Low level sump cutoff switch - Anyone use this?

B

BigTex

[Does anyone use a low water level sump cutoff switch? If so, how is this setup? I would think it should work in the exact reverse of a topoff switch, but I'm not sure. Can anyone recommend parts, diagrams or manufacturers for this?]
 
[i personally do not have a float switch but i know a few people who do. i know that many float switches can be used for high water and lower water applications. i really dont know a good brand to tell you about but i found one that you could use as a low water level sump cutoff switch at marinedepot.com. its $60 and is called ultralife float switch. dont really know if thats a good brand or a good price for it. good luck though.]
 
[I think I've found the part I'm looking for! :eyebrows:

http://www.123ponds.com/ligilowwasho.html

Little Giant Low Water Shut Off Switch w/10ft Cord

110 volt switch for up to 1/2 hp - Has a 10ft Cord.

* The low water pump shut off switch hangs in a skimmer or pond next to the pump
* It's cord runs to the outlet where the pump's plug goes into the back of the switch's plug.
* When the water drops too low, the switch turns the pump off; when the water level comes back up the switch turns the pump back on
* The switch can be lifted out of the skimmer to turn off the pump, so the skimmer can be cleaned out
* 10 Amps Maximum - UL/CSA Listed

This switch has a 10 foot cord and will work with any brand of pump, even external pumps.

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[Jim, that is an expensive pump upgrade if you are trying to merely break the circuit. From what I can see, it isn't the pump itself, but only the switch, right?

You can do the same thing with a $3-6 float switch from www.floatswitches.com that also runs on 110v. Most people don't recommend using 110v switches in their tanks, and opt for a relay instead. It changes the power to 12 or 24v.

Set it up with the float switch mounted securely in your sump. When the water level drops too low, the float drops, which breaks the circuit in the power line. In the outlet end of that cord, you have your pump plugged in.

One more thing for you to think about. When the water level gets too low, the pump will shut off. Some water will come back down the line from the tank drain and the return pipe. Water level rises somewhat and the pump turns back on again. Pump pushes this water up, float switch senses low water and shuts off the pump again. This cycle will repeat itself, and with the pump turning on and off so many times sequentially, odds are your pump will die.

You'd be better just buying an extra pump as back up instead of this configuration.]
 
[Thanks for the info Marc. I just wanted to build in an extra level of safety in the setup. I have a newly setup 80gallon tank with a 800gph overflow into a 29gallon sump and a Mag 9.5 return pump. This is about 5 feet away from my new Olhausen billiard table so my wife and I just wanted the warm fuzzy feeling of an added failsafe in the system :uhoh:

We're usually out of town 1 weekend a month and I fear the idea of a dry pump burning itself out if something goes wrong when we're gone. Not sure which I fear more, the loss of a pump which is easily replaceable, or the fire hazard. I tend to be a bit paranoid and usually plan to over-engineer things like this.

I support a major data center that hosts over 1,500 online banking related servers, so by standard operating procedure I tend to think in terms of worst case scenario when planning a project.]
 
[DallasJose has a system that would work for your needs. You'll need to contact him about it. His will shut off the pump for 10 minutes before it will restart, which will protect it from burning up.]
 
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