My Test Readings

G

guitareefs

Premium Member
Here are my first tests that I've done myself. I just bought an API test kit.

Nitrate: 40
Phosphate: 0
Calcium: 520 (weird cause my LFS told me it was around 360 yesterday...except they didn't go by what the directions said. I followed directions and got 520
KH: 125.3

Haven't tested pH or Magnesium cause I don't have those tests.

What do yall think of my readings?
 
I added 7 drops for KH. So that'd make it 7dkh?

And if you read the part of being my first time :D ...I was new to this. The calcium was the only thing that gave me trouble. It turned blue at around mid 400s but thought it had to be EXACT as the end point. I don't know what's ok and what's not ok...cause the instructions said once it turned blue, which it did at mid 400s but had a end point color and had to add a couple more drops.

Nitrates...should be fixed with a water change. I've been trying to get my params in check before getting coral. I guess it's best if I wait to see how I do with the tests and once I get my params on good terms. I bought some Tech M to dose magnesium once I get my mg test in and see if I need to add any. I will buy 2 part as well when I get my testing down.
 
Yes, your KH is 7. A little low but not bad. I would try and get it to 8 or 9.

For the calcium kit, it is when it turns blue. Usually for me it takes one more drop once it starts looking purple.

I'm not sure how good the API kits are for nitrates and phosphates. If you are going to keep SPS then you may want to invest in a low reading kit such as the Elos kit for phospate.

You do need to get your nitrates down with zero being your goal but having nitrates isn't a horrible thing. I've seen some nice SPS tanks that had nitrates.
 
Ok, then I got my calcium down at 450, cause that's when it turned blue.

I'll do a water change and check my nitrates again.
 
The thing I don't like about my API kits is that when you put the stopper in a vial and shake it, it still leaks a bit or solution/water stays on the cap and adding additional drops can be misleading because you've lost some of the test water I believe. It's ok on the tests where you add the drops once and shake then read but for the ones that use multiple steps/reagents/shaking between drops - I find it a bit difficult.

On the calcium color change, one drop will start the color change and then I stop at the first drop that allows the entire vial of solution to keep the darker blue after shaking. It usually takes one or two more drops after the first indication of color shift.
 
The other kits don't require you to do that? Shake a test tube and add drop after drop?

Man, I thought getting the API was good...I definately don't like the dripping of the solution/water as well, it runs down the sides of the tube and I just hate it.
 
@DheereCrossing wrote:
The thing I don't like about my API kits is that when you put the stopper in a vial and shake it said:
That is why a lot of times I just use my finger to cover the tube. Plus I've lost most of my stoppers.
Click to expand...
 
@guitareefs wrote:
The other kits don't require you to do that? Shake a test tube and add drop after drop? Man said:
The API kits are good for the money though they are not the "best". Some of the other kits have you swirl the contents instead of shake them. I personally like Elos kits but I mainly use them as a backup. I use the API kits for my daily/weekly tests and then use the Elos every month or 2 just to confirm what I'm seeing with the API kits. All the kits seem to have something I don't like about them. The Elos phosphate kit is a pain because you have to shake the tube for 2 minutes. I never have a clock around when I do it so I have to count it out in my head which is not a good thing since I count faster the further into the count I get.
Click to expand...
 
@guitareefs wrote:
The other kits don't require you to do that? Shake a test tube and add drop after drop? Man said:
Yea, you still need to 'agate/swirl/shake' the vial but some of the caps fit differently, vials are larger, etc.

I don't like using my finger over the top because skin oils/etc. will affect the test results - my pH is low enough already, I don't need something on my finger to lower it more. :oops: :roll:
Click to expand...
 
I hate to admit it but I've only tested PH once or twice in the last 8 years. I figure if cal, kh and mag are ok then PH should be ok.
 
I think I figured out my nitrate problem. I got two bags of chaeto from a couple members and saw life in the chaeto on the ride home. I just looked in the sump and saw a few pods floating on the surface. Could the die off from the chaeto be the reason?
 
I use the API kits, but with long test tubes that I picked up from hobby lobby. They let you shake them well without having to cap them.
 
That's a great idea Scott. but is the diameter the same? If the diameter changes wouldn't the color change?
 
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