corner and put a luminarc l3 with a icecap 250 and reflux 12k. I am going to paint it black to match. said:
have you given heat any thought? any fans or chiller? and how do you feed
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I haven't had any problems with heat yet but I got a 1/4hp chiller waiting to go on it.

I feed by lifting it up and sliding it back. it just sits on top. Its not a hassle but I have wanted to design a way to hinge the whole front to come up and lock.

I will be doing a build log for this tank soon because I made a bad action sump to fit under. These tanks have interesting challenges.
 
@yuki wrote:
I haven't had any problems with heat yet but I got a 1/4hp chiller waiting to go on it. I feed by lifting it up and sliding it back. it just sits on top. Its not a hassle but I have wanted to design a way to hinge the whole front to come up and lock. I will be doing a build log for this tank soon because I made a bad action sump to fit under. These tanks have interesting challenges. said:
yes and i got to see that sump. after much tought i gave up and went with the fish room behind . in mine it was custom sump or out of stand . just not room to get the gal. of sump with out biulding one in a tryange shape
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