How to order LED DIY from steve'sleds

I am ready to switch to led on my biocube but I am having trouble picking the right parts

Also the calculator is confusing and does not appear to work

Any help would be appreciated

Thanks
 
I want to be able to keep anything in a biocube 29 gallon.
I will probably only keep zoas in it but I would like to have the option to put my anemones in there as well and have a place for any other coral that is just not doing well in the other tank
 
Try his online store, It has premade fixtures. My coral loves the one i got from Steve! http://shop.stevesleds.com/
 
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Here is my order does this sound right at all? Should I add more LEDs in case I decide on keeping a clam?
 
@bmd85 wrote:
[img]http://184.72.239.143/mu/46749af8-77c0-2465.jpg[/img] alt=""> Here is my order does this sound right at all? Should I add more LEDs in case I decide on keeping a clam? said:
I think you will need the quad driver, and the 200 watt power supply to run that many LEDs. And you need a heatsink. The 100w PS will run 4 strings of 5 LEDs, if I remember correctly. That's 20 max, and you are ordering 25 LEDs.

I have a question. You have 1 green LED. Can you string that with the other colors, or does it have to have its own driver chip. You also have 2 white LEDs. Do they need their own driver chip, too? If so, you might need 1 quad driver, plus another driver as well to run all of those. I noticed that Steve does not mix different colors of LEDs on his strings - that's why I ask.

David
 
Hey guys,
Please allow me to clarify a few things about the new pre-assembled heatsinks. We have Biocube retrofits in the prototyping stage, but nothing ready for production yet.

The standard heatsink offerings are as follows: (products are being added daily.)

The single-chip LED products are offered for budget reefers. If you have a few extra bucks, the two-chip LEDs are the way to go.

1. 10" Heatsink with 1 array (group of 7) of double-chip white leds
2. 10" Heatsink with 1 array (group of 7) of double-chip blue leds
3. 20" Heatsink with 2 arrays (groups of 7) of double-chip white leds
4. 20" Heatsink with 2 arrays (groups of 7) of double-chip blue leds
5. 30" Heatsink with 3 arrays (groups of 7) of double-chip white leds
6. 30" Heatsink with 3 arrays (groups of 7) of double-chip blue leds

or
1. 10" Heatsink with 1 array (group of 6) of single-chip white leds
2. 10" Heatsink with 1 array (group of 6) of single-chip blue leds
3. 20" Heatsink with 2 arrays (groups of 6) of single-chip white leds
4. 20" Heatsink with 2 arrays (groups of 6) of single-chip blue leds
5. 30" Heatsink with 3 arrays (groups of 6) of single-chip white leds
6. 30" Heatsink with 3 arrays (groups of 6) of single-chip blue leds

Our led systems are modular. For example, if you needed a system for a 48" tank, you would order a 30" and a 10" heatsink and join them with our custom "gator" extension bracket. This allows room for the pressurizing cooling fan. I recommend one tank-length of heatsink for freshwater aquariums, two lengths for saltwater tanks that are less than 24" deep and three tank lengths for deep tanks and those who want to put SPS and other high light requirement livestock on the sandbed. This is a rule of thumb, and a good starting point.

Example:
If you have a 125 gallon tank that is 48" wide and is 25" deep. You will need 3 - 30" heatsinks, and 3 - 10" heatsinks and 2 Gator Extension brackets. You would attach the 30" and 10" heatsinks to create 3 - 40" heatsinks. Attach 3 fans and you are ready to grow ANY species of coral! You can find whatever combination of drivers that you see fit for your application, however, I would choose 3 Quad drivers, that way, I can control an entire 40" heatsink with a single dimmer knob.

The colors are grouped together so that you will be able to adjust the color temperature on your tank from 8,500K - 22,000K. If the LEDs were interlaced (white-blue-white-blue-white-blue) you would not be able to control color temperature. In almost every application, you will not get spotlighting, because the LED lenses are at a beam angle of 90°, so the beams overlap approximately 6" from the heatsink (if the arrays are spaced about 8" apart.)

All drivers come with dimming stock!

Heatsinks come pre-assembled with the leds wired together and riveted onto the heatsink. The customer is required to attach (solder) the positive and negative wires onto the arrays and rivet on the cooling fan (cooling fans tend to get damaged if pre-mounted onto the heatsink.) We provide a detailed step-by-step directions to get you through the wiring process. Very soon, we will have detailed you-tube videos of the installation process on our website.

The drivers do require a minimum number of LEDs, depending on the type of LED. The drivers do require a minimum of 6 LEDs per driver with the 24V power supply, a driver with the 15V power supply can run 4 LEDs. The drivers are digital, and can't adapt to fewer LEDs.

I believe DFWMAS is allowing me to be the speaker for the February or March meeting, so you will be able to see a demo unit first hand!

Thanks,
Steve
 
Hi steve, Thanks for the information,

Do you know about how long it might be before the biocube kit is available? any kind of estimate would be great

Right now I have everything in one tank as one of my ballast for the biocube went out and I dont want to spend money on replaceing something that is obsolete.

Thanks again,
Bruce
 
Sorry to ask these questions before release

How many LEDs will it come with and the price.
How customized will it be to the BC29.
Just trying to evaluate the pros and cons of waiting 2 months

Thanks!
 
We have 2 Prototypes, one with 36 leds and one with 28 leds. Both include 3 watt leds.
In the 36 led

Quote:


system, the PAR was about 600 at 10 inches, and all of the corals began to die, so we had to dim it down quite a bit. The 28 led system works better and has a more realistic intensity level. At full brightness, it is still too much light for softies. Of course, it is still dimmable. The best configuration includes 14 cool whites and 14 royal blues. It gives a variable color emp range from 10,000K to 20,000+K.

The installation requires removal of the BC29 existing PC lighting and fans, cutting one of the fan baffles out with wire cutters, and cutting a 2" hole in the hood over the left-most fan vent. The existing cooling system just can't move enough air to keep 90 watts of LEDs cool enought, there is no way around it. This packs in a ultra quiet 38cfm pressurizing fan, which is typically quieter than the origional fans.

The heatsink will be welded aluminum square heatsink tubing, keeping temps below 115 degrees F. All drivers will be mounted in the hood, only the power supply will be external, just like the ballast of a MH lamp.


The cost will be less expensive than anything else on the market, by a long shot.

Thanks for the question!
Steve
 
Thank you so much steve, I'll be waiting for the 28 led setup then, you can <u>sign me up for the presale</u> and I'll see if I can come to the next meeting you speak at.
 
does anybody know steve phone number? i ordered something from his website but it didn't go through. please let me know so i can call him directly.

thanks,
ken
 
It looks like Paypal had some difficulty accepting your payment. I have sent you an email so we can get this taken care of right away.

Our phone number is (903) 634-7332

Thanks!

Steve
 
Hi Steve,

I sent you a few emails regarding to my orders status but haven't hear anything from you. if you read this email please response and let me know. I really appreciate that.

Thanks,
Ken
 
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