DIY Tank Stand for Dummies

G

GeoffreyB

Ok, excuse the humor, but hey, I'm not a professional woodworker either (I do however, work as a structural engineer - only 9 months until I can take the license exam!)

I've posted and talked to people that were building their own stands, and since my purchase of a 100 gallon tank with the ugliest stand ever to be built, I thought this would be a good opportunity to show everyone my design that can be built with a minimum of woodworking skills, or tools.

I know that this design is SIMPLE, and I intentionally did it this way, so that anyone with a handsaw, drill, and a little patience can build a stand themselves. This is the 6th stand I've built, and you could say this is the culmination of all the corrections I've made.

I'm going to do this in two parts, since it's taken me almost two months to get just the frame built. Yes, having two children isn't TWICE as hard and time consuming as one...it's TEN TIMES as time consuming!!!

This first part will cover the frame - the second will cover the skin. I don't know for sure when I'll start the skin, but I'll post it as I get things done.

So, without further adieu......
 
The first step is to create a top and bottom frame. These frames start off completely identical. Well, mostly. I built both my top and bottom out of 2x4. You could use 2x6 for the top, and possibly not need center supports, but it depends on what size tank you're building for.

I HIGHLY recommend you make the OUTSIDE dimensions of the frames 1/2" MORE than the OUTSIDE MEASUREMENTS OF THE PLASTIC TRIM RING AT THE BOTTOM OF YOUR TANK. Excuse all the caps...but if you don't have the play room, or try to build this to the glass dimensions, it won't work (remember, there is a skin, and trim coming later!!).

Here's a picture of the frame. Notice how the "short" sides run between the "long" front and back piece.
 
Here is how the frames are connected. Please make sure that your cuts are STRAIGHT. It's a lot easier to take your time and cut well, than to deal with problems later. Remember, measure twice, cut once.

These are 12d (12 penny) framing nails. I will tell you, nailing into the END of a piece of lumber is an AWFUL connection, it simply is NOT very strong. This is not a connection that will carry a load, it's simply holding things together.

You can use screws for this if you wish.
 
Next are the supports, legs, columns...whatever you want to call them.

You may say that this is overkill, and it is for a small tank, but I'm building for a 100 gallon tank, and there are a few boring structural reasons I'm doing it this way - remember, I'm an engineer, and overly conservative - but my stuff NEVER falls down.

Here is a topdown view of what the finished supports look like. The two outside legs will bear directly on the bottom frame from above, and the top frame will bear directly on the top of them. The inside leg will run from the side of the top frame, down past the side of the bottom frame, to the floor.
 
The 2 pieces of the support that are parallel should be nailed together with those big 12d nails at 3" on center offset, as shown here.

The piece that is perpendicular will have the same nailing pattern, but each "row" of nails will be nailed into the side of one of the parallel pieces.
 
So far so good. :)

(I would like anyone that is viewing this thread to PM me if they can't see all of this page at 1024 x 768. I have to scroll from side to side for some reason, even though the images aren't too wide. I don't understand why this is occuring, and I'd like to know if others are seeing it like I am. I'm using Internet Explorer 6.0.

Remember, PM me. Don't clutter up this thread - all posts in reply to my question will be deleted. Thanks!)
 
So here's the connection at the base of the supports. I used a Simpson right angle connector (the steel piece you see) just for ease of construction. Rather than spend the big bucks on the Simpson screws, I just used the largest gage roofing nails that would fit! Note that the face of the connector is to the INSIDE of the stand.

Also, note the two 1/4" lag bolts (3" long) that connect the full length (darker) piece to the bottom frame. You will also have two at the top, to connect to the top frame.

Also note that there is a SMALL gap (1/16") at the bottom of the full length support. It doesn't actually touch the ground. Again, just trust me on this one.
 
Here is the base, with all four legs attached. Note how the outer supports are all the same height, which will allow the top frame to bear directly on top of them. The top full height support will line up with the top of the upper frame.

How tall is this monstrosity you ask? The bottom of my tank will be 42" off the floor. You don't have to go this high, but I wouldn't try to go much higher with this design.

Since I built my top frame out of 2x4 instead of 2x6, I actually added center legs too - you'll see them soon.
 
Here is where your top frame becomes different from your base frame.

You'll need to add cross members at 16" on center. Because the end-nailed condition I showed above is such a weak connection, I used Simpson joist hangers. These are cheap, and available at your local BORG. Use one at each end of your cross members. Again, I cheated price, and used large gage roofing nails ($1.50) instead of the $6 box of screws. DO put a nail in each hole!!!

You'll want these cross members to be the same depth/size as your top frame - ie, if you made a 2x6 top frame, use 2x6 cross members.
 
Once all your cross members are in place, you'll set the top frame on your four supports.

Side note here - if your stand is 5' long, and you space your cross members out equally, you end up with one in the dead center of the top. This is really a hinderance if you use center legs!!! I forgot about the center legs, and had to offset them in order to miss my cross member! This isn't a big deal with the door layout I intend on using, but it could be if you plan on using 4 doors. I should have used two cross members at the center, one on either side of the center leg.

Here is the frame completely together.

Next step - plywood surfaces!! (And time for me to take more pictures)
 
For those of you thinking about emulating this design:

Keep in mind that some tanks are Reef-Ready with holes in the corners, and the bulkheads might land on the corner supporting uprights. Measure where the bulkheads are on the bottom of your tank, and make sure they are more than 3" away from the back wall / end wall of your tank. If not, they'll hit the 2x4.
 
Wow thanks for the thread.

I want to do my own but I'm afraid it won't come out level. And I read that if it's not just about perfect then it'll cause problems later downt he road.

Sooo...how do you level it so well? I know you can use a leveler but the ones I'm familiar with are the buble kind and eyeballing it doesn't seem like a good idea. I have a table saw but it's one of those cheap $99 ones and not sure if the guide stays EXACTLY still through each cut.
 
Due to a cross-town move a few months ago, my work on the project has ground to a dead stop. I do intend on finishing the project, and the thread once things settle down (read between the lines- once I've finished all the "must do" projects my wife wants done on the new house, a guy has to have some brownie points built up to convince his wife that the new fish tank should be a room divider).

Feasible did a FANTASTIC job on his stand, starting with my frame, definately take a look at his build thread, and feel free to e-mail me with questions if you need a hand.
 
@ScubaLuke wrote:
Thanks I am going to be building my stand either this weekend or next. I will start a build thread said:
Also feel free to ask any questions as well. I will be out of town this weekend but can answer them when I get back.
Click to expand...
 
Ok question for you DIYers.

UNfortunatly my contractor started on my stand for my 450 (120"x36"x25") before talking to me which I specifically told him to get with me before. So here is what I have so far. It's all 2x6

stand.jpg
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What should I tell him about beefing up the corners, additional center bracing, etc.
 
Did you tell him you were going to be putting about 5000lbs or more on that area? :roll: I'll see what you've said on your RC thread as I posted over there earlier today.
 
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