I wanted to get rid of the Canister filter and HOB Fuge on my wife's 46g corner tank. I got this idea to widen the opening in the center compartment of the stand so that my ProClear 125 Wet/Dry would fit and allow for the cabinet door to close.
This meant that I would have to widen the opening in the back of the compartment so that the wet/dry would fit through the back of the stand. It would also mean that I would have to convert the wet/dry to a sump/fuge so I could eliminate the HOB fuge.
Before you start laughing, I did this as a test to make sure it would work. In order to convert the wet/dry to a sump/fuge I would have to reconfigure the bio ball chamber and force it to overflow from the top as opposed to the bottom where the sponge was.
Here is a picture of the wet/dry before I started the reconfiguration;
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Here is a picture of the wet/dry from the return side showing the pre-drilled holes that will now become the overflow into the return chamber.
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Ok, here is where the laughing comes in. Remember I was testing this theory so the configuration change had to be temp so that I could return to normal operation if needed so nothing is permanent yet. I removed the bio balls and the egg crate as well as the top drip plate. Using Styrofoam I cut a piece to fit where the sponge was to block the flow of water from the bottom of the old bio ball chamber and force the water to fill the chamber and overflow through the holes that were already in the unit as shipped. Note that the holes are round. When I make this permanent I will elongate them for better flow. I believe elongation also prevents the holes from being overwhelmed by water and not working if air cannot pass through with the water.
Here is a picture with the foam in place;
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Then I added my Coral Life 65 HOB Skimmer because I didn't like the skimmer that was built in (could never get it to skim correctly). Also added the heater to the inlet chamber;
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Shot from above showing the macro algae in the now fuge chamber. I did not add the sand yet again because I am testing this configuration. As expected the foam did not make a complete seal but I knew that was going to happen.
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I then slid the unit into the stand and filled it with water. Because the stand was shorter then the wet/dry it extends through the back into the corner. It makes it a little difficult to get to the skimmer cup but I can reach it LOL.
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We then topped off the tank and got the overflow working and started the pump and added the light above the fuge section.
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This next shot is a close up of the water flow from the top of the fuge section into the return chamber. This is where you will notice the water almost covering the holes that were already drilled in the unit. By elongating these holes more air will be at the top of the hole to allow the water to flow freely.
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The next shot show the tank and new sump/fuge fully operational. the tank top fit back on the tank and the lights (currently only 24" 48w T5's). We will be adding PC lighting to this tank once I get the lights from Albert that I told him I would buy from him. Both light fixtures will fit on the top of the tank. A 75 or 100 watt MH may be in my wife's future.
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As I stated earlier, this was a test of my conversion theory and it works. I am not please with the water level to get to those holes that were pre-drilled so I am going to put another baffle in place about 2 inches before the wall the Styrofoam is on and remove the Styrofoam. This will lower the water level in the fuge section and allow a baffle (over then under) to help eliminate bubbles.
We also replaced the return pump (old Rio) with a Quietone 3000 (old Serk pump). I will let it run a while until i get the new piece of plastic cut and get the silicone to put it in place permanently. I will then add the sand, some live rubble rock to the fuge chamber and let it run a few days to see how it goes. We had to do some tweaking of the water level after a few simulated power failure tests. Because the water level is critical (low in the return chamber to prevent overflow during power outage) I will most likely put an auto top off on this as well. The water level in the return section cannot go higher than 2" above the pump.
Any additional comments or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
This meant that I would have to widen the opening in the back of the compartment so that the wet/dry would fit through the back of the stand. It would also mean that I would have to convert the wet/dry to a sump/fuge so I could eliminate the HOB fuge.
Before you start laughing, I did this as a test to make sure it would work. In order to convert the wet/dry to a sump/fuge I would have to reconfigure the bio ball chamber and force it to overflow from the top as opposed to the bottom where the sponge was.
Here is a picture of the wet/dry before I started the reconfiguration;
Here is a picture of the wet/dry from the return side showing the pre-drilled holes that will now become the overflow into the return chamber.
Ok, here is where the laughing comes in. Remember I was testing this theory so the configuration change had to be temp so that I could return to normal operation if needed so nothing is permanent yet. I removed the bio balls and the egg crate as well as the top drip plate. Using Styrofoam I cut a piece to fit where the sponge was to block the flow of water from the bottom of the old bio ball chamber and force the water to fill the chamber and overflow through the holes that were already in the unit as shipped. Note that the holes are round. When I make this permanent I will elongate them for better flow. I believe elongation also prevents the holes from being overwhelmed by water and not working if air cannot pass through with the water.
Here is a picture with the foam in place;
Then I added my Coral Life 65 HOB Skimmer because I didn't like the skimmer that was built in (could never get it to skim correctly). Also added the heater to the inlet chamber;
Shot from above showing the macro algae in the now fuge chamber. I did not add the sand yet again because I am testing this configuration. As expected the foam did not make a complete seal but I knew that was going to happen.
I then slid the unit into the stand and filled it with water. Because the stand was shorter then the wet/dry it extends through the back into the corner. It makes it a little difficult to get to the skimmer cup but I can reach it LOL.
We then topped off the tank and got the overflow working and started the pump and added the light above the fuge section.
This next shot is a close up of the water flow from the top of the fuge section into the return chamber. This is where you will notice the water almost covering the holes that were already drilled in the unit. By elongating these holes more air will be at the top of the hole to allow the water to flow freely.
The next shot show the tank and new sump/fuge fully operational. the tank top fit back on the tank and the lights (currently only 24" 48w T5's). We will be adding PC lighting to this tank once I get the lights from Albert that I told him I would buy from him. Both light fixtures will fit on the top of the tank. A 75 or 100 watt MH may be in my wife's future.
As I stated earlier, this was a test of my conversion theory and it works. I am not please with the water level to get to those holes that were pre-drilled so I am going to put another baffle in place about 2 inches before the wall the Styrofoam is on and remove the Styrofoam. This will lower the water level in the fuge section and allow a baffle (over then under) to help eliminate bubbles.
We also replaced the return pump (old Rio) with a Quietone 3000 (old Serk pump). I will let it run a while until i get the new piece of plastic cut and get the silicone to put it in place permanently. I will then add the sand, some live rubble rock to the fuge chamber and let it run a few days to see how it goes. We had to do some tweaking of the water level after a few simulated power failure tests. Because the water level is critical (low in the return chamber to prevent overflow during power outage) I will most likely put an auto top off on this as well. The water level in the return section cannot go higher than 2" above the pump.
Any additional comments or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.