MH for $100 question

S

Shane_pcs

I am thinking of adding some MH light to my tank using the following link as a guide

http://aquarium.union.rpi.edu/articles/DIY_MH.html

My question, is the following. How far up from the top of my water level should this bulb be? I have an existing wood canopy, and I want to make sure that I can add the MH light without causing a disaster (by splash or something)

My existing canopy is 7" tall of which only 6" are above the top of the tank. (ie. 6.25" off the top of the water line)
 
I was going to use that exact same way to add MH to my system. I actually ended up with a much better system. One from a member here a complete set up for that price and another I bought just a ballast from ebay. My two are both icecap ballasts with hellolights.com reflectors ($30)

My canopy is 12" tall on the outside with 10" of space on the inside. If you look around and shop you can find great deals. I would probably go with a different kelvin of light though, 6500k is really yellow.
 
That DIY article I linked, said the type of ballast they used actually made the 6500K look bluer than usual.

I will keep watching on here, but for the most part the MH systems ive seen are way out of my price range. the good part about the DIY is that I can split the purchases into 2 pieces of $50 each which is much easier for the spouse to accept.
 
Which Kelvin is best is a very hot topic, but IMO the 6500 while being more yellow is the best for coral growth. Considering the VHO Actinics you have listed in your signature it shouldn't be a problem blueing up the tank with those as supplements.

I personally wouldn't go any closer than about 10" from the surface of the water. Any closer the splashing could be a problem, and you would also have problems with heat transfer into the water. Even if you place the lights 10" above the water make sure you design some air circulation into the hood. Metal Halides are very, very hot.

Thanks for the link by the way. I am currently designing lighting for my 360 and would like to keep the cost down since I will have to put at least 4 halides over it.
 
I just read through the above link and noticed that there is nothing in it about using a capacitor. I am definately no electrician, but I have used and built many halide systems in the last 14 years and have never seen a magnetic balast (which this setup is) used for halides without a capacitor.

I am going to do a little research on this and maybe someone on this board could offer a little advice regarding the use and necessity of capacitors in this application.
 
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