Green everywhere

R

ReefNut2010

I have a green algae bloom. I've been raising my magnesium hoping this helps. I even have a green carpet developing on my sand bed!!! How do I combat this issue. Right now I have 5 Nerite snails, 5 Cerith snails and 5 Nassarius snails. Should I add to the crew? I'm thinking YES ! How many more would be good?? What else can I do ???
 
@ReefNut2010 wrote:
I have a green algae bloom. I've been raising my magnesium hoping this helps. I even have a green carpet developing on my sand bed!!! How do I combat this issue. Right now I have 5 Nerite snails said:
Depending on the type of algae it is, magnesium won't neccesarily kill it. Bryopsis is killed off by Kent Tech-M. As for hair algae, manual removal is good, just make sure it doesn't get all over your tank and hold it in your hand not letting go. As for other methods. SEA HARE!
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Also what are your prams and what size tank do you have??? Are you usinga fuge and skimmer?? How much flow?
 
Tank is 125g.I have a small fuge w/Chetao(12x15) flow is good in there, and it's not green.Octopus skimmer rated for 150g w/mesh mod. It works well. Good flow in the tank. I was keeping my MH (175 wattsx2) on for about 10hrs and my t5s one actinic and one white on for about an hour more.Today I just turned all lights off. I'll probably keep them off for the next couple of days. The green stuff on the sand bed is what really bugs me and I don't even know what it is !! This is a very new set up. This probably makes a difference.

Just tested water for Nitrate and Phosphate and both came back at 0 ppm. [So what's the deal??]
 
I would day my lighting schedule like this:

Actintics: 2 hrs before MH
MH: 5 to 8 hours
Actintics: 2 hrs after MH

You have your lights on for way to long, IMHO. Which could definitely be a huge contributor to the GHA.
 
@Renmar wrote:
I would day my lighting schedule like this: Actintics: 2 hrs before MH MH: 5 to 8 hours Actintics: 2 hrs after MH You have your lights on for way to long said:
2nd this way to long for MH lighting IMHO. You say a new setup??? How new?? Do you have live stock in here and has it cycled already?
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Tank has cycled fully and has been up for 7 weeks. Water tests 0 ppm for Nitrate and Phosphate. I have 4 small frags, a Yellow Tail Damsel, Percula Clown, and a six line wrasse.....all very,very small. I have done 2- 30g water changes in the last couple of weeks and plan to bring them down to 20g biweekly from here on out.

Reset my lighting to..... T-5s 1 hour before/ 1 hour after MH lights, for a total of 8 hrs.
MH lights on for 6 hrs. Is this good or still to much?

Sorry guys, but what does IMHO mean? [smilie=lol.gif]
 
One thing to add also is I try and keep about 50 snails in my tank but have had 100 in there and it is only a 55g. Might want to get a few more for in there.
 
Looked up IMHO...abbreviations are hilarious. Wow, 100 snails is quite a bit !! I have a ways to go. What's the best way to split, as I like the aforementioned species. Also, do you guys keep snails in your fuge?

Thanks for the help guys. I'm learning as I go. Try to read quite a bit, but nothing beats experience and most of you have it.
 
I would say that this light cycle isn't too long, but it would help to cut it down. Eventually, you can raise it back up though.

Have you tried a tank blackout?
 
10 hours of MH is insane.

I would do the lighting schedule that I recommended. You need a dusk to dawn and sunset period, which is why it is customarily a 2 hr period between MH off and the actintics on. But hell, what do I know...
 
yes your lights are on too long for a tank that new. Cycled doesnt mean its muture. As far as a dusk , dawn and sunset photo period, I think it may be ok to try to imitate nature as best we can. Whether its necessary i say thats msotly personal preference. I dont do it and it works for me. Im just running all vho's though. Mixed sps/lps tank

So if it were me, I would cut the lights back total to around 8 hours a day max or less if its not helping till the tank gets matured some. Otherwise the rocks, sand and glass with be a algae farm. If sand is getting covered i would say not enough flow in that area. Go slow its a young tank. Dont rush to pile a bunch of corals in and blast the daylights out of them or you will have ugly algae blooms. I think this is why alot people get frustrated and give up in this hobby.

Patience is best...ok just my 2 dollars worth and then some.

Also where you located? Maybe someone near by that can give you a quick look
 
I think you'll need plane tickets to come see my tank [smilie=rofl.gif] . I'm in La Puente, California. Like I said before, I'm going to keep all lights off for the next 3 days or so and build back up to the new light schedule. I hope it works, because nothing is uglier than a green aquarium!
One other question... How long do you guys keep your leds on at night? I had the leds on at night for 6 hrs, and I'm thinking this did not help.They are beautiful, with a shimmering affect, but maybe I need to cut them down too.
 
I buy my water for water changes from the LFS. I am going to have to test it, just to make sure it's not the problem. What I have on my sand is green Cyano and Bryopsis.Looks like I have my work cut out for me. Wish me luck!

Looks like I'm reding 0ppm on Nitrates & Phos only because the algae are consuming the nutrients, but they're there!!

I plan on making these changes....
Test current water supply used for water changes
More frequent changes for now (weekly 20 percent) and syphon rocks & sand
Move powerheads/total current flow in tank about 3000gph. More than enough...I think(sometimes it looks like a Hurricane is passing through in there).
Turn off lights then build up to new schedule
Stop using current brand of Carbon (probably leaching Phos) Marineland brand
Currently using Phos Ban/no change there
Also, remove all sponge pre filters (one large 1 in the baffle, 1 on the return pump)
Should start dosing Vodka soon. Just a little more research.
Get a life.........I'm on here way to often [smilie=rofl.gif]

Am I missing anything?
 
@bimmerzs wrote:
[I]@acat1976 wrote:[/I][quote="What type is good carbon to use ? How do you recommend to use it and how often to change. Does carbon really clarify the water and help it look crystal clear? said:
Here's everything you ever want to know about carbon and how to choose what's best. http://joejaworski.wordpress.com/2008/05/09/does-a-reef-tank-need-carbon/ Also.... marineland carbon is actually pretty good when stacked up against some of the very expensive brand names. :) I use the lignite carbon from bulk reef supply myself. :D

Cheers,"]

Hi,

Marineland is one of the better rated, a lot of the carbon comes from the same source and are rebranded, check out the above link along with the below link's.....pretty much everything you ever wanted to know about carbon. [smilie=smile.gif] The third link is another good chart with the different branded carbon's and how they perform.

http://web.archive.org/web/20000918065426/http://www.animalnetwork.com/fish2/aqfm/1998/may/features/1/default.asp
http://web.archive.org/web/20000918065819/http://www.animalnetwork.com/fish2/aqfm/1998/june/features/1/default.asp
http://web.archive.org/web/20010421224430/www.animalnetwork.com/fish2/aqfm/1998/may/features/1/photo1.asp


Cheers,
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@ReefNut2010 wrote:
I buy my water for water changes from the LFS. I am going to have to test it said:
i would add a filter sock
it is refreshing to see someone combat this this rather than throw in the towel
keep up the good work and you can never be on here to often
also i would change the phosban out weekly until under control
and hold off the vodka thing
just my 2 cents
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