Deep Sand Bed or Bare Bottom??? Options

I thought I would copy this pretty good but brief article I found on the Marine Depot site. It give a brief overview of the three options of what to use on the bottom of the tank. And I said three, I do not think a layer of crushed coral is an option and apparently neither did they.

An Introduction to the ‘Great Substrate Debate’—Plenums, DSBs & Barebottom Aquaria in a nutshell
by a Marine Depot Staff Member
<hr class="bbcode_rule" />
 
One of my favorite authors used to quote the old adage ‘there are 37 different ways to skin a cat’. In the reef keeping hobby this adage is axiomatic. Given that every single tank is slightly different from any other in methodology used, in how each develops biologically, chemically, and physically, that adage is an extreme understatement. There are general groups of methodologies and philosophies that hobbyists do follow, however, and these can be used to categorize the ‘type’ of aquarium they strive to keep. One of these groupings deals with the type of substrate arrangement hobbyists use in their systems, and there are 3 main categories or methods. Each method is designed to accomplish, or not, what the aquarium keeping community indicates they can, or cannot do best based both on scientific knowledge and anecdotal experience.
In this article, a brief overview of each method’s design and designated purpose will be reviewed, along with some of the pros and cons that are currently being discussed in the online reef keeping community at present. Though the history on their initial usage and development is interesting and important, it will be covered (hopefully) in a future article. This article is not meant to be a scientifically based analysis of exactly what happens, but is meant to be a brief overview comparison only—your mileage may vary.
So without further adieu, here are the ‘big three’:
The Plenum System
“Plenum” means ‘space’, as in the space between a false ceiling or floor, and the true ceiling or floor, through which cables, wires, etc., are placed. In the aquarium world, it refers to a ‘false’ floor space made between a gravel bed and the actual tank bottom. This method and design of gravel bed filtration was popularized by Dr. Jean Jaubert, of the Monaco Aquarium circa 1989.The principal idea is nearly identical to the dsb (‘deep’, or ‘denitrifying’, sand bed) ‘philosophy’—in fact the plenum system of Dr. Jaubert's system is actually the precursor to the dsb, which is actually a Jaubert gravel bed system, minus the plenum, and using sand instead of gravel. It utilizes the processes of aerobic nitrification and anaerobic denitrification. The plenum maintains an area of very low oxygen level on the underside of the gravel bed, most likely leading to less of a truly anaerobic area at the bottom of the bed (than a dsb has).This may create an environment less prone to hydrogen sulfide production than a dsb. The plenum system was initially used on large water to fish volume ratio systems that weren't really representative of the ‘reverse load’ (read: much more bioload to water volume than the huge public aquarium, or the ocean, where the ratio is far in favor of the water volume) of the typical hobbyist's aquarium. Jaubert constructed the plenum using thin rigid PVC sheets perforated with thousands of small holes, and used cut lengths of pvc pipe for supports underneath. Gravel needed to be used to prevent the substrate from ‘leaking’ through the holes. The Plenum also needs larger areas exposed directly to the water column, leaving Jaubert's systems with much lower amounts of live rock. (In direct contrast to the bare bottom (Berlin) method, and in partial contrast to dsb's). The formation of those hydrogen sulfide gas pockets is not necessarily detrimental in a dsb system.
Some of the ‘micro’ organisms that inhabit substrates prefer a smaller grain size for comfort and maneuverability, and gravel may not be as conducive to developing and fostering as wide a range of organisms in the substrate as a finer grain sand is.
The Deep (or denitrating) Sand Bed System
This stands for deep sand bed, or ‘denitrating sand bed’ (also known as an ‘nnr’—natural nitrate reducer, though an nnr can be something other than a sand bed) and comprises a 3–3.5" minimal depth layer of very fine sand, ranging from oolitic dust size particles to about 2mm. The general concept is quite simple. As the depth of the bed increases, the level of oxygen present decreases, in a somewhat ‘layered’ fashion, creating progressively anoxic strata, which become inhabited by ‘reducing’ bacteria of various species that among other things, break nitrates down into nitrogen and oxygen gas. The gas can then leave the aquarium directly by bubbling out of the sand bed. The bed also provides habitat for various other fauna, like worms, snails, various ‘pods’, to name but a few of the inhabitants. It’s generally accepted that in order to provide all of the proper strata or ‘zones’ of the right depth size, 3–3.5" is required as a minimal working bed. Denitration alone may take place at a lesser bed depth if only oolitic sand is used, due to the increased compaction of the smaller, ‘crystal’ like sand grains. Some oolitic beds denitrate at a depth of 2" or less, but the generally recommended minimal depth is 3–3.5".Many aquarists use a much deeper bed, with some reaching depths of > 8".
Dsb's begin to function and produce a noticeable reducing effect on the production of nitrates at the age of about 2 months, and can take up to a year to fully mature to reaching their maximum nitrate reducing potential and speed. Once they become fully established, they can have the capacity to process nitrate at a rate faster than the system will produce it via the oxidization of ammonia through the ‘regular nitrogen cycle’ not only leading to a constant ‘0’ level of nitrates, but making it quite difficult to ‘force’ an elevation above ‘0’ level. This was illustrated in one of my first ‘large’ reef systems of approximately 100 gallons, comprising of a 75 gallon long acrylic tank, with a 40 gallon sump, into which I poured a blenderized shrimp, to ‘test’ the resiliency of the system's organics processing capability—no rise in nitrates was observed at all, over the course of testing daily for nitrates over a subsequent 2 week period. The development of the various life forms in the sand bed over the course of the tank's life was also enjoyable and fascinating.
Dsb's are very low maintenance. They have to be—the more you disturb them, the longer they will take to develop, and there is also the risk of exposing gas pockets that may develop in the very lower layers of sand that if exposed directly to the water column at once, can have catastrophic results. If an attempt is made to clean them, the various layers of relatively more or less anoxic ‘zones’ will get turned over to a different relative concentration of oxygen, which will either kill the particular bacteria, as it's exposed suddenly to that different micro environment, or at the least, force them to migrate back to their original location, interfering with their function. They use two major groups of animals—the bacteria, and the other, larger, fauna that help ‘aerate’ the bed (much the same way in which earthworms aerate soil by tunneling). Various worms, mollusks, ‘pods’, etc., burrow, dig, crawl, and scoot through the sand, creating ‘micro tunnels’, which helps the diffusion and transfer of water (and by extension, oxygen and other gases, nutrients, waste products) throughout the bed. The ‘macro fauna’ are just as important for proper efficient functioning of the bed as the bacteria are—it's an entire ‘mini-ecosystem’ unto itself.
One secondary advantage a dsb, and a plenum provide is that of encouraging greater biodiversity in a saltwater aquarium. An increase of life forms, and the subsequent ‘links of the chain’ they represent, leads to a more resilient and stable ecosystem in the aquarium, as a general rule. It also helps provide a natural source of food production, in the way of various small animals like ‘pods’, worms, etc., for your fish to eat.
The Bare Bottom System
This is fairly self explanatory, and it's the most recent methodology undergoing a ‘push’ in the advanced internet based reef keeping community—the bottom of the aquarium is kept bare and spotless and is the ‘direct descendant’ of the original ‘Berlin’ school/method of reef keeping. Used today mostly by aquarists who are very heavily oriented to High Flow SPS coral tanks. Alot of the sps reefkeepers who have written about going bare bottom seem to have both aesthetic reasons, and a different approach to the ‘waste management via increased biodiversity’ philosophy. High flow, generally of at least 30 times the volume of the aquarium/hour, is required, to keep detritus from settling out in piles on the tank bottom. These systems also utilize very heavy skimming (often ‘wet’ skimming) for maximum (via phytoplankton) nutrient removal. SPS systems do seem to thrive under this particular arrangement.
To sum up, there are three major type of substrate arrangements most commonly used presently in the reef keeping hobby, all of which use different methods to achieve a similar objective, and they will all work to help a reef keeper succeed in keeping their system healthy and thriving—plenum, dsb, and bare bottom systems. No one system is necessarily ‘better’ or ‘worse’ than the other, as long as the individual takes into account the individual ‘peculiarities’ of each system.
 
As a newbie to the hobby, I have undertaken a great bit of research in an attempt to educate myself on how to best keep my "critters ' alive. In regards to the DSB debate, does the pulverized limestone that is being adopted here, qualify as an oolitic type of substrate as far as particulate sizing is concerned. I ask this because although I like the denitrifying qualities of a DSB, I personally don't want 3" - 3.5" of my tank's bottom covered with sand. Before I get into ramble on mode(ROM), I just have one last question, If I use 2" of puverized limestone, does that give me the same results as a DSB.

In Summary:
1. Does pulverized limesone qualify as an oolitic
2. Using a depth of 2" does it perform the same as a "normal 3"-8" DSB.

Cheers :!:
 
The sand should be fine. A 2" bed however is probably not a good option. You will then be in no mans land depth wise. Not deep enough to really function as a DSB but not shallow enogh that the whole thing is aerobic and clean.

Either do really shallow like under an inch or more then 3". It sounds o me like you don't like the look of the DSB so if I were you I would just put a thin layer on the bottom or go bare bottem.
 
I started a thread in the open discussion forum on this also. Supposedly oolitic sand is super fine which creates a super dense bed which gives you denitrafication at a 2" depth. I have read several articles on this and wanted some local input on this since you guys are very knowledgeable on this type of stuff.
 
Ok I went to Home Depot and bought Pavestone Pool Filter Sand. Is that ok...They had pavestone playsand but this is a little finer without the bigger rocks in it. 4.59 a bag. Waiting for a response before I start rinsing. Ohyea i saw the pulverized limestone but it was like a powder...kinda worried me so I went with the pool sand....Anxiously waiting....
 
I don't think the pool filter sand is right... I'll see if I can do some digging and find a pic of the right stuff...
 
Okay, finally tracked down the thread with the pictures of the correct stuff (Ugh, I can't wait 'till we get our search function fixed!!!)

http://www.dfwmas.org/Forums/viewtopic.php?t=15394
 
FWIW, I've been a proponent of BB since 1992. Yes, we called it the Berlin method, lots of live rock and heavy skimming. Good LR performs the NRR you need in most cases. My first tank was a 200g. I had great results with both softies and hards (we called them hard corals back then before the yuppies renamed them LPS and SPS). Anyway, IMO, the BB is the easiest tank to care for. With good circulation, it is very easy to remove detritus and you don't have to worry about maintenence or crashes.. I've tried DSB's over the years and have always gone back to BB. Once you grow Coraline on the bottom, IMO, nothing looks better. Water quality is outstanding, ORP350-385 range, and little nitrates if any (small amounts can be removed by compounds) way easier than maintaing a DSB. Just my 2 cents. :wink:
 
I love my DSB and the fauna that it shelters, and allows me to have (like the sand sifting cuke). Not being a stony coral tank, I don't have to push insane amounts of flow, though. YMMV.
 
Here I am resurrecting old threads ....

I have a DSB and I love it.

I sometimes wonder if I went overboard and put in too much sand.

S.
 
Started two tank back in early February one SPS BB and DSB softie both with cured completely white LR. The DSB tank had about 80% coraline after 3 months. The DSB was existing for about 7 months and had bacteria. The BB tank has about 5-10% coraline at the moment and about 1-2% at the end of June.
 
All technical info aside I personally think the BEST option is a DSB in the sump or some other kind of remote DSB because lets face it.....its ugly in the DT for the most part. As for the DT go with a BB if possible but if you absolutely want a sand bed for aesthetics go with a 1"-2" sand bed and stir it up occasionally to prevent it from going septic.

My 2 cents
 
There is the other opinion that the reefer wants a tank that looks very realistic and have a wide range of living organisms in the tank (like me).
there are many snails, fish and crabs that need a sand bed to live in or forage from. Jaw-fish and sand sifting stars are really fun to watch, and the tiny worms and pods in the sand make great food for other fish. SPS heavy tanks with BB look amazing but you will loose some of the bio diversity that is in a natural tank or DSB.
Of course a sump/fuge counter acts this but who wants to be looking down there all day.
 
I love 3-4" sandbeds. Gives the tank character from all the critters and the powerheads constantly changing its shape. Not too mention Ive never had a trace of nitrates, and with a 18-20" cucumber my sandbed is always nice and white.
 
The deep sand bed can provide a lot of denitryfing bacteria which is extremely useful, another important factor is that some cool looking fish require a sand bed. On the other hand a deep sand bed can be hard to keep clean, and you will likely have to replace it at some point. A bare bottom tank which is what I ended up doing, is easier to keep clean imo, but you can't keep some fish, thinking about some pretty cool wrasses mainly but also gobies and blennies. Just because of the fish it was a hard decision for me to go bare bottom, but I think at the end I prefer it.
 
Top