Kalk reactor

P

patteto

[Ok, so I really hate the way I am adding kalk to my tank. I have been mixing into my top off water. The top off rubbermaid container is full of sediment and has the crusty top layer. I am having to rinse it out every other week or so.

So, I decided it is time to DIY a kalk reactor. It looks pretty simple. I am planning on using 4.5" arylic tubing for the main body as most DIY plans call for. I have 2 questions:

1. Does it really matter how tall the unit is? I realize I need it to be at least 24" but most plans call for 36". I really don't have enough space to fit 36" reactor so would 24" be ok.

2. Is there any place in town get 4.5" arylic tubing in town?

Thanks for the help.]
 
[Hi
I don't know of any one in the metroplex that carries
tubes but you can get them online for not to much.
As far as the hieght goes the taller the better the co2 can only go up once so the longer the contact time the better they work. HTH
Joe]
 
[Allied or Regal plastics sells 4" tubes (4.5" OD). See post in DIY forum for more suppliers of things you'll need

As far as the height. If you are going with a 24" reactor I would add a thin 24" effluent tube. Use 1" pvc and caps, slip on bottom, threaded on the top so you can clean it. Attach that to the side of the reactor and it will help settle out any of the powder before it gets in the tank. Go out the top of the reactor into the effluent tube and then out the top of the tube to the tank. Make sure to go in the top of the effluent chamber. Use clear PVC tubing, NDA has some, to push the water toward the bottom, short output tube, 2" or so is fine, long input tube, 12" or so inside the tube of the effluent chamber. Going into the bottom would be bad, because the kalk powder settles on the bottom and will block the input over time. The only disadvantage to the shorter 24" mixing chamber is that you might dump unmixed powder in the tank. The higher height helps to create an area in the largher tube that is clear. IME the height made little difference. My pump pushed hard enough that the whole chamber was cloudy during mixing. Adding the second tube helps!

JME, HTH, GL]



Edited By jhead67 on 1096937008
 
[I will sell you my old one. Used for about 3 yrs. Upgraded tank and built a 38" reactor.

If you dont buy it, I would recommecd you build at least 3' tall. The reason for this is so you will not overdose your tank. It can happen on short model.

If you want a pic give me your email.]
 
[I made mine 32 inches then cut it down to 24 inches to have it run better.

Talk to you tomarrow when I get my southdown.]
 
[Well the Kalk reactor was built last weekend. It should be installed tonight. It turned out to be about 32" tall. The circulation pump in about 11" off the bottom with another 20" or so to the output. At this height, I think I will have little or no powder making it to the sump. Even if it does, there is plenty of volume in the sump to prevent the kalk from getting into the tank.

Once I get a digital camera I will post pics.]
 
[This helps tremendously. Thanks.

I got a 6' section of 4.5" arcylic tubing from Allied Plastics Supply Inc for $21. said:
How can you get it so cheaply? I'm planing out my DIY protein skimmer and my last quote as of today is $52 for a 6', 4 1/2" OD arcrylic tube.

Thanks,]
Click to expand...
 
[FYI patteto

It does not matter volume of sump for overdosing. I have a 55gallon sump (lots of volume) but its the turnover. If you have your reef setup with the proper amount of turnover this is what you need to watch. I have been using a kalk reactor for well over 3 yrs......trust me they can foul up.....which can and will harm live stock.......this is IMO only take it for what it is

and I hope this helps

PS

your second link was the original design I used/but I did modify it.]



Edited By Tpeck on 1097013568
 
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