losing heads on blue sating hammer

[Charlie]

Have you tested Ca or Mg recently? Other parameters looks good so I'd make sure to test Ca.

 

[bimmerzs]

How are you checking SG.....refractometer or Hydrometer. If using refractometer, make sure it's still calibrated. If you have changed around powerhead locations or rockwork, make sure they both are not in high flow areas. Did you acclimate your corals to your new lighting system.

Cheers,

 

[bimmerzs]

@acat1976 wrote:

Bill staggers his lighting schedule to simulate cloudy/sunny day's, so unless it's been there a while it still could be lighting related but.... I doubt it, I thought you put that 4 light T5 unit w/icecap's over your tank recently. I would suspect salinity or alk maybe, never hurts to get those two rechecked to verify your kit's/equipment is telling you the truth. I would also make sure the mg is within nsw levels also.

Cheers,

 

[DaveJ]

Your parms are fine... though the mag may be a bit off. Mag is one of those important ones so knowing what is will help. The alk at 8 is a little lower than I keep it, I shoot for 9.

I have many hammers and froggies and just looking at the photo, I would look at flow as a potential issue. They really don't like high flow, medium alternating flow gets them to open up best. Look out for brown jelly on those, if you see that, cut that branch off immediately and dip in Coral Revive or Tropic Marin Pro Coral Cure to help fight off the bacteria.

 

[DaveJ]

That looks pretty healthy... how far under the lights is it and is it off center from a bulb or directly under one?

 

[DaveJ]

@acat1976 wrote:

Depth is fine... even directly under it. Just give it some time to adjust and keep an eye on that top head. My wall hammer took a good 2 months to settle in and finally open up all the way. If it continues to pull in or loses any coloration, move it around a bit and find some place with very little flow and see if it opens up more. If it does open up more, than you found a sweet spot.