Cyano and Phosphates

L

ldreefer

I've been having an issue with cyano and hair algae taking over my tank. I've tried everything to get rid of it. I run GFO, I do water changes, I've tried lights out for a few days and I've tried chemi clean. The chemi clean and lights out worked for a couple days and then it just comes back with a vengeance, so obviously somewhere somehow I must be adding phosphates into my system without knowing it. I finally got around to testing my RODI and it was reading .75-1.00 ppm phosphates, so I'm thinking that's my issue. It really doesn't make much sense though because I'm using a new BRS 3 stage RODI to make my topoff. Saltwater I get from DNA, but I know that's not the issue because two of my buddies get their saltwater from DNA too and they never have issues with any of this, but the get their topoff from their too and don't have issues, so the only thing I can imagine is it's coming from my RODI water which is reading .75-1.00 ppm like I said before.

I've had the RODI unit for 6 months or sohttp://www.bulkreefsupply.com/bulk-reverse-osmosis-filters-systems/reverse-osmosis-systems/brs-4-stage-value-ro-di-system-75gpd.html, but I've constantly had this issue with the cyano since I've been using the unit, so it's not that the filters are bad.

This is the unit I have:
http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/bulk-reverse-osmosis-filters-systems/
reverse-osmosis-systems/brs-4-stage-value-ro-di-system-75gpd.html

What do I do?
 
I have to ask are you sure your input and output lines are correct on the system? I would double check all lines to ensure they are correct if you have a line in a wrong spot you could be bypassing part or all of the system.
 
I don't have a TDS meter, so I haven't gotten to check that yet. For flow I'm running an MP40. It made a considerable difference. It actually lifted everything off of my sand bed and keeps the rocks clear of detritus, do I don't think flow is an issue. My skimmer is an ATI Bubblemaster 200. It pulls out good gunk, so I don't really think its a nutrient issue.

All of the lines are where they should be on the RODI unit.
 
ok, I agree then get a TDS meter and test your water from the unit, then test the tank. I tested my water flow in the tank with flake food and watched how it circulated if you have a dead spot it will start to settle there. I turkey bast my rocks once a week and have about 10 sand bed cleaners in my 90 long. Also check your over flow part of the refugium I have to suck out that part every other water change as it gets a build up from left overs. I also have a yellow tang and lawnmower blenny to deal with hair algae.
 
Yes it was brand new when I got it. Do you think that maybe the pressure isn't right going through it? I know sometimes depending on the pressure of water coming out of the faucet it may be ideal for the RODI system. Or maybe adding another stage to it and changing the filters just for good measure? Idk where to start. It's frustrating. I have been dealing with this for a while now and it's getting on my last nerve.

Also the phosphates in my tank read 0 ppm constantly, but I've read that is the case a lot of the time since the cyano and algae are using up the phosphates before you can test them.
 
@ldreefer wrote:
Also the phosphates in my tank read 0 ppm constantly said:
My phosphates in my DT read zero when I had cyano bad. I was sure my phos checker was bad, but then I tested my QT that gets regular feedings and it tested .04. For me, the addition of a BRS dual reactor running GFO and Carbon wipped out my cyano and 90% of my GHA in about a week. If GFO didn't work for you, then I would bet you must be adding more phosphates to the tank than the GFO can keep up with.

Are you flushing your RODI or dumping the first gallon of water after it is turned on? I have a TDS and test my RODI water ever time I make a new batch. When I first turn it on, I come back and test the TDS of the first 1/2 gallon of water it made and I get 10 TDS. I dump that and check again 5 minutes later. I usually have to repeat this a few times, dumping about the first 1.5g before TDS gets down to 1.
Click to expand...
 
I have tested my Nitrates and they are zero as well, which is why I don't think it's a nutrient issue.

As for dumping the first gallon or so, no I am not doing that. I wasn't aware that needed to be done sometimes. Usually I run 5 gallons at a time. I put the line in the jug, turn the water on, let it fill up and then put my ATO in it. I've never flushed it or let it run for a gallon or so before actually running water.
 
In my experience cyno has 2 primary causes. 1. Bad Salt mix. 2. Bad R/O.
Hair algae cause. Phosphate. Try different or less food. Check Alk. Keep using GFO and consider dosing a bacteria or vodka to help with PHO4 removal.

Good luck.

Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk 2
 
Any suggestions on what kind of bacteria to dose? What about that company from France that the club has samples of? Prodibio I think is what it was called?

I've considered dosing bacteria before.
 
Definately let your RO system run several minutes & toss the water. Then your R/O water should be closer to 0 TDS.
I also found that when I have my LEDs on more than 8 hours I get some cyano. Maybe you need to run your lights less.
 
I have a TDS meter you can borrow if you need one. I doubt i'm too far from you in Plano near NDT and Parker.

shoot me a PM if interested
 
I have the deluxe BRS system with 2 inline TDS meters. One is set up coming out of the RO unit and the other after the DI unit. When I start making water I see a slight spike in TDS coming out of the RO unit, but I never see anything but 0 TDS coming out of the DI unit. That being said its always a good practice to purge your system, but I don't think you need to run it for more than a few minutes before you start collecting the good water. Have you seen you DI resin color change. The BRS DI resin goes from blue to brown as it is exhausted. I think you need at least 55# min water pressure for the RO membrane to work.

I used to have nitrate and phosphate issues before I switched to bio pellets. Now both have been undetectable for 9 months. I have had really good luck running them.
 
Sorry. 45# is not anywhere near ideal. A booster pump,is recommended for less than 50#. BRS states that they have seen units operate below 50#, but not efficiently. Optimum is >65#. I notice that the TDS coming out of my RO unit starts to creep up when my filters are operating at <60#. When they get to 55# they are usually spent and TDS coming out of them is about 4. Keep in mind that coming out of the DI unit TDS is still 0.

Marc knows a ton about RO/DI. I would ask him to be sure.
 
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