If I have a controller, do I need an ATO?

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Double M

Hey all,

Slowly working on assembling all the pieces for the 140 and am considering a JBJ ATO and ultimately a AC Jr controller. I want to conserve $ where I can, so am wondering if I really need the ATO if I have a reliable controller and pump?

I realize that evaporation rates aren't constant (though mine are pretty constant in the 55) and that the float valves give you the added security if evap rates change dramatically, but if evap stays mostly constant, do you really need an ATO or can you just rely on your controller to start and stop the ATO reservoir pump to replace evap?

Any thoughts are appreciated.

Thanks,
 
I use an ATO unit on each of our tanks and would highly recommend their use. The evaporation rate does vary a lot mainly influenced by the weather and the amount of moisture in the air. An ATO will adjust to those changes without any intervention from me.

By the way I also have an Apex controller on the 200 gal tank and still use the ATO unit even though the Apex can perform the same function. The main logic is that I already have the unit so might as well use it. In either case a float switch will trigger the supply pump no matter which is controlling it so therefore is does not matter which one you use. If I did not already have the ATO unit and was getting a controller, I would use it for top off.
 
If a aquacontroller you will need breakout box and float switches.
 
Kuyatwo,

I'm confused. Wouldn't I just plug the pump into a dc8 and program the timer to turn it on and off at certain times, thus forgoing the need for float switches (and I don't know what a breakout box is)?

Any others out there who use just a controller and a pump for topoff without float switches? I'd love to have both, but the budget is limited and I still have to buy lights, a tank (to build a diy sump), dosing pumps...

Thanks,
 
@Double M wrote:
Kuyatwo said:
I would not run a top off pump on a timer as the evaporation rate in the tank varies and with a timer controlled pump you could add too much or too little water. By using a float switch you add only when needed and the correct amount.

Here is a breakout box:
http://www.reefgeek.com/equipment/Controllers_&_Monitors/Neptune_Systems_AquaController/Apex_Controller_&_Accessories/IO_Breakout_Box_by_Neptune_Systems
Click to expand...
 
you are better off with an ATO the acjr only comes with one optional external switch. IMO you need at least 2 for top off.
 
Forgive me for my ignorance about high-tech solutions, but I don't understand exactly what you mean by "one optional external switch". I intend to purchase the DC8 bank of outlets when I buy the controller; are these taps (outlets/plugs--whatever you want to call them), different from "optional external switches"?

Thanks for your help
 
The DC8 is the 8 controllable outlet bank. the optional external switch lets the controller accept external input for example if you have a float switch you can use that input to control an outlet response.

The ACjr is not the best platform to use switches on since there is only one if you have the optional serial port on it. When I was running the ACjr I used it for controlling my lights, fan, chiller, etc. the ACjr is very good at controlling outlets based on time, temperature, and pH. If you want to get more advanced there is a thread where people have posted there AC programs. http://dfwmas.org/Forums/viewtopic.php?f=94&t=48031&p=550838
 
I use an ACIII, w. breakout box, and I have two JBJ float switches.

I spliced the ends so they would communicate the up/down(black/white) position of the float switch to the ACIII via the breakout box. Both are set up to trigger a signal to the ACIII when it is full(up) or when it needs water(down). This is my failsafe so that if one gets stuck the other (sightly higer) will catch it.

Also I only have a max of 5g rodi which lasts me about a week so that if it ever did dump the entire 5g I would still be ok in my main tank.
 
@washingtond wrote:
[I]@Double M wrote:[/I][quote="Kuyatwo said:
I would not run a top off pump on a timer as the evaporation rate in the tank varies and with a timer controlled pump you could add too much or too little water. By using a float switch you add only when needed and the correct amount.

Here is a breakout box:
http://www.reefgeek.com/equipment/Controllers_&_Monitors/Neptune_Systems_AquaController/Apex_Controller_&_Accessories/IO_Breakout_Box_by_Neptune_Systems"]


I too have an AC Jr and am interested in this. But after reading about it on the link, the breakout box states
(Not compatible with AquaController Jr.) said:
Any other options?
Click to expand...
Click to expand...
 
the break out box is for the ac pro and apex I think there are 2 pins on the mini din8 connector that can be used as a switch but I have not seen any documentation on it. You might have to contact neptune systems for which pins can be used as a switch.
 
So, it sounds like the consensus is that if I want to automate topoff, I should use some type of system incorporating float switches.

Based on further reading, it seems that most people use 2 float switches for redundency and several people also have their RO/DI unit plumbed with a solenoid to refill the ATO reservoir...so I'm wondering what setups you all have and what equipment you use.

I'm currently looking at:

1. JBJ ATO not attached to a controller in any way, thus relying solely on the two float switches to do their job

2. A double float valve/switch set up from autotopoff.com (only 50 without the need to DIY seems like a pretty good deal)

3. Perhaps a solenoid from autotopoff.com plugged into the dc8 on a controller and opened for an hour or two per day to refill the ATO reservoir.

4. Not a Tunze Osmo (too much $$ for the budget)

5. Other suggestions?

Thanks for all your help!
 
Personally I like the jbj ato with one float in the sump and one float in the reservoir. In that configuration the sump is maintained at a nominal water level and the second switch is used to make sure that the pump in the reservoir does not run dry. Just get yourself a nice and slow pump like an aqualifter so that the internal safety will be able to turn off the water in time if I remember correctly if it is on for 3min it will automatically shut down. Also I would not hook up your ro/di to the reservoir since you want to size the reservoir such that if were to get stuck in the on position it will not overflow your tank or kill your fish.

It is not if your float will get stuck it is when. Periodically you want to take the float switch out and clean it with some vinegar to remove the deposits.
 
I will always recommend "two" float switches. The reason is I've had a snail clog up my float switch when I just had one. It dumped all my RO/DI in my sump. My failsafe back then was that I only had the ro/di half-way filled so it only added 1 extra gallon to my sump, but it kept my pump running until I saw that it was stuck on.

I then added a 2nd float switch. You sill have to clean them occasionally.
 
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