Well, this is a quandry for sure.
Reducing the humidity will make it easier for the AC to cool the room, that will create a greater temp variance between the tank water and the room air that will in turn increase the propensity for evaporation.
I'd spec out a humidifier, find the purchase price then add in power consumtption for 24 hour operation. Then find a suitable chiller and figure out the power consumption for a 10% - 20% working rate. You'd probably find the chiller to be more efficient in the long run. Can always use that convince the spouse to let you go the way of the chiller.
Review the size and number of pumps you're running also. If you have multiple pumps, consider consolidating them into one that is large enough to accomodate all your flow requirements, and if it's in the sump, consider relocating it to the ouside.
The best way to control getting heat out is to control what goes in.
If none of this flies, you can always punch a hole in the wall and run an exhaust outside from the room the tanks are in or relocate your thermostat to the opposite end of the hall.
Or wear shorts and a tank top in the tank room with a coat rack full of winter jackets next to the door.
~~~
I just finished setting my new tank up and have been working on temp settings... Canopy fans come on with the first light and shut off 15 mins after the last light shuts down. I'm currently running a 6 hour photoperiod due to upgrading from 360w PC's to 750w MH and will increase the photoperiod gradually over the next couple of months. The thing i'm paying close attention to is the water temp just before the lights come on, as I don't want to run the heater (0.48 amps) or the chiller (5.5 amps) if I can properly manage a couple .06 amp fans for the right amount of time. The fans will pull the tank temp down 6 degrees on 220g total volume over a 14 hour period if I let it (oops). I also consolidated a mag 12 and a mag 18 running for return, fuge and skimmer into a single sequence dart for dual returns, chiller, skimmer, and fuge lines. The dart is more efficient and adds less heat than the other two combined, and I still have to throttle it back (waiting on the valves to arrive) which will reduce it's power consumption and heat even more.
Hope this helps.
Chris